Our “Vinum Britannicum”—good Home-brewed Beer—which has been very deservedly called “Liquid Bread,” is preferable to any other Beverage during Dinner or Supper—or Port or Sherry diluted with about three or four times their quantity of Toast and Water—(No. 463*): undiluted, these Wines are too strong to be drank during Dinner,—they act so powerfully on the feelings of the Stomach, that they dull the desire for solid Food, by producing the sensation of Restoration,—and the System, instead of receiving material to repair and strengthen it,—is merely stimulated during the action of the Vinous spirit.
However, the dull stimulus of Distention, is insufficient for some delicate Stomachs, which do absolutely require to be screwed up with a certain quantity of diffusible Stimulus[63],—without which, they cannot proceed effectively to the business of Digestion,—or indeed any other business—we do not recommend such, especially if they have passed the Meridian of Life, to attempt to entirely wean themselves of it—but advise them, immediately after Dinner, to drink as much as is necessary to excite that degree of action in their System, without which they are uncomfortable, and then to stop.—See Observations on [Siesta].
Now-a-days, Babies are brought to table after Dinner by Children of larger growth—to drink Wine,—which has as bad an effect on their tender susceptible stomachs, as the like quantity of Alcohol would produce upon an Adult.
Wine has been called “the Milk of Old Age,” so “Milk is the Wine of Youth.” As Dr. Johnson observed, it is much easier to be abstinent than to be temperate—and no man should habitually take Wine as Food till he is past 30 years of age[64] at least;—happy is He who preserves this best of Cordials in reserve, and only takes it to support his Mind and Heart when distressed by anxiety and fatigue. That which may be a needful stimulus at 40 or 50, will inflame the Passions into madness at 20 or 30—and at an earlier period is absolute Poison.
Among other innumerable Advantages which the Water-drinker enjoys, remember he saves at least Fifty Guineas per annum—which the Beer and Wine drinker wastes—as much to the detriment of his health, as the diminution of his Finances: moreover, nothing deteriorates the sense of Taste so soon as strong liquors—the Water-drinker enjoys an exquisite sensibility of Palate, and relish for plain food, that a Wine-drinker has no idea of.
Some people make it a rule to drink a certain number of Glasses of Wine during and after dinner, whether they are dry, or languid, or not—this is as ridiculous as it would be to eat a certain number of Mutton Chops whether you are hungry or not. The effect produced by Wine is seldom the same, even in the same person—and depends on the state of the animal spirits at the time—whether the stomach be full or empty, &c.
The more simply Life is supported, and the less Stimulus we use, the better—and Happy are the Young and Healthy who are wise enough to be convinced that Water is the best drink, and Salt the best sauce.
But in Invalids past the Meridian of Life, we believe as much mischief is going on when our Pulse hobbles along as if the Heart was too tired to carry on the Circulation, as can possibly be done to the constitution by taking such a portion of Wine as will remove the collapse—and excite the mainspring of Life to vibrate with healthful vigour.
The following is the Editor’s plan of taking liquid food at Dinner,—when he cannot get Good Beer:—he has two wine glasses of Sherry, or one of Whiskey[65], or Brandy, (No. 471), and three-fourths of a pint of good Toast and Water, (No. 463), (which when Dyspeptic he has warmed to about Summer Heat, i. e. 75 of Fahrenheit,) and puts a wine-glass of Sherry, or half a glass of Whiskey, &c. into half a pint of the water, and the other glass of Sherry, or half glass of Whiskey, &c. into the remaining quarter pint—thus increasing the strength of the liquid towards the conclusion of Dinner, after which he drinks from two to four glasses of Port or Sherry—as Instinct suggests the state of the circulation requires—if it be very languid, a Liqueur glass of Johnson’s[66] Witte Curaçoa[67] is occasionally recommended as a renovating Bonne Bouche—about a quarter of an hour after dinner, he lies down on a Sofa, and sleeps for about half an hour—this has been his custom for the last twenty years—half an hour’s horizontal posture is more restorative to him—than if he had sat up and drank three or four more glasses of wine.
As to the Wholesomeness of various Wines[68],—that depends on the integrity and skill of the Wine-maker,—and upon the peculiar state of the stomach of the Wine-drinker:—when my Stomach is not in Good Temper,—it generally desires to have Red Wine,—but when in best Health,—nothing affronts it more than to put Port into it—and one of the first symptoms of its coming into adjustment, is a wish for White Wine.