Note to the Illustration.—Pursuing the plan adopted in several of the preceding chapters, we here follow, in great part, from the source drawn upon in the former instances, the description given of Monte Video, by the same hand to which we are indebted for the illustration. Monte Video, situate in latitude 35 degrees S., longitude 56 degrees W., is the capital of the ‘Banda Oriental’ (eastern shore or banks), or, as it is more formally designated, the ‘Republic of the Uruguay;’ it is on the left bank of the River Plate, but, in part, is a seaport, the river being here above 120 miles across, although this capital is about 100 miles from the ocean. Yet even near Monte Video, after the prevalence of certain winds, the water is not too salt for drinking, in case of necessity; indeed, when off the port, were it not for this freshness, the stranger could hardly credit he is not still at sea, instead of in a river, so immense is it. Monte Video is most advantageously placed for commercial purposes. It is not enough to say that Buenos Ayres is the capital of the Argentine Provinces, and Monte Video that of the Banda Oriental—the extent of territory of which latter is small in comparison with the former—for these two places are not only the chief ports of entry through which, says Parish, the trade of these countries is carried on with foreign nations, but it will be found that at whichever of them the largest amount of foreign goods is landed, they are for the most part destined for the consumption of the people of the countries watered by the Rio de la Plata and its tributaries. The amount of foreign goods—so greatly out of proportion to its population—which, a few years back, was landed at Monte Video, is chiefly to be ascribed to the blockade of Buenos Ayres, which temporarily diverted the trade from its ordinary course. Whenever Buenos Ayres has the misfortune to be so attacked, the advantageous situation of Monte Video, as a central port, will always give it importance as an entrepot for goods destined for the provinces in the interior. This was the case in a remarkable degree during the late beleaguerment of Buenos Ayres, by Urquiza, until the admiral of his fleet, the North American adventurer Coe, went over to the authorities of the City. During the whole of this time, Monte Video, being the only open port, prospered immensely in the amount of shipping entering it. There is no doubt, also, that its situation offers facilities for the supply at all times by indirect means of the adjoining provinces of Brazil and of the Argentine Confederation, of which the Monte Videans will probably avail themselves, to the detriment of their neighbours’ interests, unless, in self-defence, the latter so regulate their customs duties as to countervail all temptations to avoid them. Now this the Buenos Ayreans are wisely doing; for before the close of the past year (1853) they effected an important modification in their tariff, which, coupled with the opening of the great internal streams, is sure to be productive of infinite advantage.[77] The harbour at Monte Video, except during certain winds and violent gales, is good, and the river basin well sheltered. But the vast body of fresh water of the River Plate brings with it, especially after floods, immense quantities of earth, sand, &c., forming continual deposits, gradually filling up this and other harbours in La Plata, and diminishing the depth of water in many places. For instance, in the harbour of Monte Video—the best in the river—formerly large vessels of war, then called frigates (during the Spanish colonial government), used to lie quite close to the wharves in the inner part of the harbour, where none but merchant vessels, and those not of the largest size, now find sufficient depth. This gradual accumulation of alluvial deposit might easily be prevented in the harbour by the use of excavating and dredging machines. They were, in fact, successfully tried some years ago, but the invasion of the country and the late siege of its capital, which lasted above nine years, forced the government to employ all its resources in self-defence, and this, like many other useful measures, was suspended, but will be again resumed speedily, as also many other essential improvements prosecuted with vigour, now that the prospects of peace are assured, from the determination of the whole bulk of the population to abstain from siding with any of the disturbers of tranquillity. Lighthouses have been erected at the entrance of the river; its most dangerous parts are buoyed, and licensed pilots ply off its mouth to take vessels either into the harbour of Monte Video, or up to Buenos Ayres. With their help, and the excellent charts and sailing directions that have been published, the navigation, which would otherwise be difficult, on account of sand-banks, is made tolerably safe for the vast number of merchant vessels which are continually on their passage up and down the river.
