The dayly interrogation I had here, for a Carravans departure to Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, being mindfull to visite Babylon: In this my expectation I tooke purpose, with three Venetian Merchants, to go see the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a dayes journey thither. As we ascended upon the mountaine, our ignorant guide mistaking the way, brought us in a Laborinth of dangers; Insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of Rockes: two of our Asses fell over a banke, and broke their neckes: And if it had not bene for a Christian Amaronite, who accidently encountred with us, in our wilesome wandring, we had bene miserably lost: both in regard of Rockes, and heapes of snow we passed; and also of great Torrents, which fell downe with force, from the steepy tops: wherein one of these Merchants was twice almost drowned. When we arrived The Cedars of Libanus.to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but twenty foure of all, growing after the manner of Oke-trees, but a great deale taler, straighter, and greater, and the braunches grow so straight, and interlocking as though they were kept by Arte. And yet from the Roote to the [V. 191.]toppe they beare no boughes, but grow straight upward, like to a Palme-tree; who as may-poles invelope the ayre, so their circle spred tops, do kisse or enhance the lower cloudes; making their grandure over-looke the highest bodies of all other aspiring trees: and like Monarchick Lyons to wild beasts, they become the chiefe Champions of Forrests and Woods.
Although that in the dayes of Salomon, this mountaine was over-clad with Forrests of Cedars, yet now there are but onely these, and nine miles Westward thence, seventeene more. The nature of that tree is alwayes greene, yeelding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent kind of fruite like unto Apples, but of a sweeter taste, and more wholesome in digestion. The Rootes of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by Sheepheards, who have made fires thereat, and holes wherein they sleepe; yet neverthelesse they flourish greene above in the tops, and branches. The length of this mountaine is about forty miles, reaching from the West, to the East: and continually, Summer and Winter, reserveth Snow on the tops. It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature, as Herbage, Tillage, Pastorage, Fructiferous Trees, fine Fountaines, good Cornes, and absolutely the best Wine that is bred on the earth. The Prince of Libanus.The Signior thereof is a Freeholder, by birth a Turke, and will not acknowledge any superiour, being the youngest sonne of the Emeere or Prince of Sidon, who when his Father revolted against Achmet, and not being able to make his owne part good, fled into Italy, to the Duke of Florence: And notwithstanding that the elder brother yeelded up Sidon, and became a pardond subject to the great Turke: yet this the other brother would never yeeld nor surrender, himselfe, the Fort, nor the Signiory of Libanus: The olde [V. 192.]Prince his father after two yeares exile, was restored againe to his Emperours favour; with whom in my second Travels, both at Lygorne and Messina in Sicilee, I rancountred: whence the Duke of Sona that Kingdomes Viceroy, caused transport him on a stately ship for the Levant to Sidon: The Sidonians or Drusians, were first of all French men, who after their expulsion from Jerusalem, fled hither to the borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim, now called Phenicia, as I shall make more cleere afterwards.
The most part of the inhabited villages are Christians, Nestorians.called Amaronites, or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans, and are governed by their owne Patriarke. There are none at this day, do speake the Syriack tongue, save onely these people of mount Libanus; and in that language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written. The kinde Amaronite whom we met, and tooke with us for our best guide, in descending from the Cedars shewed us many caves and Holes in Rockes, where Coliers, religious Siriens and Amaronites abide: Amongst these austere Cottages, I saw Joshuas Tombe.a faire Tombe all of one stone, being 17. foote of length; which (as he said) was the Sepulcher of the valiant Joshua, who conducted the people of Israel to the land of promise.
The Mahometans esteeme this to be a holy place, and many resort to it in Pilgrimage, to offer up their Satanicall Prayers to Mahomet. I saw upon this Mountaine, a sort of fruite, called Amazza Franchi: that is, The death of Christians; because when Italians, and others of Europe, eate any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloudy fluxe, or else ingender some other pestilentious fever, whereof they dye.
The Patriarke did most kindly entertaine us at his [V. 193.]house; so did also all the Amaronites of the other Villages, who met us in our way before we came to their Townes, and brought presents with them of Bread, Wine, Figges, Olives, Sallets, Capons, Egges, and such like, as they could on a sudden provide.
The Bishop of Eden on Libanus.This Bishop or Patriarkes house, is joyned with and hembd in, within the face of an high Rocke, that serveth for three sides thereof, the fore and fourth part being onely of Mason-worke: Neare unto which falleth precipitatly a great Torrent over the sassinous banke, that maketh a greivous noyse night and day: which as I told him, me thought it should turne the Bishop Surdo or starke deafe: But the homely and simple man (not puft with ambition greed, and glorious apparrell, like to our proud Prelats of Christendome) told me, that continuall custome brought him to despose upon the day, and sleepe better in the night, because of the sounding waters. Where reposing with him one night, my Muse the next morning saluted Libanus with these lines.
Long and large Mount, whose rich-spred mantle, see!
Affords three colours, to my wandring eye;
The first are Cornes, in their expectant view,
Faire Barley, Rye, and Wheate; O hopefull hew!