CORRIENTES ON THE PARANA.
‘Our progress this day was remarkable for the beautiful scenery on the side of the Banda Oriental. The view was similar to that which is seen when sailing from Yarmouth, Isle of Wight, to Cowes, (without the high land,) and about the same width of water. In the afternoon, we entered a labyrinth of islands, which contracted the channel considerably. As we advanced, the scenery was very much varied; sometimes between islands so close together, that we shot birds and animals on each shore. These islands are plentifully interspersed with the date palm, which had a most beautiful appearance; and, when we drew out near the main land, the stream widened considerably. We passed either bold, bluff barrancas, over which nothing was visible, and whence we might easily have been picked off by musketry; or a gently sloping green pasture down to the river’s margin, dotted with horned cattle, horses, and sometimes ostriches and deer. Clumps of trees were interspersed, and beautifully grouped by the hand of Nature. Sometimes, for a short distance, a dense forest of large timber-trees impeded the view. A high sand-bank then intervened, with a belt (about fifty yards broad) of trees and shrubs, where I often stopped to rest the men, and then surveyed the country, which was mainly characterized by undulating pasture land, interspersed with coppices and clumps of trees, stretching inland as far as the eye could reach, and completely covered by animal life in great variety, like a very extensive and well-kept park in England. The only thing wanting to make this the most enchanting scene in the world, was the presence of civilized man; but, alas! the brute creation alone enjoyed the terrestrial paradise. As we advanced, we every now and then perceived deer come down fearlessly to drink. Pheasants walked quietly along the banks, or sat in the trees in fancied security, five and six, and even more together. The partridges, both large and small, constantly rose close to the boat; whilst numerous carpinchas sat quietly on their haunches, like Brobdignag brown guinea-pigs, staring at us with the most perfect unconcern. Here was a situation for a sportsman!’
ROSARIO—ON THE PARANA.
CARETAS DE VIAGE—TRAVELLING WAGGONS.
Extensive farms and cattle-grazing districts were seen along the heights, and we were told that a large number of wealthy landowners resided between San Nicolas and Rosario. The opposite bank of the river (Entre Rios) is low and swampy, but well lined with trees. As the sun was setting in splendid tranquillity, we came to anchor off Rosario de Santa Fé, and found it a large, well constructed town, with a good cathedral, whose unique-looking towers were visible many miles distant, in an atmosphere that is singularly translucent beyond the immediate vicinage of the river, which is sometimes obscured by fogs and haze, though we could not learn that any ill effects to human health were experienced in consequence; and certainly the vegetation and herbage appear at once luxuriant and delicate. The cathedral is in a large square, entirely built up, and streets branch from it at right angles, many extensive, substantial looking houses being now in course of erection, and, altogether, an appearance of prosperous activity, as refreshing as unanticipated, pervades the whole place. The town contains about 7,000 inhabitants, and is the great rendezvous for the upper provinces, numerous huge, unwieldy but most capacious waggons being collected about, ready for their laborious service, which they perform chiefly by means of leather. However pertinent the phrase ‘nothing like leather’ may be elsewhere, here it is of universal and unerring applicability. Streets and roads are repaired with heads and horns of cows and horses. A horse’s or cow’s head serves for a stool, or a chair, or a pillow, just as the case may be;[101] but a horse or cow-hide serves for purposes innumerable out of doors, and in all matters of vehicular concernment are inestimable; for where ropes or harness would be but as pack-thread, a slip of raw hide, drying after it has been attached, binds like links of adamant, if any such linking there be. The supply, of course, is inexhaustible; and the dexterity with which a strip of skin, of any dimensions, is fastened to a waggon, or to luggage upon a waggon, and thence coupled, when needful, to the horses, is extraordinary. The only thing that occurred to awaken unpleasant feelings during our stay at Rosario, was the general presence of that ill-omened symbol of sanguinary anarchy and benumbing oppression, the red badge, which unaccountably continues to be exhibited long after the downfall of him whose supremacy it but too significantly testified, though now used by the partizans of Urquiza. Until such emblems be finally discarded, it is in vain to look for any real amalgamation of the provinces, let parchment treaties and ratifications be multiplied as numerously as they may. San Nicolas is the last Buenos Ayrean frontier town, Rosario being in the possession of Urquiza, who was residing not far from it, but living, at that time, very quietly. Advancing upwards between these two places against the stream, we had a fine view of the extensive plains branching from Rosario eastward; there seemed to be abundance of sheep and cattle grazing, and plenty of grass and clover, together with a crop of barley that might have been dressed with guano, and nurtured under the special supervision of Mr. Mechi himself, with all the patent contrivances of Tiptree Farm tripled three times over. Would that there were a myriad of Mechis settled down here! What a glorious country would it be under a better state of even political organization, with a soil prolific, yet not rank, and a climate the most delicious that could be imagined at this season of the year; a positive tonic for the languid in every breath of it, and yet not enfeebling to the robust. From Rosario can be seen the convent of San Lourenço, one of the gigantic establishments of the Jesuits; and at this point occurred the famous encounter with the convoy, under care of Captains Hotham and Thrèhouart, on their return from Paraguay, after forcing the passage of the river, when Rosas erected batteries, and had a huge chain placed across the river, that was soon destroyed by our gallant tars, as we shall see in some detail when we speak of Sir C. Hotham in the chapter on Paraguay.[102]