Soles and Sole Leather. Name applied to pieces of leather of various thickness on the bottom of a shoe, usually made from heavy hides of leather. There are many varieties of soles: a “full-double” sole has two thicknesses of leather extending clear back to the heel; “half-double” sole is a full outer sole, with slip extending back to shank; single sole is self-defining; “tap” is a half sole.
Sole Laying. Sole laying is the operation of laying the outsole.
Sorting. The process of selecting and sorting soles, so that they may be put up in different qualities.
Spewing. Shoes in stock sometimes become coated with a grayish white, powdery substance, that looks like mildew. This formation on leather that is not fully seasoned is called spewing, and the deposit is called bloom. It can readily be wiped off, and does not indicate any serious defect or trouble with the leather. It is not a mildew or growth, but apparently an exudation of materials used in tanning.
Splits. A name applied to split leather, that is, two or more parts of the hide.
Spring Heel. Consists of one or more lifts used between the outsole and upper. It is seen mostly in children’s shoes and is often called wedge heel. It can also be put on outside instead of under the outsole.
Stamping. The operation of putting size and width on the inside of the shoe. Parts of the uppers are often stamped or marked so that the whole are put together properly in the stitching room.
Stay. The name given to any piece of leather put in the upper to strengthen it or to strengthen a seam.
Stamping Bottoms. The operation of stamping name on bottom. It is often performed in finishing rooms.