"3rd May.–Reached Nowshera at 11 A.M., and after bathing, proceeded to treat the sick who had been collected by the Moonshee, who informed me he was the only adult in the village who could read, and that he had opened a school and had at present six scholars. I gave him a copy of the New Testament in Hindu, and promised to give him a present on my return to Nowshera if he should satisfy me he had carefully read and studied the book. How very important it is to influence for good those who are, like this young man, the only channels of learning to the people. As usual the coolies and sick having been placed near each other, Qadir proceeded to address them, after which the coolies received their pay and were allowed to depart. Thirty-six were then seen and treated.
"4th May.–To-day we sailed in sight of Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir. When about three miles from the city we halted to breakfast. While seated at my morning meal I observed two women pass me carrying baskets on their heads full of provisions for the market. Shortly after they had passed, my attention was arrested by cries in the direction in which they had gone, and on looking round, observed two men busy rifling the women's baskets. I took these men for servants of the Maharajah's, but discovered afterwards that they were not. On landing in Srinagar my first business was to find a house suitable for my work. To be so, it must be situated near the city. I learned that the bungalows belonging to the Maharajah, and which he assigns to the Europeans visiting the valley, were either already occupied or reserved, at least those nearest the city. I had to go elsewhere therefore, and was very fortunate in getting part of a bungalow quite close to the uppermost bridge of the city. For the scanty and rude accommodation I had to pay twenty rupees a month, an exorbitant rent in Kashmir. The accommodation consisted of one large room, which served for drawing-room, dining-room, sitting-room, bed-room, &c., three verandahs, and four very small closets situated round it. Down stairs there was a large verandah. Being anxious to have a proper bargain made about the house, I sent for the owner's agent, and desired him to sign an agreement, which one of my assistants had drawn out. I was afraid that should I not have a sure bargain made the proprietor of the house might raise some objections when he should see the work which I intended carrying on. The man told me that no agreement of this kind could be made in Kashmir without the presence and consent of the Maharajah's Baboo. I need scarcely say I felt very anxious about the result of his being present. He was, nevertheless, sent for and came. When all was amicably and satisfactorily arranged, as I thought, the Baboo said to me that I should require to state in the written agreement that I was prepared to quit the bungalow on the 15th of October next. Seeing that it would be worse than useless to make any objection, I took my pen and wrote as he desired, feeling greatly ashamed that I belonged to the country of which Kashmir is a tributary. It is most devoutly to be wished that the policy of our country towards such states as Kashmir were more becoming a great and Christian nation like Great Britain. How contemptible and inconsistent as a nation we must appear to such a people as the Kashmiris.
"9th May.–To-day is memorable in the history of the Kashmir Medical Mission, from the fact that I opened my dispensary this morning. I had given notice that I intended receiving patients from this date. The verandah on the southern aspect of the house was prepared for the sick people to meet in. Punctually at seven o'clock A.M., I, Qadir, the catechist, and my two native assistants went into the verandah, after supplicating together the blessing of God on the work which we were about to initiate in Srinagar. Qadir read the opening verses of the fifth chapter of the Gospel of Matthew, and made a running and suitable commentary on the passage. The service was closed with a brief prayer for the divine blessing. I now retired to the small verandah on the east side of the house, which I had had fitted up–very rudely, I must confess–as a dispensary. Here the patients were seen one by one. The number present to-day was ten. In the course of the day the Baboo called to see me. During his visit he told me that some Padre Sahib had been preaching in the Bázár, and that the Diwan had commanded him (the Baboo) to inform the gentleman, whoever he might be, that he was not to repeat his Bázár preaching. I ascertained afterwards that the Rev. W. Handcock was the clergyman referred to.
"10th.–Received a note from the Rev. W. Handcock to say that as he had been prohibited by the Diwan's order from preaching any more in the bazaar, and as his servants found it impossible to obtain supplies of food, he had resolved to quit Srinagar on the 12th inst. 'If they persecute you in one city, flee into another.' With Mr Handcock's fate before me, it would be most unwise on my part to permit my catechist to preach in the bazaar. It appears to be the best course in the circumstances, however desirable it may be that it were otherwise, to be content with the day of small things in Kashmir, and to wait patiently and prayerfully for a brighter day to dawn on this most unhappy country. After the morning reception of patients, I, accompanied by Qadir, visited two of the bazaars of the city, not for the purpose of preaching, but to know the people and to spread the news of our dispensary. Began to read English with my native assistants.
"13th May.–Began my Saturday itinerations to-day. We hired a boat and sailed in the direction of the Takht-i-Suliman, and landed at a small village, where we had a meeting of the villagers, among whom four applied for medicine. The name of the village is Gagribal. I purpose to devote the Saturday afternoons to these short itinerations to the neighbouring villages, that the people may hear the gospel in their own tongue, and know of the Medical Missionary Dispensary in Srinagar.
"16th May.–The number of patients thirty, the majority of whom were sepoys. I begin to suspect that this is the result of some plan or other to prevent the Kashmiris from coming to our dispensary. We shall see. The devil is doubtless busy. The Bishop of Calcutta, accompanied by his private physician, arrived at a little past seven to see our operations. He heard the greater part of the address which Qadir was delivering when he entered. The passage of Scripture being commented on was Our Lord's Prayer. His lordship adjourned to the surgery after prayer, and remained till he had seen a number of the sick examined and treated. Received a note in the course of the day from Colonel Gardner, requesting medical advice for one of his children.
"17th May.–Began tract distribution to-day in the Bazaar. The people received them gladly. I make it a point not to give away any books unless the receiver can read them. The people are very friendly indeed.
"18th May.–The number of patients this morning was forty. Excised a cystic tumour from a young man. Having explained the object and effects of chloroform, I asked him if he wished me to give it to him. After some slight hesitation he consented. In all probability this is the first time a native Kashmiri has been anæsthetised in the valley with chloroform.
"19th May.–The Lord Bishop of Calcutta paid the Dispensary a second visit this morning, along with his private chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Harley. Paid my first domiciliary visit to-day to see the young man from whom I had excised the cystic tumour yesterday. Was gladly received.
"20th May.–After this morning's reception we hired a boat, and set out for a pretty large village called Hazrat Bal, which is situated on the shores of the large lake near to Srinagar. We took a supply of medicines and tracts with us. On landing at the place, a shady tree was selected, near to the Musjid, and there my chair and the medicines were placed. While Qadir, the catechist, was giving information of our arrival and objects, I went to see the neighbouring Mussulman temple. There I saw the principal Mullah or priest with a few of his subordinates. We had some conversation together, after which I left them, thinking that by this time Qadir would have collected the people. On leaving the Musjid and its priests, I found Qadir standing under a shady walnut tree addressing a numerous company of hale and sick folks, who were quietly seated on the ground round him, listening most attentively to his words. The Mullahs, as soon as they heard what Qadir was speaking about to the people, rushed amongst them, shouting out that they were to go away immediately. Their efforts were successful. All left us except one poor woman, who appeared to be imbecile. She would not move. One priest applied very liberally a rope, which he carried in his hand, to those whose movements were slower than he thought they should be. It was a sad scene, and the only antidote I could think of for my feelings of indignation was prayer to that God who was looking on and seeing all that was taking place against His blessed gospel. Qadir, the two native assistants, and myself, all knelt down under that same shady walnut, and prayed God to forgive these enemies of His truth and change their hearts. Only three sick persons availed themselves of the opportunity presented to them of obtaining advice and medicine. We got into our boat and made for home, much depressed by what had happened.