CHAPTER I
FIBERS
PAGE
Animal Fibers—Wool, Silk, Mohair. Vegetable—Cotton, Flax,Jute, Hemp. Mineral—Asbestos, Tinsel, Metallic. RemanufacturedMaterial—Noils, Mungo, Shoddy, Extract, andFlocks. Artificial Fibers—Spun Glass, Artificial Silk, SlagWool. Structure of Wool. Characteristics of Wool. Classificationof Wool. Carpet and Knitting Wools. Sheep Shearing.Variation in Weight of Fleeces. Shipping the Fleeces. Valueof Wool Business. Saxony and Silesian Wool, Australian Wool,Port Philip Wool, Sydney Wool, Adelaide Wool, Van Woolfrom Tasmania, New Zealand Wool, Cape Wools, Wools fromSouth America, Russian Wool, Great Britain Wools, Lincoln,Leicester, Southdown, Shropshire; Cashmere Wools, Norfolkdownand Suffolkdown Wools, Cheviot Wool, Welsh Wools,Shetland Wools, Irish Wools, Mohair, Alpaca Wool. How Woolis Marketed[1]
CHAPTER II
WOOL SORTING
Sorting. Classing Grades of Wool. Merino Wool. Differencebetween Lamb’s and Sheep’s Wool. Pulled Wool. Delaine Wool.Wool Sorter. Wool Washing, Wool Drying, Oiling. Burringand Carbonizing. Bur Picker, Blending[16]
CHAPTER III
WOOL SUBSTITUTES AND WASTE PRODUCTS
Wool Substitutes and Waste Remanufactured—Noils, Shoddy, andMungo. Methods of Producing Shoddy and Mungo—Dusting,Sorting, Seaming, Oiling, Grinding. Extract Wool. Flocks[32]
CHAPTER IV
WORSTED YARN
Carding, Combing. Worsted Tops—Gill Boxes. Different methodsof Spinning—Bradford or English System, French System.Structure of Worsted Yarn. Uses of Worsted Yarn. Countsof Worsted Yarn[39]
CHAPTER V
WOOLEN YARN
Operations in Producing Woolen Yarn—Washing, Carding, Spinning,Mule Spinning. Counts of Woolen Yarn. Uses of Woolen Yarn[50]
CHAPTER VI
WEAVING
Preparatory to Weaving—Warp. Weaving—Weaving Processes,Classes of Weave—Plain or Homespun Weave, Twill, SatinWeaves, Figure Weaving (Jacquard apparatus), Double Cloth,Pile Weaving, Gauze Weaving, Lappet Weaving[53]
CHAPTER VII
DYEING AND FINISHING
Dyeing. Wool Dyeing, Piece Dyed, Cross Dyed, Yarn Dyed. Style—Designing,Finishing, Perching, Burling, Mending, Fulling,Crabbing, Tentering, Napping, Pressing. Theories of Coloringin Textile Design. Various Methods of Employing FancyShades. Adulteration[65]
CHAPTER VIII
WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS
Albatross, Alpaca, Corded Alpaca, Angora, Astrakhan, Bandanna,Beaver (Fur Beaver), Bedford Cord, Beige, Bindings, Bombazine,Bottany, Boucle, Broadcloth, Bunting, Caniche, Cashmere,Cashmere Double, Cassimere, Castor, Challis, Cheviot (Diagonalor Chevron), Chinchilla, Chudah, Corduroy, Côte Cheval,Coupure, Covert, Delaine, Doeskin, Drap d’Été, Empress Cloth,Épingline, Etamine, Felt, Flannel, Dress Flannel, French Flannel,Shaker Flannel, Indigo Blue, Mackinaw, Navy TwilledFlannel, Silk Warp, Baby Flannel. Florentine, Foule, Frieze,Gloria, Granada, Grenadine, Henrietta Cloth, Homespun, HopSacking, Jeans, Kersey, Kerseymere, Linsey Woolsey, Melrose,Melton, Meltonette, Merino, Mohair Brilliantine, Montagnac,Orleans, Panama Cloth, Prunella, Sacking, Sanglier,Sebastopol, Serge, Shoddy, Sicilian, Sultane, Tamise, Tartans,Thibet, Tricot, Tweed, Veiling, Venetian, Vigogne (Vicuña),Vigoureux, Voiles, Whipcord, Worsted Diagonals, Zephyr, Zibeline[83]
CHAPTER IX
COTTON
Rough Peruvian, East Indian, Egyptian, Sea Island. AmericanCrop—Planting, Picking, Ginning—Roller Gins, Saw Gins.Cotton Gin. Information on the Leading Growths of Cotton.Grades—Full Grades, Half Grades, Quarter Grades. Varieties—SeaIsland (selected), Sea Island (ordinary), Florida SeaIsland, Georgia, Egyptian, Peeler, Orleans or Gulf Upland, Texas[105]
CHAPTER X
MANUFACTURE OF COTTON YARN
