I will now proceed to give the reader some account of the Islands I visited, and of the manners and customs of the natives, and shall endeavour to be as candid and correct as possible.
The Mulgrave Islands are situated between 5 and 6 degrees north latitude, and between 170 and 174 degrees of east longitude. They are about 50 miles in length, and lie in the form of a semi-circle, forming a kind of inland sea or lake; the distance across it being about 20 miles. The land is narrow, and the widest place is probably not more than half a mile. On the north side of the group are several inlets or passages, of sufficient depth to admit the free navigation of the largest ships; and if explored, excellent harbours would in all probability be found. In the inland sea are numerous beds of coral, which appear to be constantly forming and increasing. These coral beds are seen at low water, but are all overflowed at high tide. The whole group is entirely destitute of mountains, and even hills, the highest land not being more than six feet above the level of the sea at high water. By the accounts given me from the natives, it appears that some parts have been overflowed by the sea. Their being so low, makes the navigation near them very dangerous in the night, both because they would not be easily seen, and because the water is very deep quite to the shores; and a place for anchoring can scarcely be found on the outside of the Island.
The air of these Islands is pure, and the climate hot; but the heat is rendered less oppressive by the trade winds, which blow constantly, and keep the atmosphere healthful and salubrious for so low a latitude.
The soil, in general, is productive of little besides trees and shrubs, and most of it is covered with rough coral stones.
The productions are breadfruit in its proper season, and cocoanuts, which they have throughout the year; and a kind of fruit different from any that grows in America, which the natives call Bup—all growing spontaneously. Of the leaves of the trees the women manufacture very elegant mats, which they wear as blankets and clothing; of the bark of a vine they make men’s clothing; and of the husks of the cocoa they make ropes and rigging for their canoes, and for almost every other purpose. The waters round the Islands abound with fish, and the natives are very expert in catching them.
There are no animals on the Islands, excepting rats; and by these little quadrupeds they are literally overrun.
The number of all the inhabitants, men, women, and children, is probably between five and six hundred.
The following may be given as prominent characteristics of the natives.—They are in general, well made and handsome—very indolent and superstitious. They are morose, treacherous, ferociously passionate, and unfriendly to all other natives. When they are not fishing, or otherwise employed, they are generally travelling about, and visiting each other. They have no salutations when they meet, but sit down without exchanging a word of civility for some minutes; but after a silent pause, the head of the family, if there is any thing in the house to eat, presents it to his guests, who, when they have eaten sufficiently, if there are any fragments left, are very careful to secure them and carry them off when they return home; and the host would regard it as an imposition, if his visitors were to neglect this important trait of politeness, and fashionable item in etiquette. They accustom themselves to frequent bathing; and commence with their children on the day of their birth, and continue the practice twice a day, regularly, till they are two years old. They do this to invigorate the system, and render the skin of their children thick and tough by exposure. Their living consists simply of breadfruit, cocoanuts, and bup; but cocoanuts are all they can depend on the year round—the two other articles being common only a part of the year.
Their diversions consist in singing, dancing, and beating time with their arms, in a manner similar to the amusements of the natives at the Sandwich Islands; in which they appear to take great delight.
They wear their hair long, and tie it up in a kind of bow on the top of the head, and this is all the covering they have for their heads. The men have long beards. One part of their dress makes a singular and ludicrous appearance, which resembles two horse tails suspended from the waist, one before and the other behind. The women’s dress consists of two mats, about the size of a small pocket-handkerchief, which they tie round them like an apron.