When a pacer begins to cross-fire every one knows he is not balanced. There are different causes for cross-firing: front feet not properly fixed and at the proper angle, not carrying the proper amount of weight in front will help to cause it, and on hind feet the same. Too much slipping will help to create it. But the most important thing that causes cross-firing, nine times out of ten, is because the hind feet are a lot higher on the inside than they are on the outside, which creates a leverage to leave the ground from when at speed, which extra height or length of foot acts as a leverage to control the line of action of the leg after the foot leaves the ground. In all my experience with cross-firers I have found this the most important factor, namely, the inside of the offending feet to be the highest. So the fixing of the feet is the most important part of the contract. If you can get the feet properly fixed to change the leverage, to control the line of action, there will be no more cross-firing. (This same rule applies to a trotter that is unbalanced if the insides of his hind feet are the highest and when he strikes a singlefoot or pace he is very likely to cross-fire). The pacer that begins to cross-fire needs the insides of the hind feet lowered, a little longer angle to leave the ground from, with the height or extra length of foot to create a leverage on leaving the ground to be at the outside toe. A foot properly fixed as herein prescribed and a properly made and fitted shoe will stop cross-firing. I would recommend a sideweight shoe, the weight to be applied to the outside of feet, the inside to be beveled or rounded from center of toe back to the inside quarter of each hind shoe. The shoes could be a few ounces heavier than previous shoes for best results. As a rule pacers go best and fastest in shorter feet than the trotters. The easier a pacer can leave the ground the more rapid gaited he will be, and the more he will be inclined to stick to the pace. By all means shoe to prevent slipping both in front and behind. A proper angle for the front feet has to be found, also for the hind feet, so that the speed at both ends will be in harmony, if one end is faster than the other there will be friction.
There will be found in this work directions as to how to lengthen or shorten the stride, to increase or decrease knee or hock action, to widen hind action, also the best way to prevent winging in and paddling out, at speed. Also how to quicken the action of dwelling gaited ones. As to the proper amount of weight that the horse goes the fastest with in his shoes, the trainer should know better than any one else, but all trainers are not the best judges of gait, an expert on the ground taking a view from in front, from behind, and a side view, has a big advantage over the driver. An expert trainer and race driver knows when his pupil can step a mile, half or three-quarters at a 2:10 or 2:05 or a 2:00 gait on a light line, that his horse is all right, if there is any friction he can see it or feel it on the lines.
XLI. NOTE OF IMPORTANCE.
Now right here is the most important part of a little transaction that should not be omitted from any trainer’s records. The condition your horse has worked up to and how he has been cared for, his weight, whether he wears calks or not, what is the angle of his feet and length of toes front and hind, what is the weight of his front shoes also his hind shoes, also about his harness, the exact length of back strap and check rein, and what hole the buckle belongs in the check rein should be carefully noted. If you keep a record of these things no one can tell you what your horse needs, for you will know it yourself far better. If a change takes place and it is not physical, it may have occurred in the shop if he has been shod recently, and as you have kept a record of his feet and shoes and harness you can find out by reference to it.
The last time I was in Lexington, Ky. I was working at my trade, shoeing horses, when I was approached by a gentleman by the name of Saunders, he said to me that he was told by some of his friends to see me about shoeing a cross-firing pacer that he had and he also said that I was recommended to him very highly. I told him I could tell him what I could do for the horse after seeing the condition of the feet, if I could help him or not, so he had the horse led around to my tent to be looked at. After looking at the feet and shoeing, I told him I could help that horse wonderfully, so the next day my subject was led around for me to operate on. I had learned that this horse cross-fired so bad they could hardly keep quarter-boots on him, and they were afraid to work him on account of cross-firing. He was entered to start at the meeting but was a little short of work. His feet were in bad shape according to the calipers and foot adjuster and to my eye. I fixed this horse’s feet to pace without cross-firing and truly, according to the prescription given in this book for cross-firing. That horse responded to the treatment instantly and the horse paced fine with no more cross-firing. He was worked a couple of times during the week and went all right, and during the meeting he was going so good they agreed to start him. He started in the race and if my memory serves me right he finished second the first heat, the second heat several horses finished ahead of him, I do not remember how many, but when they came out for the third heat the driver of this horse was called up in the stand to watch this horse while a driver by the name of Mike Bowerman piloted him to victory in three straight heats and he took a record close to 2:10. I believe the horse’s name was Sable Gift, or some other gift. The only gift the horse got was a record, something he did not want, neither did those that were buying first, second and third choices.
XLII. KEEP THE FEET LEVEL.
The front foot should never be the highest on the outside of a trotter or pacer, unless the horse paddles with one or both front legs. A foot that is left high on the outside and low on the inside will help to prevent paddling and will increase the winging in to the knees. A foot that is kept high on the inside and low on the outside will help to prevent winging in to the knees. There are lots of paddlers who do not begin to paddle until the foot has left the ground quite some distance, and to prove this I have seen the shoes worn by some paddlers and the most of the wear on the shoes of the paddling leg or legs was at the outside toe of shoe. A paddler that leaves the ground from the inside toe of shoe can be made to carry the leg straighter in a line at speed easier than one that leaves the ground from the outside toe.
The reason why a front foot should not be left highest on the outside, of a trotter or pacer, unless he is a paddler, is this; supposing the front legs at the chest or where the upper arm joint is connected with the chest is ten, twelve or fifteen inches apart, I mean the distance the two front legs are from one another where connected with the body. Now when this horse is at speed and can go fast at the trot or pace, like most all fast horses at speed, his foot prints will be straight in a line one after the other on the track. Now if their upper arms are ten or twelve inches apart, more or less, and at speed their feet land nearly on a line, the front legs are not working forward and backward in a straight up and down line from the body, so this being the case just try to imagine just how those two front feet land on the ground with the legs wide apart at the upper arms and the feet landing straight in a line or nearly so at speed. The question is, should the outside of front foot be lower than the inside, if so, how much, to distribute and equalize the concussion on both sides of a front foot at the heels when at speed. What I am trying to explain is, if you have a fast trotter or pacer and he does not paddle, and you are working to develop speed intending to race, and if the outside of the front feet are the highest and the inside of the hind feet are the highest, every time you work this horse with unbalanced feet you are guilty of one of the greatest crimes that are committed by trainers and horse-shoers.
In fixing the front feet on all fast horses, trotters or pacers, that do not paddle, first rasp the outside of a front foot down to where you want it, toe and heel, then you can rasp the inside of the foot down to where it will suit the action of the leg the best. The reason for this is you can always lower the inside of a front foot a lot lower than you can the outside of same foot and when you rasp the inside of a front foot down first, nine times out of ten you will not be able to rasp the outside of the same foot down to a level with the inside. Now the hind foot is just to the reverse. Always rasp to lower the inside of a hind foot down first to where you want it and then take the outside down to a level with it. If you do not fix feet by this rule, the sensitive portion of the foot will often prevent you from lowering it enough to level up matters with opposite side, and the sensitive parts of the foot that will prevent you from doing this will be the outside of a front foot and the inside of a hind foot. This is the main reason why so many floormen in shops all over the country cut the inside of front feet too low for the outside, and leave the inside of the hind feet too high for the outside of same. But if you will fix feet by this rule you will be right the most of the time.