The distinguishing feature of cheviot, whatever the grade of cloth, is the finish, of which there are two kinds. One is known as the “rough” finish, and the other as the “close” finish. Real cheviot is a rough-finished fabric, composed of a strong, coarse wool and fulled to a considerable degree. The process of finishing cheviot is simple, and practically the same methods are followed for both the “rough” and the “close” styles. On leaving the loom the cloth is first washed in soap and water to remove any dirt or other foreign matter it may contain. It is then fulled, which consists in shrinking the cloth both in length and breadth, thus rendering the texture heavier and denser. Next it is “gigged” or napped. This is accomplished by passing the face of the matted cloth against a cylinder covered with sharp pointed teasels which draw out the fibers from the yarn. This operation is continued until a nap more or less dense is raised over the entire surface.
From the gig the cloth is taken to the shearing machine, the revolving blades of which cut the long, irregular nap down to a uniform level. Sometimes the style of finish called for is that approaching a threadbare cassimere, and in this case great care is necessary to prevent the blades from cutting the yarn. In the rough finish the nap, although sparingly raised, is comparatively long. Having been napped and sheared, the cloth is pressed and carefully examined for defects, then brushed, pressed, and highly steamed. When measured, rolled, and steamed, it is ready for market, and is used mostly for ladies’ and gentlemen’s suitings. The pattern and design are light stripes and checks of small dimensions. Cheviot is a name given to many materials used for suiting.
Chinchilla. Heavy coating with rough wavy face. The name is Spanish for a fur-bearing animal of the mink species.
Chudah. Applied to billiard cloth; relates to color. Chudah is the Hindoo name of a bright green cloth.
Corduroy. Heavy corded cotton material used for servants’ livery. The name is from the French Corde du Roi—king’s cords.
Côte Cheval. In France corded cloth for riding costumes, such as Bedford cord, is called côte cheval, the application being through cheval, horse; côte, ribbed or lined.
Coupure. Coupure is French for cut through. Coupure or cut cashmere is a cashmere weave showing lines cut through the twills lengthwise of the piece.
Covert. Heavy twilled cloth in natural undyed shades, used in England for men’s overcoats worn while riding to covert in fox hunting.
Delaine. From the French “of wool”; applies to the most primitive weave of plain wool yarn. Thirty years ago delaine was the staple dress goods stock. It was made in solid colors.
Diagonal Cheviot. Same as cheviot, only in the weaving the pattern is marked by zigzag lines or stripes.