Each side of her well-laden barrow was dressed nearly halfway along with a row of sticks having cherries tied on them. To assist in retailing her other fruit, there lay before her a “full alehouse measure” of clean pewter, and a pair of shining brass scales, with thick turn-over rims, and leaden weights, for the “real black-hearts” that dyed the white cloth they lay on with purple stains. If she had an infant, she was sometimes met with it, at a particular spot, for her to suckle. She was then a study for a painter. Her hearty caresses of her child, while she hastily sat down on the arm of her barrow, and bared her bountiful bosom to give it nourishment; the frolic with which she tickled it; the tenderness with which she looked into its young, up-turned eyes, while the bland fluid overflowed its laughing mouth; her smothering kisses upon its crowing lips after its nurture; and her loud affectionate “God bless it!” when it was carried away, were indescribably beautiful.
As the seasons changed, so her wares varied. With the “rolling year,” she rolled round to us its successive fruits; but cherry-time was the meridian of her glory. Her clear and confident cry was then listened for, in the distance, with as much anxiety to hear it, as the proclamation of a herald, in the full authority of office, was awaited in ancient times. “What can keep the barrow-woman so long?—Surely she has not gone another way!—Hush! there she is; I hear her!” These were tokens of her importance in the neighbourhood she circled; and good housewives and servant girls came to the doors, with basins and dishes, to await her approach, and make their purchases of fruit for their pies and puddings. As she slowly trundled her barrow along the pavement, what doating looks were cast upon its delicacies by boys with ever-ready appetites! How he who had nothing to lay out envied him who a halfpenny entitled to a perplexing choice amidst the tempting variety! If currants were fixed on, the question was mooted, “Which are best—red or white?” If cherries—“white hearts, or blacks?” If gooseberries—“red or yellow?” Sometimes the decision as to the comparative merits of colour was negatived by a sudden impulsive preference for “the other sort,” or “something else;” and not seldom, after these deliberations, and being “served,” arose doubts and regrets, and an application to be allowed to change “these” for “them,” and perhaps the last choice was, in the end, the least satisfactory. Indecisiveness is not peculiar to childhood; “men are but children of a larger growth,” and their “conduct of the understanding” is nearly the same.
Mr. George Cruikshank, whose pencil is distinguished by power of decision in every character he sketches, and whose close observation of passing manners is unrivalled by any artist of the day, has sketched the [barrow-woman] for the Every-Day Book, from his own recollection of her, aided somewhat by my own. It is engraved on wood by Mr. Henry White, and placed at the head of this article.
Before barrow-women quite “went out,” the poor things were sadly used. If they stopped to rest, or pitched their seat of custom where customers were likely to pass, street-keepers, authorized by orders unauthorized by law, drove them off, or beadles overthrew their fruit into the road. At last, an act of parliament made it penal to roll a wheel or keep a stand for the sale of any articles upon the pavement; and barrow-women and fruit-stalls were “put down.”
Fruit Stalls.
These daily purveyors to the refreshment of passengers in hot weather are not wholly extinct; a few, very few, still exist by mere sufferance—no more. Upon recollection of their number, and the grateful abundance heaped upon them, I could almost exclaim, in the words of the old Scotch-woman’s epitaph—
“Such desolation in my time has been
I have an end of all perfection seen!”
Ah! what a goodly sight was Holborn-hill in “my time.” Then there was a comely row of fruit-stalls, skirting the edge of the pavement from opposite the steps of St. Andrew’s church to the corner of Shoe-lane. The fruit stood on tables covered with white cloths, and placed end to end, in one long line. In autumn, it was a lovely sight. The pears and apples were neatly piled in “ha’p’orths,” for there were then no pennyworths; “a pen’orth” would have been more than sufficient for moderate eating at one time. First, of the pears, came the “ripe Kat’er’nes;” these were succeeded by “fine Windsors,” and “real bergamys.” Apples “came in” with “green codlins;” then followed “golden rennets,” “golden pippins,” and “ripe nonpareils.” These were the common street-fruits. Such “golden pippins” as were then sold, three and four for a halfpenny, are now worth pence a piece, and the true “golden rennet” can only be heard of at great fruiterers. The decrease in the growth of this delightful apple is one of the “signs of the times!”