Picker Room, Carding Machine, Combing, Drawing. Flyer Frames—IntermediateFrame, Roving Frame, Fine or Jack FrameSpinning—Mule Spinning, Ring Spinning[125]
CHAPTER XI
THREAD AND COTTON FINISHING
Manufacturing Processes. Thread Numbers. Sizing. Cotton Finishing—Bleaching,Starching, Calendering, Mercerizing. Characteristicsof fine Cotton Cloth[138]
CHAPTER XII
KNITTING
Knitting Machines. Stripe Knitting, Knitting Cotton, KnittingSilk, Hosiery Manufacture, Finishing Process[153]
CHAPTER XIII
LACE
Needlepoint Lace. Pillow Lace. Lace Terms Defined[164]
CHAPTER XIV
COTTON FABRICS
Albatross, Awning, Batiste, Bourrette, Bedford Cord, Buckram, Calico,Cambric, Canvas, Chambray, Cheesecloth, Chiné, Chintz, CottonFlannel, Crash, Crêpe, Crepon, Cretonne, Crinoline, Damask,Denim, Diaper, Dimity, Domet, Duck, Drill, Eolienne, Etamine,Flannelette, Fustian, Galatea Cloth, Gauze, Gingham, ItalianCloth, Jaconet, Khaki, Lawn, Lingerie, Linon, Long Cloth, Madras,Moreen, Mull, Mummy, Muslin, Nainsook, Organdie, Osnaburg,Percale, Percaline, Piqué, Poplin, Plumetis, Rep, Sateen,Scrim, Silesia, Souffle, Swiss, Tape, Tarletan, Terry Cloth, Zephyr Gingham[173]
CHAPTER XV
FLAX
Physical Structure. Uses. Mechanical Processes—Crushing orBeating, Breaking, Scutching, Hackling, Bleaching. Characteristicsof Good Linen, Notes on Table Linen[193]
CHAPTER XVI
HEMP
Bast Fibers, Sisal Hemp, Manila Hemp, Ramie, Jute[199]
CHAPTER XVII
SILK
Cocoons. Raw Silk. Silk-producing Countries—China, Japan,Italy, Southern France, Greece, Turkey, Western Asia. Throwing.Thrown Silk—Tram, Crêpe Yarn. Embroidery Silk.Sewing Silk. Silk Waste, Spun Silk, Floss Silk. Ribbons, SilkThread, Silk Cord. Dyeing Yarns. Silk Dyeing. LogwoodBlack Silk Dyeing—(1) Boiling Off, (2) Mordanting, (3) BlueBottoming, (4) “Weighting” Bath, (5) Mordanting, (6) Dyeing.Colored Silks. Mixed Silk Fabrics. Ribbons, Velvets, Printing,Finishing, Waterproofing[203]
CHAPTER XVIII
PRINCIPAL SILK FABRICS
Alma, Barège, Bengaline, Berber, Brocade, Brocatel, Bombazine,Chenille, Chiffon, China Silk, Crêpe, Crêpe de Chine, Eolienne,Foulard, Glacé, India Silk, Japanese Silk, Jersey Cloth, Meteor,Moire, Mozambique, Organzine, Panne, Peau de Soie, Plush,Pongee, Popeline, Poplin, Figured Poplin, Terry Poplin, Sarsenet,Satin, Soleil, Taffeta, Tulle, Velour, Velvet, Velveteen, TabbyVelvet, Voile[219]
CHAPTER XIX
ARTIFICIAL SILK
Silk Cotton, Artificial Silk, Tests[230]
CHAPTER XX
SUBSTITUTES FOR COTTON
Wool Pulp, Ramie, Pineapple Fibers, Spun Glass, MetallicThreads, Slag Wool, Asbestos[232]
APPENDIX
Determining Style of Weave. Tests for Strength and Elasticity.Determining Count of Warp and Filling, Shrinkage, Weight.Tests for Constituents of Warp and Filling, for Vegetable andAnimal Fibers. Acid Test. Cotton Distinguished from Linen,Silk from Wool, Artificial Silk from Silk. Test for Shoddy. Determinationof Dressing. Test for Permanence of Dyes[235]
History of Textiles. History of the Organization of Textile Industries.History of Manufacturing. History of Lace[245]
EXPERIMENTS
Experiments 1 to 62[267]
Sources of Supply[319]
Index[323]

TEXTILES

CHAPTER I

FIBERS

All the materials used in the manufacture of clothing are called textiles and are made of either long or short fibers. These fibers can be made into a continuous thread. When two different sets of threads are interlaced, the resulting product is called cloth.

The value of any fiber for textile purposes depends entirely upon the possession of such qualities as firmness, length, curl, softness, elasticity, etc., which adapt it for spinning. The number of fibers that possess these qualities is small, and may be classified as follows:

Animal Fibers: Wool, Silk, Mohair.

Vegetable Fibers: Cotton, Flax, Jute, Hemp, etc.