Our trip to Tourette proved a charming one. It is a delightful sensation to rush along the road at the speed of a railway train in an easy vehicle which trumpets like an elephant at every corner and passes everything like a flash. The French have certainly improved on the ordinary means of locomotion, and if the automobile is noisy, the vibration is never felt in travelling, while the nauseous fumes—which, it must be admitted, sometimes half poison the passer-by—are always behind.

That same night, after dinner, we accompanied the Allens, a middle-aged American, and his wife, who lived in Paris, over to Monte Carlo. The Battle of Flowers had taken place there during the day, and that event always marks the zenith of the gaming season. The Rooms were crowded, and the dresses, always magnificent at night, were more daring than ever. Half fashionable Europe seemed there, including an English royal highness and a crowd of other notables. One of De Lara's operas was being played in the Casino theatre, and as this composer is a great favourite there, a very large audience was attracted.

The display of jewels at the tables was that night the most dazzling I had ever seen. Some women, mostly gay Parisiennes or arrogant Russians, seemed literally covered with diamonds; and as they stood round the table risking their louis or five-franc pieces, it seemed strange that with jewels of that worth upon them they should descend to play with such paltry stakes. But many women at Monte Carlo play merely because it is the correct thing so to do, and very often are careless of either loss or gain.

The usual characters were there; the wizened old man with his capacious purse; the old hag in black cashmere, with her rouged face, playing and winning; and alas! the foolish young man who staked always in the wrong place, until he had flung away his last louis. In all the world there is no stranger panorama of life than that presented at ten o'clock at night at the tables of Monte Carlo. It is unique! It is indescribable! It is appalling!

Temptation is spread there before the unwary in all its forms, until the fevered atmosphere of gold and avarice throbs with evil, becomes nauseous, and one longs for a breath of the fresh night air and a refreshing drink to take the bad taste out of one's mouth.

I played merely because Ulrica and Dolly Allen played. I think I won three or four louis, but am not certain of the amount. You ask why?

Because there was seated at the table, exactly opposite where I stood, unnoticed among the crowd, no less a person than Ernest Cameron.

At his side was the inevitable red and black card whereon he registered each number as it came up; before him were several little piles of louis and a few notes, while behind him, leaning now and then over his chair and whispering, was that woman!

At frequent intervals he played, generally upon the dozens, and even then rather uncertainly. But he often lost. Once or twice he played with fairly large stakes upon a chance which appeared practically certain, but he had no fine fortune, and the croupier raked in his money.

For fully a dozen times he staked two louis on the last twelve numbers, but with that perversity which sometimes seems to seize the roulette-ball, the numbers came up between 1 and 24.