My views at that time were sanguine as to the progress of these River Plate countries, but they have been more than realised, notwithstanding political and other drawbacks. Suffice it to say that Buenos Ayres has nearly doubled in size since I was last here, and, although no public census that I am aware of has ever been taken, the population of the city and environs must almost have augmented in the same ratio. The difficulties of the roadstead remain, but a forest of masts, extending for many miles in the outer and inner roads, together with a considerable number of steamers (the latter particularly in the inner roads) meets the eye, and two piers, or moles, have been erected, one exclusively used for Custom House purposes, the other for boats and passengers, but a large portion of the traffic is still carried on by the carts which go alongside the boats with cargo or to take it away. Landing at the mole, a busy scene presents itself in the conveyance of passengers' luggage, which is taken charge of by the peons or porters, and carried for examination to the little depot at the entrance to the mole. Afterwards it is allowed to proceed in carts or carriages to its destination.
Being built in squares, the increase of the city is not very apparent until you get fairly into it; but the numerous two or three-storied houses, the large new hotels, the fine shops and warehouses, and the great movement in the street, all indicate a thriving place of business, which Buenos Ayres unquestionably is. Most of the streets running direct from the river are now three miles in length, and they cover an equal breadth, so it is easy to judge the extent of the ground covered; besides which, very many handsome quintas, or country houses, are to be seen in every direction outside the city. The streets generally are badly paved, and make very rough work for carts and carriages passing over them, but these manage to get along with considerable wear and tear of wheels and springs, as well as horses' feet, which, however, appear to be quite a secondary consideration. After the well-paved streets of Rio de Janeiro, both Monte Video and Buenos Ayres cut a very poor figure; but the worst feature is the absence of sewerage, and the refuse of the town is at times very offensive to the olfactory nerves, and destroys the appellative “good airs,” which is otherwise a characteristic of the place under ordinary circumstances, or as nature intended it to be. The inhabitants seem to have had a wretched municipal system; but for this there is no reason why the city should not be well drained, well paved, as well as properly lighted with gas, which latter is now the case.
Strangers have a choice of really very large and commodious hotels, and there are boarding and lodging houses of various kinds, but at seasons accommodation in them is very difficult to obtain, such is the constant increase of demand by visitors as well as by permanent residents; in fact, the requirements of the population are constantly overtaking the facilities of the city, and there appears to be no reasonable limit to its extension north, south, and west, the river facing eastward. The chief increase, however, has been westward, or in a straight line from the river frontage into the country. Owing to the necessities of an augmenting population, the price of building land in or near the city has been driven up to a very high figure, and rents, as a matter of course, are excessive. Increased population has been followed by enhanced luxury, which manifests itself in the style of architecture, in the splendid shops, in the number of private carriages as well as those for hire, but naturally this has been attended by an inflated expenditure. Living in Buenos Ayres is now quite as expensive as in London or Paris; perhaps more so as regards luxuries, the import duties on which are very heavy. Generally, Buenos Ayres is a dear place to live in. Amongst other new buildings is the large theatre called Colon, and a Music-hall, the latter erected by private subscription. It is lofty and light, tastefully decorated, and I believe very well filled when concerts are held there, being also occasionally used for dinners.
The busiest part of the city, commercially speaking, is down by the Custom House and on to the Boca, the latter the rendezvous of lighters conveying produce to the ships in the outer roads, as well as of small steamers bound up river, and I understand that 300 lighters are now engaged in this work, many of them of good size and decked over. It is in contemplation to deepen and enlarge the Riachuelo, as the stream alluded to is called, and a most useful work it will be, as it is almost the mainstay of the port. At the other extremity of the city, which borders on the Northern Railway, washing of clothes is carried on among the willow trees which border the river; it is quite a sight on a fine sunny day. On the high ground about and beyond the Retiro, numerous handsome villas have been erected and the Retiro itself has been planted with trees, forming a pleasant promenade. In addition to other improvements and conveniences, omnibuses now ply from the city in various directions, so that locomotion is greatly facilitated, and people can live out of the city without the trouble of keeping conveyances, if they object to this, or have not the means to maintain them. Commerce is extending rapidly, and the Custom House revenue has doubled itself within a very few years.
BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA.—ESTANZUELLA.
The invitation of Mr. William White to spend a few days at his estancia took me over to Colonia, from which it is distant about 15 miles, amidst the beautiful undulating country of the Banda Oriental. Three to four hours is the time usually occupied in crossing the river, almost in a direct line from Buenos Ayres, and the steamer in which I embarked had very comfortable accommodation but few passengers on board. There was a small boat in opposition to the one I was in, and we arrived very close together.
Colonia is one of the oldest settlements in the River, being built upon a peninsula jutting out into the stream, with a snug little harbour, which is in course of improvement. The town presents a dilapidated and neglected appearance, which is accounted for by its having, until recently, been fortified, and made the head-quarters of different factions during the long civil wars. There is a large church, with three high towers, visible at a considerable distance, and a lighthouse for the protection of vessels passing, as several low islands are situated close to the harbour. Some good looking houses have lately been erected, and the site of a new town laid, but it will be many years before it is likely to assume any importance. I noticed an old gateway, with an inscription dated 1724 over it.
I found Mr. White's carriage waiting for me at Colonia. It was drawn by four horses, the road being heavy for a few miles, but after that we got into a good one,—a kind of beaten track over what is called the campo, and for the first time I realised the pleasurable feeling of travelling over a sea of land, if it can be so named, where, excepting an occasional puesto, or shepherd's hut, not a human habitation is to be seen. The undulations of the land are here very like the long roll of the ocean, by which it is supposed to have been formed, and you are at once in the midst of cattle, horses, and sheep, with grass and thistles growing everywhere, the thistles in many cases being masters of the situation.
It was getting foggy before we reached Mr. White's estancia, but the light of the moon assisted our course across an apparently trackless country. I found Mr. White's quinta a very pretty and comfortable residence, surrounded by trees and evergreens, all of which have been planted by the present owner. The whole place is in fact the creation of some ten years, showing what can be done in this country by a judicious application of capital and labour. The house and estate cover a space of some nine square miles, the former being built on an elevated spot, called “Monte” (or the “Mount,”) and occupying with grounds about 50 acres of good rich soil, overlooking an amphitheatre of hill and dale, which stretches as far as the eye can reach, with “puestos” or shepherds' cottages at regular distances, where the cattle and sheep are collected together at dusk and let out again at daylight. This is a most interesting process, which I have seen described, but it can only be realised personally. It is something like marshalling a scattered army and bringing them into a given square. The shepherds or peons go galloping about until the cattle and sheep are gathered together, when they all, as by a kind of instinct, find their way to the corral or fold. At dawn the following morning they are let out again and roam for miles over the estate. The arrangements at a good estancia like that of Mr. White's are very complete, and every one understands his work, but of course the eye of a master is required to see that the work is properly done. The stock on this estancia consists of about 30,000 sheep, upwards of 1,000 head of cattle, and some 100 horses.
