In our backe comming to Bethleem, we saw a Cave in the Desart of Ziph, wherein David hid himselfe, when he was persecuted by King Saul; and the field Adra, where the Angels brought the glad tidings of salvation unto the Sheepheards. Unto all which parts our Moorish guard and John Baptista, brought us and conducted us backe againe to Bethleem, where we stayed the second night.
The Towne of Bethleem.Bethleem is the pleasantest Village in all Judea, situated on a pretty Hill, and five English miles from Jerusalem: It produceth commodiously, an infinite number of Olive and Figge-trees, some Cornes, and a kinde of white Wine, wherewith we were furnished all the time of our abode there; also in, and about Jerusalem. In our way, as we came backe to the City, the next day following, the Viccario shewed us a little Moskee, kept by Turkes, in which (sayd hee) was the Tombe of Rachel, Jacobs wife, who died in that place; as shee was travelling from Padan Aram, with her husband Jacob.
The ruines also of a house, where Habacuk the Prophet dwelt; a Turpentine tree growing yet by the way side, under the which (say they) the Virgin Mary was wont to repose her selfe in travelling. We saw also a naturall rocke in the high way; whereon (say they) Elias oft slept, and is not ashamed to say, that the hollow dimples of the stone, was onely made by the impression of his body; as though the tender flesh of man could leave the print of his portraiture on a hard stone. And not farre from this, they shewed us the place, where the Starre appeared to the wise men, after they had left Herod to seeke for the Saviour of mankind.
Approaching Mount Sion, we saw a quadrangled dry [VI. 280.]pond; wherein (say they) Beersheba the Wife of Urias, was Washing, when David looked forth from the toppe of his Pallace, gazing on the aspect of his lust, gave the Bridle of reason, fast tyed in the hands of temptation; and becomming subject to the subtilty of sinne, was bewitched by her beauty; wherewith corruption triumphed in Nature, and godlinesse decreased in voluntary consent; and from a royall Prophet fell in the bloody lists of Murther and Adultery.
Over against this place, on the North side of Gehinnon, King Davids pallace.we saw the ruines of a Palace wherein David dwelt, which hath beene one of the Angles of the ancient Citty; and standeth at the division of the valley Ennon, which compassed (as a Ditch) the North part of mount Syon, even to the valley Jehosophat, and so Eastward, being now filled up with fragments of old walles; and the valley of Gehinnon lying West, and East; bordering along the South side of Sion, till it joyne also with the narrow valley of Jehosophat, which invironeth the East, and devalling parts of Jerusalem. Neere to this demolished Tower, we saw the habitation of Simeon, who having seene the blessed Messias, sayd: Now Lord let thy Servant depart in peace, for mine eyes have seene thy Salvation.
And now lastly uppon the twelfth day of my abode there, early on Thursday morning, the Guardiano, twelve Friers, and John Baptista (because that was the last day of seeing any more Monuments, or was to be seene there) accompanied us: as wee issued at the South-gate of the City, we came to a place, on the skirt of Syon, where (say they) Peter after his deniall of Christ his maister, wept bitterly.
[VI. 281.]Descending by the side of that same Hill, we crossed the valley Gehinnon, Acaldema.and came to Acaldema, the Potters field, or field of blood; which is a little foure-squared Roome, oppositive to the devalling side of the South-falling Syon: three parts whereof are invironed with a natural rocke, and the fourth square bordering with the valley, is made up of stone worke: The top is covered, and hath three holes, where through they let the dead Christians fall downe; for it is a buriall place of Pilgrimes to this day. As I looked downe, I beheld a great number of dead corpes; some whereof had white winding sheets, and newly dead, lying one above another in a lumpe; yeelded a pestilent smell, by reason they were not covered with earth, save onely the architecture of a high vault, which maketh that in a long time the corpes cannot putrifie and rot.
Neare unto this Campo, we entred into a darke Cave, where (say they) the Apostles hid themselves, when Christ was taken. At the foote of the same valley, we came to Ponto Nehemia.Ponto Nehemia, in which place the Jewes did hide the Holy Fire, when they were taken captives to Babylon; walking more downeward, toward the valley of Jehosophat, we saw a darke Celler under the ground without windowes; wherein (said the Guardian) the Idolatrous Jewes made a sacrifice of their children unto a brazen Image called Moloch, which being made hot, they inclosed them in the hollownesse thereof, and so slew them: and least their crying should have moved any compassion towards them, they made a thundring noise with drums, and other instruments, whereupon the place was called Tophet, mentioned in Jer. 7. 31. Hence we came to the Poole of Siloam, in which wee washed our selves, the water whereof falleth downe through a Rocke, from [VI. 282.]the City above, running straight to the valley of Jehosophat; and there we saw also the remnant of that sacked Towre of Siloam. Neare to this we saw a fountaine, where (say they) the Virgin Mary used oft to wash the Babes clothes and linnen clouts. From thence we crossed the Brook Cedron.Brooke Cedron (which guttereth through the valley of Jehosophat) and is alwaies dry, unlesse it be in December, when the raine falleth there impetuously for a month together, which is all the winter they have in these parts: during which time none may labour, nor travell, but forced to keepe themselves within houses: Having past I say this Brooke wee came to the Tombes of Absolon and Zacharias, and the Cave wherein S. James was wont to hide himselfe from the persecuting Jewes. Ascending more upward on the hill, in the way of Bithania, wee saw these places, where Judas hanged himselfe, over which there is a vault erected, like a halfe Moone, in memory of his selfe murther, and hard by they shewed us where the withered Figge tree grew, the place being inclosed within a high stone dyke; and halfe a mile thence we came to the ruined house of Simon the Lepar.
Lazarus Tomb in Bethania.Arriving at Bithania, we saw the Castle and Tombe of Lazarus, on whom Christ shewed a miracle, in raising him from the grave, after hee had beene 4. dayes dead. It is a singular and rare Alabaster Tombe, and so exquisitely done, that it excelleth (Jerusalem excepted) all the monuments in Judea, erected for the like purpose, being inclosed within a delicate Chappell under the ground. Not farre thence in the same Village, wee saw the decayed house where Martha, and Mary Magdalen inhabited, and the stone whereon Christ sate (say they) when he sayd to Martha, Mary hath chosen the best part.
[VI. 283.]Leaving this moorish Bithania, being now a Village of no qualitie, we returned by beggerly Bethphage, and finding it farre worser, about mid-day wee arrived on the top of Mount Olivet, where wee dined on our owne provision carried with us, and then proceeded in our sights.