FIRST WINTER IN THE RIVIERA.
| VI. LONDON TO SOUTH OF FRANCE. | |
| Folkestone—Passage—Paris—Railway Journey from Paris—Fontainebleau—Dijon—Macon—TheRhone—Avignon—Nimes—Marseilles, | [127] |
| VII. CANNES. | |
| Arrival—Description of Cannes—The Bays—Estrelles—Grasse—LordBrougham—Duke of Vallombrosa’s Villa—the Eucalyptus—Croixde Garde—Promenade—Bathing Places—Drains—Garden of theHesperides—Arbutus—Croisette—California—S. Marguerite—FortMonterey—Use of Marble—Mosquitoes, Snakes, and Lizards, | [144] |
| VIII. NICE. | |
| Cannes to Nice—Appearance of—The Chateau—The Paillon Torrent Bed—Niceas a Health Resort—Hotels and Public Places—Nice toMentone, | [159] |
| IX. MENTONE. | |
| First Impression—Old Town—Mountain Shelter—West Bay—TidelessSea—Drains—Olive Terraces—Valleys—Rivers—Rurality—Quarters—Doctors—TheHotels—Pension Charges—FurnishedHouses or Rooms—Helvetia—Churches—School and Classes—PublicInstitutions—Newspapers—Guide-Books—Mentone byNight—Donkey Excursions—Castellar—Rain and Storm—Gorge ofSt. Louis—The Carrei Valley—View from Bridge—Boirigo Valley—St.Agnes—Castle—Monastery of S. Annunciata and Chapel—TheGorbio Valley—Gorbio—Rochebrune—Cape Martin—Red Rocksand Caves—The Fossil Skeleton—Hanging Gardens—Belinda—Grimaldi—Promenadedu Midi—Life on the Promenade—FrenchAttire and Customs—Monte Carlo—Gaming Tables—theGarden—Pigeon-shooting—Monaco—Mentone Villas—Gardens—Shops—CirculatingLibraries—Industrial Occupations—WashingClothes—Fishing—Sheep-keeping—Donkey-letting—Woodwork—Townand Rural Labourers—Animal Labour—Birds—Mosquitoes—Deaths—Funerals—Cemetery—theEvenings—Red-letter Days—ChristmasDay—New, Year’s Day—Conscription Day—Carnival—Corsica—Weather during Winter, | [166] |
ITALY.
| X. SAN REMO AND GENOA. | |
| Cross Frontier—The douane—Ventimiglia—Bordighera—San Remo—Climate—SanRemo described—Excursions—Hotels and Pensions—Visitors—Doctors—Churches—Industries-TheWomen—Photographs—SanRemo to Genoa—Italian Money—Fares—Coast Towns—Savona—Pegli—Genoa—Positionand Appearance—Statue ofColumbus—Hotel Rooms—Drive through Town—S. Maria diCarignano—The Streets—Palaces—Churches—Public Park—CampoSanto, | [237] |
| XI. SPEZIA, PISA, SIENNA. | |
| Railway to Spezia—Hotel—Cold Weather—Spezia, a Summer Place—Described—CarraraMarble Quarries—Pisa—Leaning Tower—CathedralBaptistery—Campo Santo—The Town—Drive to Lucca—Sienna—Position—CollegioTolomei—Cathedral—Its Library—Frescoes—PiazzaVittorio Emanuele—Town Hall and other Places—Citadel—ItalianSoldiers, | [263] |
| XII. ROME. | |
| Quarters—Piazza di Spagna—Carriages—The seeing Rome—FirstSunday—Scotch Church—Castle of St. Angelo—St. Peter’s—Piazza—Interior—ApostlePeter in Rome—St. Peter’s Aisles andAltars—Mosaics—Ascent of Dome—Palm Sunday—The Vatican—Sculptures—Pictures—SistineChapel—Preliminary Drive throughTown—The Streets, Buildings, etc.—Lecturers on Rome—TheColosseum—Rome’s Birthday Illuminations—Arches of Constantineand Titus—Old Roman Roads—Forum Romanum—The Capitol—Churchof Ara Cœli—The Museums—Palatine Hill—Palace of theCæsars—Temple of Vesta—Cloaca Maxima—Monumental Pillars,Trajan’s—M. Aurelius—The Obelisks—Aqueducts—Baths of Caracalla—Columbaria—Catacombsof Callixtus—Appian Way—TheChurches—Pantheon—S. Pietro in Vincoli—Jesuit Church—Capuccini—S.Clemente—SS. Cosma e Damiano—The Lateran—SantaScala—S. Maria Maggiore—S. Paolo fuori le mura—ThePalaces—Contents of Galleries—Engravings and Photographsof Pictures—Copying Pictures—The Rospigliosi—Guido’s Aurora—TheBarberini—Beatrice Cenci—Other Galleries and Studios—TheRoyal Palace—Borghese Grounds and Casino—Pincian Hill Gardens—Driveto Tivoli—The Campagna—Hadrian’s Villa—Tivoli—S.Lorenzo fuori le mura—Shop Purchases—Photographs—MosaicJewellery—Bronzes—Copies of Paintings—Old Rome as it was, | [275] |
