[X. 442.]The sorrowfull Father (notwithstanding) continued his Pilgrimage to Compostella. Where, when come, and devotion made, our Lady of Mount Serata appeared to him saying: Thy prayers are heard, and thy groanes have pierced my heart, arise, and returne to Saint Domingo for thy sonne liveth. And hee accordingly returned, found it so, and the sonne-hanged Monster, after 30. dayes absence, spoke thus from the Gallowes, Father, goe to our Host, and shew him I live, then speedily returne. By which direction the old man entred the Towne, and finding the Host at Table, in breaking up of two roasted Pullets, A damnable delusion of a divellish miracle.told him, and sayd: My sonne liveth, come and see. To which the smiling Host replyed, he is as surely alive on the Gallowes, as these two Pullets be alive in the dish. At which protestation, the two fire-scorched fowles leapt out suddainly alive, with heads, wings, feathers, and feet, and kekling, tooke flight thrice about the Table. The which amazing sight, made the astonished Host to confesse his guiltines; and the other relieved from the rope, he was hung up in his place, allotting his house for an Hospitality to Pilgrimes for ever.
There are still two Hennes reserved here, in memory of this miracle, and aye changed, as they grow fat for the Priests chops, being freely given to the place. And I dare swearing say, these Priests eate fatter Hennes, than Don Phillipo him selfe, they being fed by the peoples devotion, at their enterance to the morning and evening sacrifices, and are tearmed holy Hennes. Infinite paper could I blot, with relating the like absurdities, and miraculous lies of the Romane Church, but leaving them till a fitter occasion, I proceed. From thence traversing a great part of the higher Asturia, I entred in Galitia, and found the Countrey [X. 443.]so barren, the people so poore, and victuals so scarce, that this importunate inforcement, withdrew me from S. Jacques, to Portugale: Where I found little better, or lesser reliefe, their soyles being absolute sterile, desartuous, and mountainous.
The Kingdome of Portugale.Portugale was formerly called Lusitania, and Hispania, ulteriora: It is in length 320. miles, large 68. and sometimes under: In the Moorish domination it was divided in two Kingdomes, the one reserveth the name of all; the other was called Agarbas: A word Arabick that signifieth the part Occidentall: And were divided with the River Guadion, and the two Castles Odebera, and Aleotino: Agarbas was toward the South, & Portugale Northward.
Portugale is now confined on the South, and South-East with Andolusia: West and South-West, the maine Ocean. Galitia to the North: And Eastward the old and new Castilia. After twenty dayes fastidious climbing in this Kingdome, I returned to Salamancha in Castilia Vecchia; the Sacerdotall University of Spaine, whence springeth these Flockes of Studientes, that over-swarme the whole land with rogueries, robberies, and begging. From thence traversing the Alpes of Siera de Caderama, (which divide the two Castilias) I discended the South side of the mountaines, and arrived at the Escurial; where then late King Phillip the third, had his residence.
The palace of Escuriall.This Pallace standeth alone, and founded upon the skirt of a perpendicular hill of Caderama, squared out from a devalling steepnesse, having a large prospect Southwardly towards the Evenise mountaines beyond Toledo. This palatiat cloyster is quadrangled foure stories high, the uppermost whereof, is window-set in the blew tecture: The stone worke below, having three rankes of larger windowes, incircling the whole quadrangles, and French-like [X. 444.]high rigged. At every spacious squadrat corner, there is an high Turret erected, above the coverture, whose tops beare each of them a golden Globe. In the middle court standeth a round incorporate Church, arising outward in a rotundo, with a wide leaden top, and on each side thereof a squadrat Steeple, higher then the round, making a goodly shew. It hath neither outward walles nor gates, but the two selfe doores of the eleven incloystered petty Courts, save onely some office houses without, and they stand alone by the hill broken side. Escurial is rather a Monastery than Palace.I may rather tearme it a Monastery, then a Kingly Pallace, having a hundred and fifty Monkes, Chartuzians, of St. Hieronimoes order living within it; the King onely remaining in a private corner, at his comming thither. Nay at that instant, he was so private that before I saw his face, I could not beleeve, that the Patrone of so great a Monarchy, could be so quiet; yea, as quiet as a Countrey Baron is with us, and had lived so nine weekes before. The house it selfe I confesse, excelleth in beauty, that Constantinopolitan Seralia, of the great Turke: though not in divisions, and ground distances, yet for a maine incorporate house, and was builded by King Philip the second, standing seven leagues from Madrile, to which I arrived.
