17. The tool or box tongs (G, [Fig. 8]) should be made to fit the various sizes of lathe tool stock that are used. They should be made substantially and fit the steel perfectly so that it can be held securely and without danger of stinging the hand, while the tool is being forged. Another style of tool tongs is made with one jaw perfectly flat; on the other jaw, lugs are provided to hold the steel firmly. These are not illustrated.
Almost an unlimited number of different tongs could be explained and illustrated, but, from those given, any one should be able to add to or change the tongs he has so that his material can be securely held.
18. Anvil and Forging Tools.—If a complete set of these tools were to be illustrated and explained, a volume would be required. Even then, the worker would very often be compelled to devise some new tool to suit the particular work at hand. One advantage that the blacksmith has over all other mechanics is that when a special tool is required, if he is a thorough mechanic he can make it.
An almost unlimited number of tools might be required in a general smith shop; but only such tools as are essential in manual training or elementary smith work will be considered here.
Fig. 9.
A, hardy; B, cold cutter; C, hot cutter.
19. The hardy (A, [Fig. 9]) should fit the hardy hole of the anvil loosely enough so that it will not stick or wedge fast. It is made of cast steel and should be tempered so that it will not chip or batter from severe use. It is an indispensable tool, especially to one who has to work without a helper, for with it iron can be cut either hot or cold, and steel when it is heated. The material should be held on the cutting edge of the hardy, then struck with the hammer. A deep cut should be made entirely around the material, round, square, or flat, so that it can be broken off by being held over the outer edge of the anvil and struck a few downward blows with the hammer.
Material should not be cut through from one side, for the cut would then be angular instead of square; furthermore, there would be the effect of dulling the hardy if the hammer should come in contact with it. The hardy is frequently used to mark iron where it is to be bent or forged, but it is not advisable to use it for such purposes, unless the subsequent operations would entirely remove the marks, for they might be made deep enough to weaken the metal, especially at a bending point.
20. The cold and hot cutters (B and C, [Fig. 9]) are made, as are all other top tools, with an eye for inserting a handle, and should be held by the workman while some one acting as his helper strikes on them with the sledge. The handles can be of any convenient length from eighteen inches to two feet. Cast steel should be used for making both these cutters, but their shapes differ somewhat. The cold cutter B is forged considerably heavier on the cutting end than is the hot cutter, in order to give it plenty of backing to withstand the heavy blows that it receives. The cutting edge is ground convex to prevent the possibility of the corners breaking off easily, and is ground more blunt than the hot cutter. It should be used only to nick the metal, which should then be broken off with the hammer or sledge, as described in cutting iron with the hardy.