The Lake of Geneva, and the River Rhone.The Lake of Geneve is sixteene Leagues in length, and two broad, at the South-west end whereof standeth the Towne, through whose middle runneth the River of Rhone, whose Head and body beginneth from the Lake among the very houses. The nature of which River is not unlike to Nylus, for when all other Rivers decrease (being in Summer) this increaseth. Two reasons proceeding from the excessive Snow that lye upon the Sangalian and Grisonean Alpes, which cannot melt, till about our longest day, that the force and face of the Sunne dissolve it. And so ingorging the Lake, it giveth Rhone such a body, that it is the swiftest River in Europe. The Towne on both sides the flood, is strongly fortified with rampierd walles, and counter-banding Bulwarkes; the [VIII. 349.]Ditch without and about being dry, is mainly pallasaded with wooden stakes, for preventing of suddain Scallets. Many assaults have this handfull of people suffered by Land and Water from the Savoyean Duke; the recitall whereof would plunge me in prolixity; and therefore committing that Light shining Syon, and her Religious Israelites, to the tuition of the Almighty, I step over the Alpes to Torine.
The first beginning of the Duke of Savoy.Here is the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, whose beginning sprung first from the house of Saxon: For Berold or Berauld, being a neere Cousen to the Emperour Otton the third, and brother to the Saxon Duke; the Emperour gratified him with these Lands of Savoy, and parts of Piemont; where he and his Successors continued foure hundred yeares under the title of Earles: untill the Emperour Sigismond, at the Counsell of Constance, did Create Amee, the eight Earle of his name Duke. And so beginning with him to this present Duke now living, named Charles Emanuel, there have been only eight Dukes, and some of them of short lives. And yet of all the Christian Dukes, the most Princely Court is kept heere, for Gallants, Gentry, and Knights.
At the same time, of my being there, this present Duke had wars with his owne brother in Law Philip the third, about the Marquesade of Montferrat, and Dutchy of Mantua, the issue whereof, but retorted to the Duke a redoubling disadvantage; though now it be gone from the Gonsagaes to the French Duke of Naviers. This Country of Piemont is a marvailous fruitfull and playne Countrey, and wonderfull populous, like to the River sides of Arno round about Florence: Insomuch that a Venetian damaunding a Piemont Cavalier, what Piemont was? Replyed, it was a Towne of three hundred miles [VIII. 350.]in circuite, meaning of the Habitations and populosity of the Soyle.
The rest of the surnames of the Italian Dukes are these, viz. that of Parma is Fernese, signifying Partridges; that of Modena is Astie, that of Florence de Medicis; that of Urbine, Francesco Maria, and the last Duke of Mantua, Gonsaga; the Dutchy of Ferrara, being dissolved, is converted to the Popes patrimony.
Leaving Piemont, and coasting the sassinous shoare of Genoaes revieroe, I ported Ligorne, the great Dukes Sea-haven; where I left Mr. Bruce with a Galley Captaine a voluntary Souldier; and inclining alone to Florence by the A comfortable crosse.way at Pestoia, I found a comfortable crosse; for I sighting the market place after supper, and carrying a French Ponyard in my pocket, the head of it was espied by a Badgello, Captaine of the Sergeants, who straight gripped me, bore me to prison, and clapd me in a Dungeon robbing me of all my moneyes and Poneyard; and posting that night to Florence on the morrow shew the Justice there a Stilleto of his owne: upon which I was condemned to row in the Gallies for a yeare, else to pay a hundred Duckats: He stayed there three dayes, in this time was I discovered to the governour of Pistoia, a noble Gentleman, and being brought before him, and acquainting him with the undeserved cruelty of the Badgello: nor that I never wore a Stilleto, but under pretext of that had robbed mee of three-score and twelve pieces of gold: Whereupon the Governour perceiving the knavery of the Villaine, and that he had not acquainted him with my apprehending, to whose place it belonged, he grew immatulent and forthwith sent post to his Highnesse, shewing him the trueth of the businesse: Whereupon the Badgello was sent backe [VIII. 351.]to the Governour with whom I was domestickly reserved; and being accused before my face of his roguery, could not deny it: well, my gold and my Poneyard is restored againe, the Badgello banished the territorie of Pistoia for ever, with his Wife and Children, and I received in compensation of my abuses, from his Highnesse Chamber or Treasury there, fifty Florentine Crownes of gold, being modified by the Duke him selfe; whereat I extolled the knave, that wrought his own wracke in seeking my overthrow, and brought me such a noble reward.
Thanking God for this joyfull crosse and approaching Florence, I found one John Browne there, whose company I imbraced to Sicilia: Whence having privatly past Rome, and publickly Naples, we footed along the marine by Cousenza in Calabria.Salerno, and courting Cousenza, the capitall seate of Calabria where a Vicegerent remaineth, we reposed there certaine dayes.
The Towne is of no quantity nor quality, in regard of the obscurenesse and solitarinesse of the Countrey, the better sort of their Gentry living at Naples: Having left the lower, and entred the higher Calabria, we arrived at the Bourge of Allavria; and the next morning traversing close and covert mountaines, twelve miles along, in the midst of our passage we were beset with foure Bandits and foure Gunnes: To whom holding up my hand, and imploring for our lives, shewing them mine adventures and former travells, they unbend their fire-locks, and reading my patent of Jerusalem, uncovered their heads, and did me homage, notwithstanding they were absolute murderers: Our lives and liberty is granted, and for a greater assurance, they tooke us both in to a great thicket of wood, where their timberd Cabine stood, and there made merry with us in good Wine and the best cheare [VIII. 352.]their sequestrate cottage could afford.
And now because there were forty more Bandits their companions among these mountaines, one of themselves for our safeguard, came along with us, and as neare Castellucia as he durst; making me sweare that I should not shew the Baron of that place of their privat residence, neither that I met with them at all; which I freely did, and so gave him many hearty and deserved thanks.
The liberty of Bandits in Calabria.These Bandits or men-slayers, will come into any free Towne in the night when they please, and recovering either a Church or Hospitall, they stay there as they list, conducing with their friends, their wives, and their affaires; being as safe in these places as though they had not committed any criminall fact, neither may the power of Justice reach to them, so long as they keepe themselves within doores.
This is an auncient liberty which Calabria hath ever retained, and so is through the most part of all the Spanish Dominions: Having arrived at Castellucia, the Baron thereof made much of me, and wondred that I had safely past the mountaines, for said he when I go for Naples, I am forced to go by sea, notwithstanding I have forty in traine.