The impression on landing here is unfavourable, or at least, was so when I visited it, though such is the rapidity of change in South American regions, that, I believe, matters have put on a very much improved aspect within the short period that has since elapsed. At that time, at all events, the place was very dirty, from rainy weather; ill-paved streets; great confusion with carts and horses; all kinds of queer-looking beings about; and a medley of nations, remarkable even in this focus of motley emigration. Things looked in a rough, unfinished state, such as you would hardly expect to find in the second important city of the La Plata; and the reality contrasted sadly with the gay houses, their fantastic turrets and look-outs, which present such a picturesque appearance from the sea. The poverty the place displays is too fully accounted for by the many years of siege, blockade, civil war, and disaster it has gone through, rendering it almost miraculous that so much should still exist in the shape of a city. You land at the ponte, or custom-house wharf, built out a short distance into the bay, whilst the custom-house itself is in a street some little distance off. On the right, near the entrance of the harbour, is the new custom-house, an immense pile, which, when finished, must prove a great convenience to commerce, so long as the latter is made to go through the ordeal of fiscal duties, which here comprise nearly the entire revenue of the state. Close to the new custom-house is a light-looking jetty, made chiefly of iron, with a good landing-place, and rails running along the wharf to bonded warehouses on shore. This wharf or pier was the work of an enterprising Englishman, who had more public spirit than prudence, and was unsuccessful in his views, owing partly to there not being sufficient water to enable vessels to come alongside the structure. The city of Monte Video is erected on a kind of promontory, running out into the sea, which washes one side, and the bay the other. Like most Spanish towns in South America, it is built in squares, with parallel streets, the houses all shapes and sizes, with square courts, from which you enter the different suites of rooms, many very handsomely arranged and furnished, the area of the court being adorned with plants and flowers. Since the siege was raised, parts of the old fortifications have been pulled down, and new streets are in process of building, as also a new theatre; so that with a continuance of peace, Monte Video would soon assume more importance, and many of its civic defects be remedied. Some spirited individuals have got up a gas company, and the town is now excellently lighted from a local commodity called mares’ grease, and certainly a clearer or better light I never saw anywhere. Country houses are also springing up since the desolation in which the outskirts were left by the nine years’ siege at the hands of Rosas and his creatures, of which it still bears the traces in all directions, particularly at that memorable point between the city and General Oribe’s camp at Cerrito, where every house was riddled or destroyed with cannon-shot, and the very ground ploughed up by the same unproductive metal. In a large square, at the extremity of the town, stands the cathedral, a huge unfinished building, which towers above everything else, and is emblematic of the old Spanish taste in churches. This square will be an acquisition when finished and put in order, planted with trees, &c., towards which there is already some movement; but the majority of the streets are scarcely passable in a conveyance, many being without any pavement at all, a few rough stones being here and there visible; the rest is a compound of mud and filth, and with holes that would astonish any well-educated European animal, however profound his gravity or elongated his ears, but apparently quite natural to the horses and mules of this country, and regarded by them with an exemplary equanimity which bipeds of philosophic pretensions in vain endeavour to emulate.
The difference of race between the inhabitants of Brazil and the River Plate is very remarkable, indicating at once the great change in climate, and those other physiological influences that contribute to determine variety of character among people. At the same time it must be observed that South America furnishes many almost irreconcilable anomalies of this kind; for instance, a feeble and peaceful people dwelt on the cold mountains of Peru; a hardy and warlike race wandered under the burning sun of Brazil. The Uruguayans partake largely of the attributes of the latter. The natives are generally athletic-looking men, mounted on horses that appear part and parcel of themselves; seemingly centaur-like, ‘demi-encorpsed with the brave beast;’ and dressed in a fashion savouring strongly of the Turk—minus the turban.
And tall, and strong, and swift of foot are they,
Beyond the dwarfing city’s pale abortions.
EL LAZO—THROWING THE LASSO.
LA VACA ESTRAVIADA—THE STRAY COW.
The Plata is indeed the land of the horse, par excellence, as will be inferred from the fact of this, the first town of importance on its banks, being lighted with mares’-grease gas. The animals are, generally speaking, described by connoisseurs as not exactly equalling the splendid Spanish parent stock they are descended from, and the first appearance of which in the country where they are now counted by millions, and are part almost of the very being of the natives, was regarded with an awe and astonishment that well nigh paralysed resistance to the invader. Those that swarm along the plains are rather more useful than handsome; heads not clumsy, though not elegantly shaped; body tolerably round, though croup often low; legs, though light, firm and well placed. They are caught with the lasso, in the use of which, as likewise of course in the bolas, the Uruguayan Guacho is fully equal, and is deemed by many even superior, if possible, to his brother of the Buenos Ayrean pampas, with which the European idea of the exercise of these captivating implements is chiefly associated; for the Banda Oriental being much intersected with streams, and trees, and hills, a greater degree of address is perhaps required in managing a herd of wild horses or oxen than in the vast table-land stretching, for hundreds upon hundreds of miles, in an almost unvaried flat, on the opposite bank of the river. But if the Plate be the land of horses, doubly is it the land of cows: the whole region may be said to be one vast horn-and-hoof fair; and the predominant bovine element in the air, the street, the field, proclaims itself overpoweringly to every sense. This, of course, strikes one more forcibly, because of its novelty, on landing at Monte Video, than subsequently at Buenos Ayres, and in the interior; for it is extraordinary how quickly one loses his fastidiousness, and looks with indifference upon sights, and inhales odours, that appear insufferably revolting at the outset of one’s noviciate. The trade carried on by the Uruguayans in the flesh, and hides, and tallow, of cattle, and the skins of horses, is very great,[78] considering the extent of territory and population, and bearing in mind the many impediments of which we have already spoken, and to which we shall have further to advert presently. Latterly, a profitable trade is springing up in the article of mules for Australia; those animals being reared in great perfection in the fine pastures of the Banda Oriental, and being of infinite use in the gold fields, owing to their hardy constitution, strength, and docility. Passengers from Australia, calling at Monte Video, declare the neighbourhood greatly to resemble the vicinage of Melbourne; and there is little doubt that judicious explorations would reveal the presence of large quantities of gold, some having already been found. That the whole state abounds in metalliferous riches is the conviction of many competent judges; and, probably, in no part of the civilised world might small mining capitals be invested with greater certainty of success, or small ‘captains’ commence operations on their own account with stronger assurance of reward, especially as the climate, a most important consideration, admits of Englishmen pursuing their labours without the enervation experienced from the greater heat and drying winds that prevail on the opposite side of the river.