"21st.–Sunday.–I am resting in this picturesque village, Nowshera, to-day, having arrived yesterday evening, after a good ride from Saidabad. I held a reception of the sick, and my assistant, Thomas, addressed them in a very simple, earnest way. After this I held service with the servants, and in the afternoon went into the little town, where I saw an old dilapidated serai, which is said to have been built by the Mogul emperor, Shah Jehan. On the roof of this ruinous building a trial for theft was being carried on. In the evening had a second reception for the sick. Treated in all 85 patients to-day.
"22d.–Started from Nowshera at 6.30; reached Chungas Serai about 1 P.M. The road good. Captain –– is here, and we dined together. After a struggle with myself I summoned courage to ask a blessing aloud. What a religious coward I sometimes am!
"23d.–Rajaori.–Twenty-five sick people here. Addressed them on John iii. 16. Jesus Christ is the only balm for a sinner's wounds. Nothing but Jesus will do. The people's interest increased as I went on, and they gathered more closely round me to hear better. One man said that the prophets were good and holy, and had interest in heaven to procure us blessings, especially salvation. I answered that their own testimony was that they were themselves sinners, and therefore needed a Saviour to atone for their sin. No one could save us without bearing the penalty due, even death. Oh, that God may bless His own Word for His own glory!
"24th.–Dhanna.–How glad I am that I had an opportunity of bearing medical testimony in favour of total abstinence in presence of Captain ––! It may be helpful to him. We had a large gathering of sick people to-day.
"25th.–After proceeding for a short time along the Pir Panjal route, I turned to the left and began the ascent of the Ratan Pir, which is by no means easy. The descent is particularly rough, and my boxes were a good deal damaged by to-day's journey. This place–Surim–is not a town, but only a number of houses scattered on the hillside.
"28th.–Kahuta, Sunday.–We have had two receptions here, and a large number of sick people attended. The little son of a distant Nawab was brought to me by a servant. The little fellow was suffering from partial paralysis of the lower extremities, caused by bathing in cold water when in a state of perspiration.
"29th.–Through the snow to-day, and across the Haji Pir, 7000 feet above sea level.–Hyderabad.
"30th.–Uri.–A most beautiful march from Hyderabad. Passed a lovely waterfall on the right hand of the stream along which we marched. Its height is about 50 feet. The mountains have their summits crowned with snow; soft, white clouds nestle in their bosoms or float down their rugged cliffs. The firs wear their beautiful fresh green, and the other trees present a variety of lovely blossoms; the flowers, the birds, the ever-changing face of the landscape, all lighted up by the glorious sun! Who can behold such scenes without lifting up the heart in thankfulness to Him who has clothed His earth with such beauty and grandeur? I visited the dilapidated-looking fort which guards the road near Uri. It boasts of one brass gun of 10 lbs. and four iron ones of smaller calibre. The Nawab whom I here treated two years before came to see me, and stayed to the address given to the sick. He listened attentively while I spoke on 'The wages of sin is death,' and he answered questions intelligently. May the Spirit of Life quicken him!
"Nowshera, May 1st.–Left Uri at 6.15, and arrived here at 11.45. March a long one, but the scenery very lovely and grand. I intimated my readiness to receive the sick from the neighbouring houses, but the moonshee of the place told me the people here think that one day's medicine could be of no avail.
"2d.–On the River Jhelum.–This morning started from Nowshera for Baramula, where we arrived about 10 A.M., and at once hired two large boats to convey us to Srinagar. Sailed at noon. The change from walking to sailing delightful. The view we had of the valley from Baramula hill is most enchanting. The valley lies encircled by lofty mountains, whose peaks are white with snow. The mountains on the north and east of the valley seem as if the materials of which they are composed had at one time been molten, and as if, while in this state, they had been lashed into great waves, and then suddenly set into their abrupt forms. They are remarkably barren. The mountainous ridge on the south and west has a more diversified outline, and two or three very lofty peaks towards the south form a grand offset to the whole range. The quantity of snow on the northern aspect of this mountain boundary is much greater than that on the southern range. Reached Sopur about 6 P.M. This is a picturesque-looking town on the western extremity of the Wular lake, through which the Jhelum flows. Sleeping in one's boat is cold at this season.