Bedford Cord. A fine woolen fabric, with fine recesses running with the piece, and extensively used for ladies’ dress goods. An all wool cloth of close texture for gentlemen’s clothing. The recesses may also be made with fine cotton yarn hidden in the wool filling.
Beige. Cloth of undyed or natural wool. The name is the French word for “natural.”
Bindings. A species of narrow fabric of silk, worsted or cotton, for binding the edges of garments, the bottom of dress skirts, etc.
Bombazine. A twilled fabric of which the warp is silk and the filling is worsted.
Bottany. A term applied to worsted yarns made from bottany wool. It is considered the finest of all worsted yarns, and is used for fine fabrics of close texture.
Boucle. Curled hair or wool woven in any cloth in such a way as to show the curl makes boucle. The word is French for curl.
Broadcloth. Broadcloth is a soft, closely woven material with a satin finish. The best qualities are called satin broadcloth.
The origin of broadcloth dates back to early times, the first historical mention of it being made in 1641. In America, among the first products manufactured by the colonial woolen mills were black and colored broadcloths, and these (with satinets) formed the distinctive character of American woolen fabrics at that time. They were honestly made of pure, fine-fibered Saxony wool, and sold as high as $6.50 per yard.
The warp and filling are made of carded wool so that the web (cloth) will shrink or full evenly. The stock is generally dyed in the raw state when used for men’s wear. When taken from the loom it does not have the smooth, lustrous appearance which is its distinctive feature. It is rough and dull colored, with the threads showing plainly. To improve its appearance it is first subjected to the action of the fulling mill, with the result that the fibers of the warp and weft become entangled to such an extent that the cloth never unravels. Then the cloth is slightly napped and sheared down close, in order to produce a smooth, even surface. Next it is successively wetted, steamed, calendered, and hot pressed for the purpose of bringing out the luster. It is commonly twill woven, but is sometimes plain, finished with a slightly napped and lustrous face. It must have a bright, beaver finish, and be close and felty in the weave.
The broadcloth used for women’s clothing is of a lighter weight and is generally piece dyed. It is used for ladies’ suits, coats, and gentlemen’s evening dress suits, frock coats, and tuxedos. It is expensive; prices range from $1.75 to $3.50 per yard in ladies’ broadcloth, and higher for men. The price depends on the quality of wool used, and uniformity of the nap and perfection of the finish.