14th July.–"Went with Qadir Bakhsh, to examine the ruins of the temple of Avantipura, which is said to have been built to the honour of Siva in the eighth century. The stones, or rather blocks, of blue limestone, of which this grand structure was formed, lie heaped one on another, but in such a state of preservation, that one is inclined to believe that its present state of ruin has been caused by earthquake, and not by the dilapidating hand of man or time. The Rev. Mr. Cowie has collected a large sum of money for the purpose of excavating some portion of the buried ruins; and one whole side of the square of the colonnade which surrounded the shrine is now laid bare. The remains of the splendid pillars are worthy of Athens or Rome; large blocks of carved stone lie between them, and towards the north side there are the remains of an arched gateway, through which must have been the entrance to the inner temple. It stands almost entire. The ground-plan is about fifty-four feet square, and the height is supposed to have been sixty-eight feet. On two buttresses, at either side of the interior, are traces of carved idols. Avantipura was once the capital of Kashmir.
"18th July.–I forgot to mention that, through the kindness of Drs. Brown and Dallas of Lahore, a native doctor had been sent to help me from the Punjaub. He arrived in Srinagar a day or two before our departure. On arriving at Islamabad, we had encamped on the left bank of the river, which was the only convenient camping-ground near the city. We are awkwardly situated for the sick, as the river lay between us and the city. In consequence of this drawback to our position, we had to cross the river daily; and, as there was a large grove quite close to the city, we met there for worship and the reception of the sick. The number of patients present to-day was (?). Qadir addressed the group, and was patiently and quietly listened to. Islamabad lies on low ground near the river, which is here a comparatively small stream. The surrounding country is well wooded, and finely cultivated. Behind the town is a long lacustrine promontory, stretching back for several miles, and on this platform, at its upper end, is built the ancient temple of Martand. It is by far the most perfect ruin of its class in the valley–the inner temple being still almost complete, and on the walls it is not difficult to trace the remains of carefully carved images. The surrounding walls are much broken, but have evidently been formed of the splendid blocks of hewn and carved limestone which lie heaped in every direction. The temple faces the sun, in whose honour it was built about 350 A.D.
"20th July.–To-day, we loosened our moorings, and sailed away from Islamabad, not without the hope that what had been done and said would, in God's good time, bear fruit. The Maharajah's servants were exceedingly civil and obliging, and the kotwal spoke very kindly of the Rev. R. Clark, who had visited Islamabad the previous year.
"22d July.–The previous evening, we arrived at the village of Kákapur, which is situated on the left bank of the river Jhelum. On arriving, intimation was given that the hakim would receive patients in the morning. In the morning, a company of fifty was gathered under the shade of a gigantic plane tree on the bank of the river, near to our boats. Qadir read the third chapter of St. John's Gospel, and then explained the nature of the new birth, with its fruits. The people most attentive, and apparently interested. Twenty-six persons applied for advice and medicine. The poverty and filth of the people great. The majority of the cases ophthalmic.
"27th July.–(Srinagar). In the afternoon, performed Chopart's operation for caries of the bones of tarsus. The patient was a girl, whose father and mother were present during the operation. Chloroform was administered to the patient, who went off very quickly. In operating, my difficulties are legion, for I have everything to do myself.
"10th August.–Twenty-seven men and twenty-seven women present. One man from Baramula, another from Islamabad, the two extremities of the valley. Addressed them myself from the opening verses of St. John's Gospel: one of the Diwan's principal officers was present, and when he heard me speak of the Son of God made manifest in the flesh, it was too much for him: he quietly rose and took his leave."
"11th August.–Number of patients thirty-two. Subject of address from St. John xv., 'This is my commandment, that ye love one another, as I have loved you.' I always take care to select such passages as embody the cream of the Gospel–the Father's love, and the Father's Gift, Jesus the Son of God, Jesus God, His voluntary sacrifice of Himself for all who shall believe on Him, the free invitation to all to come and be saved. I touch but little on Mohammedanism or Hinduism. I think the spread of the gospel would be hindered by my doing so, and that more progress would be made if there were less of polemics in missionary operations. Let the gospel be fully preached, and we shall see that Christ is still the power of God unto salvation to everyone that believeth.
"12th August.–Twenty-seven men and seventeen women present to-day. After dispensary work, my assistants and I sailed up the river to see the ruins of Pandrenton, an old Hindu Temple; distance no more than three miles, but it took us four hours to reach the place by water, the Jhelum meanders so. The temple is situated in the midst of a small lake, which is covered with reeds. It is built of large blocks of stone, and shows, in its style of architecture, a close affinity to the form of the common Hindu temple of Bengal, i.e., the square block surmounted by a pyramid roof. The floor is under water; lying near the edge of the small lake, we saw the God, a stone image, with red paint marks. It is still worshipped much. Returned by land. Saw quantities of hemp growing, and also some plants of "thorn-apple." Met many worshippers returning from Amarnath, one of whom told me that six men had been killed in ascending to the Holy Cave by the falling of some rocks.
"15th August.–Fifty-three patients to-day. Addressed them from St. John iii. 16, 17. Felt my own heart glow with love to the Saviour, as I tried to commend Him to others. It is very trying to speak to an assembly on matters in which they have not the least sympathy. But the promise, 'Lo, I am with you alway,' is fulfilled.
"22d August.–Learned to-day from one of the Maharajah's military servants that the report I had heard some time ago about the sepoys and people having been prohibited from coming to me was quite correct. Besides, it turns out that a sepoy had been placed at the end of the wooden bridge adjacent to my bungalow, to keep a watch upon my movements. Both the sepoys and people have up to this time paid very little attention to the prohibition. The collection made by the Rev. Mr. Cowie, the chaplain, for the Kashmir Medical Mission amounted to Rs.113, 6a.