The process of making this stand will be given here. By following a similar course, any of the other designs given in this chapter may be made. The material usually employed for making this is 1⁄2 × 1⁄8-inch, and there should be four sections or legs, as shown at the left, also two bands or rings, like the one shown in the upper right, and one top board 7⁄8 inch thick and 8 inches in diameter, which is shown under the ring. The following list gives the number and lengths of the various pieces required:—
4 pieces 451⁄2 inches long.
4 pieces 221⁄2 inches long.
4 pieces 151⁄2 inches long.
4 pieces 15 inches long.
2 pieces 141⁄2 inches long.
4 pieces 13 inches long.
All pieces should be straightened immediately after being cut to length. The main branch, 451⁄2 inches long, should be marked with a center punch at all places where bending or twisting is to be done. From the end of the stock to A is 6 inches; from A to B, 9 inches; B to C, 41⁄2 inches; the length of the twisted portion is 21⁄2 inches.
All ends that are to be scrolled, should be drawn, curled, and fitted to the central portion of the former, as previously indicated. When both ends of the same piece are to be scrolled, observe carefully whether they revolve in the same or in opposite directions. These ends should not be cooled after drawing and fitting, because cooling will have a tendency to harden them slightly and prevent uniform bending. All ends that are to be connected to another piece by clips should now be drawn out to a thin edge, but of a uniform width.
Now proceed to form the main branch by making the twisted portion between B and C; straighten if necessary. Form the upper angular bend of 90 degrees at A while it is held in the vise; this can be done cold, by carefully avoiding breaking or cutting the material with the sharp edge of the vise. Now form a scroll at the top on the former. Next bend at B in the same manner and direction as before, and make the two quarter circles between A and B, with the bending fork alone or by combining the use of it with the bending wrench. Exercise care in doing this, in order to have the correct space for scroll 2 and ring E, which should be 5 inches outside diameter. The lower angular bend at C should now be made, followed by forming as much of the scroll D as possible on the former. Then bend the irregular curve between D and C.
The next member to be scrolled and fitted into position is the 151⁄2-inch piece, 4. This must be carefully made in order to have the extreme height of the scroll at the proper distance from the bottom line, also at the proper distance from the center line, to provide an exact dimension where the lower ring F is to be connected. The outside diameter of ring F should be 5 inches. Then scroll and fit the 15-inch piece, 3, followed by the 13-inch piece, 5, and finish this leg by arranging the 221⁄2-inch piece, 2, last, so that it will not extend above the bottom line of the circular board and will leave at least a 1⁄4-inch space between the center line and the sides of the curves.
All parts should be assembled on the drawing after they are fitted, and marked with crayon wherever the clips are to be placed to secure them. The material for the clips, which should be 3⁄8-inch half-oval Norway iron, should be cut up in lengths equal to the four outside dimensions of the combined materials plus 1⁄8 of an inch for bending, or 15⁄8 inches in this case. After these pieces are bent on the clip former, fasten the scrolls together with the clip holder and the clincher.
After the four legs or parts have been assembled, lay each separately on the drawing, to make sure that the places, where they are to be connected with the rings and the circular board, are properly located. If they are correct, mark these places with a center punch, and drill 9⁄64-inch holes where the rings are to be connected and 3⁄16-inch holes where the top is to be secured.
The two 141⁄2-inch pieces are for the rings. Drill a 9⁄64-inch hole 3⁄8 of an inch from each end in both pieces, countersink one side of one end of each piece, and grind a beveled edge on this end, but on the opposite side from the countersink. Form them into rings having the countersink inside. Connect the ends of each ring with a 1⁄8 × 3⁄8-inch round-head rivet, inserting it from the outside of the ring and riveting the ends together, filling the countersink. Place the rings separately on the mandrel and make them perfectly round on the inside by forming a slight offset on the outside end where it begins to lap over the beveled inside end.
Draw a 5-inch circle on a piece of board and divide it into quarters. Place the rings on this outline with the outside end about 1⁄4 inch from one of the quarter lines. Mark where each quarter line crosses the ring, center-punch these places, drill 9⁄64-inch holes, and countersink them on the inside. Then assemble the legs by riveting the upper ring to the standard with 1⁄8 × 1⁄2-inch rivets, the lower one with 1⁄8 × 3⁄8-inch rivets, their heads toward the exterior so that riveting will be done on the inside of the rings filling the countersink. Place the circular top board in position and secure it with 1-inch #10 round-head wood screws. This will complete the construction, with the exception of a coat of black japanning, if a glossy finish is desired, or a coat of dead black lacquer if a rich dull black is desired.