CHAPTER NINE
LEATHER AND SHOEMAKING TERMS
Assembling. Includes the following operations: tacking the insole to the last, putting in the box and counter of the shoe, and putting the upper of the shoe on the last.
Backstay. A term used to denote a strip of leather covering and strengthening the back seam of a shoe. English backstay means the strip of leather that meets the quarters on each side and is sewed to them, forming the lower part of the shoe. California backstay is a term applied to piping caught in the back seam.
Back Strap. The strap by which the shoe is pulled on the foot.
Bal. An abbreviation of the word “Balmoral” and means either men’s, women’s, or children’s front lace shoe of medium height, as distinguished from one that is adjusted to the ankle by buttons, buckles, rubber goring, etc.
Ball. Refers to the ball of the foot—the fleshy part of the bottom of the foot, back of the toes.
Beading. Means folding in the edges of the upper leather instead of leaving them raw, or wheeling any impression around the sole to the heel. It is called seat wheeling in many shoe factory rooms.
Beating Out. The same as leveling. It is the term used in turn-shoe work.
Bellows Tongue. A broad tongue sewed to the sides of the top, seen in waterproof and some working shoes.
Belting. The term applied to the usual back tanned cowhide, used in various thicknesses for machinery belts.