NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS.
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
1870.
PREFACE.
Svobodnaya Rossia—Free Russia—is a word on every lip in that great country; at once the Name and Hope of the new empire born of the Crimean war. In past times Russia was free, even as Germany and France were free. She fell before Asiatic hordes; and the Tartar system lasted, in spirit, if not in form, until the war; but since that conflict ended, the old Russia has been born again. This new country—hoping to be pacific, meaning to be Free—is what I have tried to paint.
My journeys, just completed, carried me from the Polar Sea to the Ural Mountains, from the mouth of the Vistula to the Straits of Yeni Kale, including visits to the four holy shrines of Solovetsk, Pechersk, St. George, and Troitsa. My object being to paint the Living People, I have much to say about pilgrims, monks, and parish priests; about village justice, and patriarchal life; about beggars, tramps, and sectaries; about Kozaks, Kalmuks, and Kirghiz; about workmen's artels, burgher rights, and the division of land; about students' revolts and soldiers' grievances; in short, about the Human Forces which underlie and shape the external politics of our time.
Two journeys made in previous years have helped me to judge the reforms which are opening out the Japan-like empire of Nicolas into the Free Russia of the reigning prince.
February, 1870.
6 St. James's Terrace.
CONTENTS.
| CHAP. | PAGE | |
|---|---|---|
| I. | Up North | [11] |
| II. | The Frozen Sea | [16] |
| III. | The Dvina | [20] |
| IV. | Archangel | [24] |
| V. | Religious Life | [29] |
| VI. | Pilgrims | [34] |
| VII. | Father John | [40] |
| VIII. | The Vladika | [46] |
| IX. | A Pilgrim-boat | [51] |
| X. | The Holy Isles | [57] |
| XI. | The Local Saints | [62] |
| XII. | A Monastic Household | [68] |
| XIII. | A Pilgrim's Day | [73] |
| XIV. | Prayer and Labor | [78] |
| XV. | Black Clergy | [84] |
| XVI. | Sacrifice | [91] |
| XVII. | Miracles | [96] |
| XVIII. | The Great Miracle | [103] |
| XIX. | A Convent Spectre | [110] |
| XX. | Story of a Grand Duke | [114] |
| XXI. | Dungeons | [118] |
| XXII. | Nicolas Ilyin | [124] |
| XXIII. | Adrian Pushkin | [130] |
| XXIV. | Dissent | [135] |
| XXV. | New Sects | [142] |
| XXVI. | More New Sects | [146] |
| XXVII. | The Popular Church | [151] |
| XXVIII. | Old Believers | [158] |
| XXIX. | A Family of Old Believers | [161] |
| XXX. | Cemetery of the Transfiguration | [167] |
| XXXI. | Ragoski | [173] |
| XXXII. | Dissenting Politics | [179] |
| XXXIII. | Conciliation | [183] |
| XXXIV. | Roads | [187] |
| XXXV. | A Peasant Poet | [192] |
| XXXVI. | Forest Scenes | [197] |
| XXXVII. | Patriarchal Life | [202] |
| XXXVIII. | Village Republics | [208] |
| XXXIX. | Communism | [213] |
| XL. | Towns | [218] |
| XLI. | Kief | [222] |
| XLII. | Panslavonia | [225] |
| XLIII. | Exile | [229] |
| XLIV. | The Siberians | [235] |
| XLV. | St. George | [241] |
| XLVI. | Novgorod the Great | [246] |
| XLVII. | Serfage | [250] |
| XLVIII. | A Tartar Court | [254] |
| XLIX. | St. Philip | [257] |
| L. | Serfs | [262] |
| LI. | Emancipation | [267] |
| LII. | Freedom | [272] |
| LIII. | Tsek and Artel | [278] |
| LIV. | Masters and Men | [284] |
| LV. | The Bible | [289] |
| LVI. | Parish Priests | [294] |
| LVII. | A Conservative Revolution | [299] |
| LVIII. | Secret Police | [306] |
| LIX. | Provincial Rulers | [312] |
| LX. | Open Courts | [318] |
| LXI. | Islam | [324] |
| LXII. | The Volga | [330] |
| LXIII. | Eastern Steppe | [336] |
| LXIV. | Don Kozaks | [341] |
| LXV. | Under Arms | [346] |
| LXVI. | Alexander | [351] |