“Some disagreeable news met us here. We heard that the French authorities at Tahiti were very indignant at our having carried off the natives of islands under their protection, and that they had sent out several cruisers to intercept us. One of our vessels, the ‘Mercedes,’ had been seized with a hundred and fifty natives on board. The vessel had been condemned and sold, the captain sentenced to five years’ penal servitude, and the supercargo to ten. Besides her four or five other vessels had been captured and carried into Tahiti, where they were detained. One, having been taken without any natives, was allowed to return to Callao after she had been compelled to dispose of all her rice and other provisions, so as to make it impossible for her to proceed on her voyage. Besides this, the French Governor of Tahiti had sent to the Peruvian Government demanding that every native who had been taken from islands under French protection should be delivered up, and heavy damages paid for any who might be missing. However, as these formed but a very small number of the natives captured, the matter in itself was not of much consequence. The fear was that not only the French but the English might send out cruisers and interfere in all directions with our proceedings. The profit, however, and the demand for labour was so great, that in spite of the difficulties to be encountered, the merchant I spoke of resolved to persevere in the undertaking, although it would be necessary to use even greater precautions than before.
“This first voyage will give you an idea of two or three others which I made shortly afterwards, when we collected our passengers much in the same way as before, though we took care only to visit islands the least frequented by European vessels, so that our proceedings might be kept as secret as possible.
“Ill luck, however, at length set against us. Some of our vessels were wrecked, the natives rose and murdered the crew of one, the French captured several more, and the Peruvian government, compelled to listen to the complaints which were made, interfered, and considerable difficulties were thrown in the way of landing the islanders. The ‘Andorinha,’ after her long career of success, was driven on a coral reef, when the captain and supercargo and most of the crew perished. I was washed on shore, more dead than alive. Fortunately for me, it was near a village of Christian natives, one of whom found me on the beach, and carried me to his hut, and fed and clothed me, and took care of me till I recovered. He knew the character of the vessel, for we had some time before carried off several natives from that very island, but I told him that I was an Englishman, and compelled by the Spaniards to remain on board. He replied that it mattered not who I was or what I had been about, that I was suffering and in distress, and that his religion taught him to feed and clothe the hungry and naked, and to do good to his enemies—that as long as I chose I might remain, and that if I wished to go I might depart in peace. I was sure he did not believe the account I gave of myself, and I own I did not feel as comfortable as I should have liked. He and his family had prayers and sang hymns morning and evening; and on Sunday, as well as on other days in the week, they attended a large chapel, where a native missionary preached. The other people in the village did the same. All this did not suit me, and I determined to get away as soon as I had the chance. No vessel appearing, however, I told my host that I should like to see other parts of his island, and that I would make a trip through it. He replied that I might do as I wished, but that as some of the natives were heathens or ‘devil’s men,’ as he called them, they might not treat me well. I answered that I would run the risk of that, and as to their being heathens, that was all the same to me. It only, indeed, made me the more eager to be among them, as I thought I should have greater liberty than with my psalm-singing friends. I accordingly walked away with a stick in my hand, for I had no clothes except those on my back. Wherever I went the natives received me kindly, and gave me such food as I wanted.
“After travelling some days, I found myself in a village where there was no church and no school, and the people did not trouble themselves much about clothing. I guessed by this that they were heathens. The chief, a young man, invited me to stop with him, and assist him in his battles. I soon showed him that I was a good hand with a musket, and he remarked that before long the time might come when I could use it. He was just then, however, with some of his friends, going to catch pigeons in the woods. We had first a grand kava feast, the drink they make from certain roots, which they first chew in their mouths. Each of the young men had several trained pigeons, which are taught to fly round and round in the air at the end of a long string, and to come back to their masters when called. Each man had, besides, a small net fixed to the end of a bamboo forty feet in length. On arriving at the wood a large circle was cleared of bush, and a wall of stones built round it. Each sportsman had also a small arbour of boughs erected, in which he could sit hidden just outside the wall. In front of him sat his pigeon on a perch stuck in the ground, while by his side rested his net, ready to be raised in a moment.
“When all was prepared, the decoy birds were let fly as far as the string, forty or fifty feet in length, would allow them, when they circled round and round, and to and fro, over the open ground. The wild birds, on seeing them, collected from all quarters to learn what they were about. The sportsmen then drew down their birds, when, as soon as the wild birds came near enough, they raised their nets, and seldom failed to capture one of the wild pigeons. In an instant the bird was brought down. Bird after bird was caught in the same manner. Before commencing the game, stakes were put in, and he who caught the greatest number of pigeons won them.
“We remained nearly a month engaged in this sport, spending the morning in bird-catching, and the evening in feasting. I tried my hand at it, but though, after a few days’ practice, I managed to catch several birds, I did not succeed as well as the young chiefs. This was more to my interest, for had I beat them, perhaps they might have become jealous of me.
“Altogether, this sort of life suited me much better than that which I led with the Christian natives. They were a hospitable sort of people, and I had as much liberty as I could wish for.
“Among other curious things I observed while I was among them, was the way they manufactured the cloth with which they make their dresses. They used the bark of the paper mulberry tree. The young tree is first cut down, and the bark stripped off; it is then steeped in water for a couple of days, when the inner bark is separated from the coarse outer bark. This is then beaten until it becomes as thin as silver-paper, and much increased in size. Even then it is scarcely a foot wide; but the edges are overlapped, and stuck together with arrow-root melted in water. It is then again beaten till all the parts are completely joined. Pieces are thus made of many yards in length, such as I saw during my first visit to these islands. They are afterwards dyed of various colours, red, brown, and yellow, and patterns are put on with a sort of stamp.
