"Journal, April 20th.–Travelled from Lahore to Rawal Pindee in a Government gāri, a curious lumbering conveyance, drawn by the most wretched and stubborn of horses. From Rawal Pindee partly by hill-cart, and partly by mule. The hill-cart certainly excels the gāri in speed if not in comfort. It is something like an Irish car on two high wheels, and although the road to Murree is all more or less steep, the horses seemed almost to fly along the way. It is curious to find one's self mounting terrace after terrace of the steep mountain side, and to look down on the great landscape of the plains you have left. Rhododendrons, honeysuckle, clematis, geraniums, acacias on every side, mingling with the grand Alpine firs. Murree itself is a Swiss-like station, every house built in some cleft of the mountain side; from it you see the everlasting snows not very far off.
"21st.–Left Murree with the Rev. Mr. Handcock of Peshawar. After ten miles ride reached Dawal about midnight.
"22d.–From Dawal to Kohalla; a beautiful ride all down mountain side; passed through quantity of snow. Saw tiny yellow Potentilla Tormentilla, also the Pteris Quadrifolia, and Primula Vulgaris; very few birds to be seen among the pines which clothe those mountains through which we passed; the odour of the pines most charming. Half way to Kohalla saw the river Jhelum wending its way from Kashmir. Arriving at Kohalla, found the rest-bungalow preoccupied. Dined under a tree. Afterwards Qadir Bakhsh addressed the coolies and people from the village. One of the men was almost totally blind from cicatrices on the cornea; an artificial pupil would have done wonders for him.
"April 24th.–After seeing most of our baggage off on coolies' backs we crossed the rapidly flowing Jhelum in a ferry-boat, the oarmen of which seemed wonderfully dexterous. In climbing the rugged road to Dhunna had many a fall, and arrived in a bruised and tired condition, but said that I should be glad to see any of the sick people in the village if they came after breakfast. It was now 11 A.M., and an hour after, a large company had assembled; some sixteen of whom became my patients."
In a communication to us, written as he passed up country, it came out on every page how much Dr. Elmslie magnified his office as a Medical Missionary. From the time he left England till now, when he enters Kashmir, he never let slip an opportunity of gathering or giving information about Medical Missions, and anything hopeful regarding their extension gladdened his heart. "When at Jullunder, on my way to Lahore, I met with the Rev. Mr. Woodside of the American Presbyterian Mission, whose sphere of labour is Kapurthala. You are perhaps aware that the Rajah of Kapurthala is favourably disposed to Christianity. He contributes very largely to missionary objects, and has built a handsome church entirely at his own expense. His Highness has also built a large and commodious house for a Medical Missionary. I trust a suitable agent will soon be appointed to this place. The sphere is an excellent one. As David (Young) is nearly finished, I have asked Mr. W. to write to him. At Allahabad I met the Rev. Mr. Williamson, Presbyterian Chaplain in one of Her Majesty's regiments, now serving in India. He belongs to the Established Church of Scotland. But there is little or nothing of the 'Isms' in India. Love to the Saviour is the shibboleth. Mr. Williamson became so full of Medical Missions that he resolved to write to Dr. Norman M‛Leod about having a Medical Missionary sent to the Established Church Mission at Sealkote." When Dr. Elmslie returned to Scotland in 1870, he had the joy of meeting for an hour or so, in Edinburgh, a young Medical Missionary–Dr. Hutchison–just starting for Sealkote.
CHAPTER VII.
KASHMIR–ITS PEOPLE, ETC.
It may be well to precede Dr. Elmslie into the valley that is to be the principal scene of his future labours, to get a glimpse of the country, the people, the Government, &c., that we may the more intelligently accompany him in his work.
The valley of Kashmir is situated to the north of the Punjaub, between north latitudes 33° and 35°, and east longitudes 74° and 76°. Its height above the level of the sea is about 5350 feet. The range of mountains to the south of this far-famed valley, and separating it from the Punjaub, is called the Pir Panjal, the average height of which, above the level of the sea, is about 12,000 feet. The two main passes in this mountain range are the Banihal, at an elevation of 9200 feet, and the Pir Panjal at a height of 11,400 feet. The valley itself, which is very flat and fertile, is about 50 miles in length and 20 in breadth. Through the middle of the valley flows the broad bosomed Jhelum in a westerly direction. On both banks of this river, and equally distant from either end of the valley, stands Kashmir or Srinagar, the capital of the country. Although Srinagar, as a city, is possessed of uncommonly great facilities for excellent sanitation in a magnificent river and numerous canals, it is nevertheless extremely filthy.
The climate of the valley of Kashmir is characterised by great salubrity. From the middle of June till the middle of August, the heat in the valley is sometimes a little disagreeable. The nights, however, are always cool and pleasant. The temperature is sometimes as high as 90° indoors during the time specified.