| XIII. NAPLES, POMPEII, SORRENTO. | |
| Naples, Drive through—Cabs and Cabmen—Population—Thieving—Bayof Naples—Town described—Cathedral—Hotels—Museum—Chiaja—Aquarium—Photographs—Bijouterie—Castellamare—Pompeii—Museum—Excavations—OldCity—Public Buildings—PrivateDwellings—Streets—Shops—Sorrento—Excursions—CapriBlue Grotto—Sorrento Woodwork—Beggars—Return to Naples—Puteoli—Amphitheatre—Solfatara, | [322] |
| XIV. FLORENCE AND BOLOGNA. | |
| Florence—Situation—Lung’Arno—Florence described—Bridges—S.Miniato—Piazza Michel Angelo—Fiesole—The Streets—Cascine—HistoricalAssociations—Churches—Cathedral—Campanile—Baptistery—Misericordia—S.Croce—Chapel and Tombs of theMedici—Museum of S. Marco—S. Spirito—Piazza della Signoria—Loggia—PalazzoVecchio—House of Michael Angelo—UffiziGallery—Pitti Gallery—Artists copying—National Museum—PalazzoCorsini—Academia delle Belle Arti—Association for Encouragementof Fine Arts—Florentine Marbles and Mosaics—ItalianLungs—Bologna—Drive through Town—Leaning Towers—Museumand Library—S. Petronio—Villa Reale—Campo Santo—S.Domenico—S. Pietro—Academia delle Belle Arti, | [343] |
| XV. VENICE AND VERONA. | |
| Venice—Railway Station—Hotel Danieli—Bridge of Sighs—S. Marco—ThePresbyterio—Clock Tower—Piazza and its Shops—VenetianGlass—Gondola—Island of S. Georgio—La Guidica—Churches ofVenice—Palaces—Doge’s Palace—S. Marco—Whitsunday—Mosaics—Campanile—Pontedi Rialto—Museo Correr—Academiadelle Belle Arti—Arsenal—Lido—Moonlight—Is Venice healthy?Grand Canal—Verona—Drive through Town—Market-Place—Piazzadei Signori—Tombs of Scaligers—Arena—S. Zenone—OtherChurches—Tomb and Window of Juliet, | [361] |
| XVI. MILAN AND THE ITALIAN LAKES. | |
| Milan—Cathedral—Ceremonies—Ascent—Piazza—Galleria—Driveabout Town—Piazza d’Armi—Arco della Pace—Amphitheatre—S.Ambrogio—S. Lorenzo—Public Park—Novel Mode of Watering—Temperature—ItalianLakes—Arona—Maggiore—Baveno—Lugano—S.Salvatore—Luini’s Frescoes—Bellaggio—Hotel Grand Bretagne—LakeComo—Villa Serbelloni—Villa Carlotta—Villa Melzi—Sailto Como—St. Giovanni—Hot Days, | [380] |
SWITZERLAND—FRANCE.
| XVII. THE SPLUGEN PASS, SWITZERLAND. | |
| Sail to Colico—Chiavenna—Splugen Pass—Campo Dolcino—MadesimoFall—Summit of Pass—Descent to Splugen—Switzerland—Splugen—ViaMala—Thusis—Ragatz—Pfäffers Gorge—Lucerne—Interlachen—RunHome—Chateau d’Œx—Sepey—Aigle—Montreux—Geneva, | [401] |
| XVIII. BIARRITZ. | |
| Lyons—Cette—Toulouse—Lourdes—Pau—Bayonne—Biarritz—RailwayStation—Hotels—Cold Winds—Recent Origin of Town—Description—TheSeason—Natural Attractions—Storms—Breakwater—Boating—Rocks—Tide—Drains—BathingEstablishments—Bathing—TheBathers—Dresses—The Scene—Aquatics—Walks—Light-house—VillaEugenie—Drive to Bayonne—Its Fortifications—Bridges—St.Jean de Luz—Excursion to S. Sebastian, Spain—Seasonends, | [415] |
| XIX. PAU. | |
| Imposing Appearance—Pension Colbert—The Season—Climate—Writerson—Rise of Pau—Town—View of Pyrenees—Chateau—Public Park—Environs—Excursions—TheCemetery—French General Election, | [439] |
| XX. SECOND WINTER IN THE RIVIERA. | |
| Pau to Toulouse—Montpellier—Climate—Town—Train to Marseilles—Toulon—Hyères—Hotels—Climate—Garden—LaPlage—Hyères toCannes—Mentone—Cold Weather—Improvements—More Building—PoliticalPosition in France—Eastern Question—English Positioncauses Anxiety—Death of Victor Emmanuel and Pope—Services inCathedral—Carnival—Gaieties—Mentone to S. Remo—S. Remoto Alassio—Alassio—Hotels—Town—Situation—Walks and Views—Dr.Schneer on Climate—Genoa—Via Orifici—Galleria, etc.—Turin—Viewof Alps from Monastery—The Town—Monuments—WaldensianChurch—Mont Cenis Tunnel—Aix les Bains—ReturnHome, | [450] |
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