Here is the residence of the Court though formerly at Valladoli: Madrid or Madrile, is the Center or middle part of Spaine, situate in the Kingdome of Toledo, the new Castilia. And distant from Lisbone in Portugale Westward one hundred leagues: From Sevilia in Andoluzia ninety leagues: From Grenada Southward, sixty eight leagues: Barselona in Catalogna, East, South-eastward one hundred leagues: From Valentia fifty leagues: From Siragusa in Arragon Eastward fifty three leagues: From Saint Sebastian in Biscai North-westward seventy [X. 445.]leagues: And from Pampelona in Navarre, North-eastward, forty nine leagues. Spaine generally, is a masse of mountaines, a barren ill manured soyle: Neither well inhabited nor populous: Yea, so desartuous that in the very heart of Spaine, I have gone eighteene leagues, (two dayes journey) unseeing house or Village, except two Ventas, Tavernes. And commonly eight leagues without any house: Villages be so farre distant, the Rockie Seraes or Alpes so innumerable.
It is miserable travelling in Spaine.It is miserable travelling, lesse profitable, in these ten Provinces, or petty Kingdomes, hard lodging and poore, great scarcity of beds and deare: And no ready drest diet, unlesse you buy it raw; and cause dresse, or dresse it your selfe, buying first in one place your fire, your meate from the Butcher, your bread from the Baker, your Wine from the Taverne, your Fruites, Oyle, and Hearbes from the Botega, carying all to the last place, your bed-lodging: Thus must the weary Stranger toile, or else fast: And in infinite places for Gold nor money can have no victuals; but restrained to a relenting jejunation. The high-minded Spaniard and their high topped mountaines, have an infused contention together. The one through arrogant ambition, would invade the whole earth to inlarge his dominions: The other by a steepe swolne hight, seeme to threaten the Heavens to pull down Jupiter from his throne. And as I take it, the Spaniard being of a low stature, borroweth his high-minded breast from the high topped mountaines, for the one in quality, and the other in quantity, be extraordinarily infounded.
Certaine it is, as the Spaniard in all things standeth mainely upon his reputation (but never to avouch it with single combat) so he vaunteth not a little of his antiquity, [X. 446.]deriving his pedegree from Tubal, the Nephew of Noe. But (especially as they draw it) how often hath the Line of Tubal, beene bastarded, degenerated, and quite expelled, by invasions of Phænicians, oppressions of the Greekes, incursiones of the Carthaginians, the Conquest and planting of Provinces, and Colonies of the Romanes, the general deluge of the Gothes, Hunnes, and Vandales: and lastly, The long captivity of the Spaniards under the Mores.by the long and intolerable Tyranny of the Moores, whose slavish yoake and bondage in 800. yeares, hee could scarcely shake off; his owne Histories beare sufficient testimony and Record. Then it is manifest, that this mixture of Nations, must of necessity make a compounded Nature, such as having affinity with many, have no perfection in any one.
Their Manners are conformable to their discent, and their conditionall Vertues semblable to their last and longest Conquerors, of whom they retayne the truest stampe.
The most penurious Peasants in the World be heere, whose Quotidian moanes, might draw teares from stones. Their Villages stand as wast like as the Sabunck, Garamont, or Arabian Pavilleons, wanting Gardens, Hedges, Closses, Barnes, or Backe-sides: This sluggish and idle husbandry, being a natural instinct of their neighbour or paternal Moores.