I have not yet referred to the theatrical performances now going on here, with a company from one of the Rio theatres, which draws crowded houses in a building almost as large as Covent Garden. It is in a very improvised state, but sufficiently got up to answer the purpose; and in a climate like this external appearances are not much thought of provided there is enough ventilation, which is certainly the case in the San Paulo Theatre. A stranger cannot help feeling surprised on entering to see so large a place, having three tiers of boxes, filled chiefly by well-dressed ladies, and a gallery for what we term the “gods,” the gentlemen being in the pit, which holds fully 500 people and was quite crowded. Each one has what we call a stall, but here cane seats, with backs, divided by arms, so that you are very comfortably seated. The large attendance is explained by the circumstance of the city being dependent on casual performances, and of course everybody is anxious to take advantage of the opportunity. There is no regular company attached to the theatre, but the attendance, appearance, and dress of the ladies of San Paulo on these occasions will compare favourably with what is presented in any city of South America. As to the performance, it is usually a compilation from some French rubbishy novel; but the acting is tolerably good, and the audience attentive, sitting patiently for the five or six hours commonly occupied by the piece—a very great objection.
To-day—March 16—is the first of term at the College, where a strong muster of students took place at an early hour of the morning, and I believe that some of the ceremonials that occur on such occasions at Oxford and Cambridge also prevail here. The presence of nearly a thousand students gives a tone of animation to the old city, and is a set-off to the constant creaking of waggon wheels and the tinkling of bells of mules, which indicate its commercial character. Brazil is chiefly indebted to this city for a swarm of lawyers, many of whom have been, and continue to be, distinguished men, but it would be far better for the country if many of them were brought up to agricultural or commercial pursuits.
In the seaport towns the Portuguese continue to act as the chief traders, but in the interior the latter are mostly Brazilians. There is now the army, the navy, and the engineering pursuits open to the youth of Brazil, and I have no doubt they will by degrees take up positions more beneficial to their country than that of mere disputants, or lawyers, which characters are sadly too numerous.
Took an early ride to the north of San Paulo on the 17th, from whence there was a fine view of an extensive valley, where the mist was rising and floating away to the distant hills on the other side. We met troops of mules coming in with their drivers in their picturesque coloured ponchos, and also a group of women approaching the city. Skirting a wood to the left, through some pretty looking scenery, we came upon the new Santos road, made a few years back at great expense; and a most admirable road it is, but, it appears, not much used since the railway was opened, passing through a most admirable road it is, but it appears, not much used since the railway was opened, passing through a poor, uncultivated country. If the large amount expended on this road had been laid out at the terminus of the line at Jundiahy, towards the coffee producing districts, it might have been of much greater importance to the Province. Odd enough, it was made in opposition to the railway, although it must have been evident that the latter would take a large portion of the traffic, and that that by mules from San Paulo to Santos would be greatly reduced. The projectors, who were chiefly large coffee growers of the Province, might have supposed a good road to Santos would keep a check on the railway as to charges of transit, and be used in case of any partial stoppage of the railway; but unfortunately the heavy rains which shut up the latter for a time also injured the common road, rendering it impassable in places.
Before leaving the City of San Paulo, where I have spent several pleasant weeks, I went over what is called the House of Correction, but is in fact a criminal reformatory for the Province and admirably managed. The building is in a fine open space near the railway station, enclosed on a large square plot of ground, surrounded by high walls, inside which are gardens beautifully laid out, and kept in order by the inmates. The main portion of the building converges into a central point by means of arched roofs, lighted from the top, the cells abutting on the corridors which lead thereto. Here there is also a circular raised stone altar, on which mass is performed, and heard in all the cells through an open iron grating with which each is provided. The workshops are apart, leading off the garden, and consist of various trades suited to the acquirements of the criminals; there being also a school, where they are taught to read and write. They come to these workshops from the main building in groups, each individual having a mark or number to distinguish him by, and they are accompanied by a guard. The workshops have doors with open gratings, but secured by a strong lock and key, a sentinel doing duty during the time the men are occupied at labour, with a time master seated in a kind of elevated pulpit to see that the work allotted to every individual be properly done. In approaching or leaving the workshops the men all walk with folded arms, and the whole being on the silent system of punishment, no one is allowed to speak, except, I conclude, when some question has to be asked through the warder or other officer of the establishment, the discipline of which is admirably maintained. The inmates are about 120 in number, most of them convicted of serious crimes; they have here a dejected look, but I believe, on the whole, the system is found to be a very efficacious one, and does really lead to reformation of character. No female criminals are admitted, but I understand a ward is to be built for them. We were conducted over the establishment by the Governor, a retired colonel in the army, accompanied by Senhor Leite Moraes, a distinguished member of the Provincial Assembly. Much attention was shown us, and some refreshment was provided for us in the Governor's room. Near to the reformatory, abutting on the railway station, are the public gardens of San Paulo, on which a good deal of money has been spent. They are well laid-out, but not kept in order, one of the chronic defects of these kind of places in South America generally.
