Brazil and the River Plate in 1868

by William Hadfield

The next stage was Barboza, where we came up with another diligence, also from Petropolis, with a party, having a band of music outside, and Portuguese and Brazilian flags flying. They kept ahead of us, but at the last stage, Ponto Americano, a most romantic spot, we started almost together, our companion still keeping the lead, at a strong gallop, which our coachman imitated, and it was anything but an agreeable race into Juiz de Fora, to say nothing of the dust we had to take up in the wake of the front diligence. Nothing could be more beautiful than the scenery for the last stages, coffee and Indian corn plantations succeeded each other, mingled with virgin forests, grazing ground, waterfalls in the distance, entire trees covered with purple and yellow flowers, a perfect galaxy of tropical vegetation in its most attractive forms. The evening was pleasantly cool,—so cool as to cause one to button up his coat, and there was a sensation of freshness in the air like that of an autumn evening at home.

As the two coaches approached Juiz de Fora a large number of its residents turned out to see the arrival, which I believe was that of some new settlers, who must have been gratified with their reception. We drove on to the coach station, where I found that the gentleman I was anxious to see had gone to his fazenda that morning, some leagues distant; so I determined to await his return and went to a small hotel close to, called the “Union,” where I made myself as comfortable as the limited accommodation would permit.

Residence of Senhor Lage.

Juiz de Fora is pleasantly situated on an elevated plateau, some 2,600 feet above the level of the sea, with a background of fine cultivated hills and a very picturesque waterfall. The originator and director of the flourishing company “Uniao e Industria” has built a magnificent house on an elevated spot which overlooks the whole valley, and his grounds are beautifully laid out with every species of tree to be found in Brazil, as well as those brought from other countries. There are ornamental waters, with swans, rare specimens of water fowl, and numbers of valuable birds, fowls, monkeys,—in fact, a little Zoological Garden of itself. Everything in the establishment was in keeping, evincing the good taste of the owner and the liberal manner in which he expends his large fortune. I had also the opportunity of going over a new building called the School of Agriculture, where modern agricultural implements are to be collected, as well as samples of live stock to improve the breed of cattle. There is a capital English stallion, two years old, descended from the celebrated Stockwell, brought out from England at great expense; another one of Norman breed, besides brood mares, bulls, Alderney cows—in short, the nucleus of a respectable cattle show, which it is intended to become, and the Emperor has announced his intention to visit the place in June next, though it will take some time to make it complete and in a state of efficiency. An intelligent Swiss gentleman presides over the School of Agriculture, and an English groom is very proud, as he may well be, of the silky coat and the healthy appearance of the descendant of Stockwell.

There is a nice little German colony at Juiz de Fora, mostly artisans in the company's employ, who live in very snug cottages, with little gardens attached to them, the women keeping cows, selling milk, &c. A death had occurred the day I was there, and the funeral was attended by all the elders of the colony, men and women, dressed in their best clothes, forming a very interesting group. The company employ some 3,000 mules in the traffic of their line, the breakers of them, as well as the coach drivers, being Germans. Mr. Treloar, jun., arrived from Rio with his wife and family during my stay here, leaving the next day with a large troop of mules, on a seven days' journey up to the mines.

Having seen all of interest in Juiz de Fora, I started on Thursday, the 9th of April, to return to Entre Rios, and thence on by the same “Uniao e Industria” road to Petropolis, a total distance of about 107 miles. I found the second half of the road as interesting as the first half I had gone over—all in the same perfect state, some parts between Entre Rios and Petropolis passing through splendid mountain scenery. Near Entre Rios the river is crossed by a very fine iron bridge. We reached Petropolis at dusk, amidst a shower of rain, the first I had met with on the whole journey, during which the weather was remarkably fine and cool in the higher ranges of the road, though hot and dusty on the level parts. For nearly the whole fifty miles the road winds by the bed of a rapid mountain stream, descending from the mountainous district about Petropolis, going to swell the river of which it is the source, forming a succession of cascades, the noise of whose waters makes “music to the ear,” enhancing the grandeur of the scenery through which it passes as well as cooling the atmosphere.

I should not neglect to mention the extensive cart traffic over the road, which constitutes the real income of the company, and has enabled it to pay the large dividend of 10 to 14 per cent. These carts are all of one pattern, with names and numbers on them, drawn generally by five mules, with a spare one attached. We were constantly meeting them going up and down, and whether they have got more into the way of it, or the mules are now better trained, we met with no such inconveniences as Mr. Hinchcliffe describes in his book, though the windings and turnings of the road are often of such a nature as to require a “bright look out,” and the use of a shrill whistle—the horn being only sounded on approaching the end of the journey. By means of the rail and coach, Rio morning papers are delivered at Juiz de Fora, a distance of 170 miles by rail and road, the same evening. Formerly it required a week to communicate between the two places. A large quantity of stone is collected along the road to keep it in order, and at certain distances are men breaking them in the most old fashioned manner possible. They are chiefly Portuguese immigrants.

I had not been at Petropolis for twenty years, during which time there has been a large increase of building and population, but I was sorry to learn that this prosperity is likely to be evanescent, in consequence of the soil suitable for cultivation by the German colonists being worn out, and still more by the Dom Pedro II. Railway turning the stream of traffic, which previously to its opening to Entre Rios had continued to flow from the mines through Petropolis and down the splendid mountain road, conveying goods and passengers to the Mauá Railway, and thence by steamer to Rio. Of course, the railway from Entre Rios to Rio de Janeiro, though longer as regards mileage, is quicker and more direct, with a saving in expense to travellers, even if produce and merchandise were conveyed at equal rates by the two roads, but it must be the interest of the country to keep both the roads open, as, in the case of accidental stoppage, the Petropolis one is always available. It is not unlikely that terms will be come to by the two companies so as to prevent injurious competition, as the country has had to pay large sums of money for the installation and maintenance of both roads.

I remained over Sunday at Petropolis, but it turned out a very wet day, and I was not able to go about much, or to take advantage of the splendid view there is from the top of the mountain down to the Bay of Rio de Janeiro. We started at 6.30 on Monday morning in a carriage with four mules, and descended amidst heavy rain and a dense mist, so that none of the beauties of the locality were visible. At the foot of the Serra, the railway train was waiting, and we soon reached the place of embarkation by steamer, arriving at Rio about 10.30, after a week's absence, during which I have acquired a better knowledge of the progress and resources of this part of the country than any other means of information could have supplied. As regards the great internal road on which I have dwelt so much, it is decidedly one of the marvels of Brazil.