SAN PAULO TO SANTOS AND RIO DE JANEIRO.
We finally left San Paulo after a very agreeable visit, on the 25th of March, by the 9.30 train for Santos, with a tolerable number of passengers, and some friends who kindly accompanied us on our journey. Between San Paulo and San Bernardo station, a distance of about ten miles, the road is tolerably level, and the country more or less open, though uncultivated save in small plots. At this station I got upon the engine with Mr. Fox, and came upon sharp curves and many cuttings until we reached Rio Grande Station, after which, for a distance of seven miles, the works are very heavy, some of the inclines being one in fifty and one in sixty. Nothing near but dense forests, without a human habitation to be seen. Approaching the top of the Serra, it appeared completely shut in by the range of mountains in front of us, the road winding and twisting till we suddenly reached the small platform, whence the descent of the mountain begins, and a glorious prospect opens out of the valley below, with the sea in the distance; yet not without a vague feeling of anxiety as to the novel position in which we find ourselves placed. I was allowed to ride on the break again, and it is certainly a wonderful sight, whilst being slowly let down the lifts which I have before described. The day was light and the atmosphere clear, the light and shade on the dense mass of foliage with which the mountains are clothed appearing to great advantage, like a huge carpet spread over the face of nature. It is decidedly worth a visit from Europe to go over the railway, and few can help wondering how it was ever made, under what must have appeared almost insurmountable difficulties in such a country and such a climate; the pioneers obliged to live in the forests and often short of the necessaries of life. Without traversing the line it is impossible to form any idea of the magnitude of the undertaking, or how the boilers and machinery for the stationary engines were dragged up the mountains, almost without a track, much less a road, for a total height of 2,600 feet above the level of the sea. The Paulistos ought to be proud of their railway, and Englishmen of the skill and endurance of their countrymen in making it; at the same time, it cannot be denied that many errors of construction have been committed, and even at the present moment the working power of the line is crippled for want of locomotives, besides which those on the metals are not adapted to it, as I have previously explained. Red-tapery and official conceit have produced the same result here as in other places, to give way eventually to a practical common sense view of things; not without entailing, however, losses upon the unfortunate shareholders. The line being again open throughout, a considerable arrear of traffic is waiting to come down from Jundiahy, which will severely tax the insufficient rolling stock and locomotive power at the disposal of the manager; but at all events it is satisfactory to know that the traffic is likely to be a steady one, with a considerable future prospect when once its requirements are fairly met by the company.
We reached the foot of the Serra before noon, and at one o'clock we were at Santos station, the whole distance from San Paulo to Santos being 48⅞ miles; rather a long time on the way, but the Serra itself takes an hour, and there are several stoppages at the stations. Some time is also occupied in waiting at the foot of the Serra for the second portion of the train (it is divided into three carriages each lift) to come down and join before proceeding forward. This process of course takes place both ways. Contrast this system, however, with that of pack mules, and what an immense stride does it represent in the means of transit and communication.
Santos was cooler than when we went there before, and the day was fine and bright. The steamer did not sail until four o'clock, so we strolled about and got some dinner. The departure was punctual, and sailing down the river to the bar the surrounding scenery, tinged by the glowing afternoon sun, gave everything a very cheerful, though grandly picturesque aspect. The friends who had kindly accompanied us from San Paulo here left us in a boat, to land at the bar, which is a favourite watering place, and where many nice cottages are built. We steamed on, passed the small fort, and were soon in the open Atlantic, the boat dancing about more than was agreeable to some of the passengers, who soon disappeared below. The Santa Maria is a powerful boat, steaming her twelve knots an hour, with very good accommodation; but the wind and sea being against us, we did not get into Rio harbour before noon the next day, taking 20 hours for a distance of about 180 miles.