This aforesaid Carabusa, is the principall Fortresse of Creta, being of it selfe invincible, and is not unlike to the Castle of Dunbertan, which standeth at the mouth of Clyd; upon which River The old and famous City of Lanerke.the auncient City of Lanerke is situated: For this Fort is environed with a Rocke higher then the wals, and joyneth close with Capo Ermico: having learned of the theevish way I had to Canea, I advised to put my mony in exchange, which the Captaine of that strength very curteously performed; and would also have diswaded me from my purpose, but I by no perswasion of him would stay. From thence departing, all alone, scarcely was I advanced twelve miles in my way, when I was beset on the skirt of a Rocky Mountaine; with three Greeke murdering Renegadoes, and an Italian [III. 80.]Bandido: who laying hands on me, beate me most cruelly, robbed me of all my clothes, and stripped me naked, threatning me with many grievous speeches.
At last the respective Italian, perceiving I was a stranger, and could not speake the Cretan tongue, began to aske me in his owne language, where was my money? to whom I soberly answered, I had no more then he saw, which was fourescore Bagantines: which scarcely amounted to two groats English: But he not giving credit to these words, searched all my clothes and Budgeto, yet found nothing except my linnen, and Letters of recommendations I had from divers Princes of Christendome, especially the Duke of Venice, whose subjects they were, if they had beene lawfull subjects: Which when he saw, did move him to compassion, and earnestly entreated the other three theeves to grant me mercy, and to save my life: A happy deliverance.A long deliberation being ended, they restored backe againe my Pilgrimes clothes, and Letters, but my blew gowne and Bagantines they kept: Such also was their theevish courtesie toward me, that for my better safegard in the way, they gave me a stamped piece of clay, as a token to shew any of their companions, if I encountred with any of them; for they were about twenty Rascalles of a confederate band, that lay in this desart passage.
Leaving them with many counterfeit thankes, I travelled that day seaven and thirty miles, and at night attained to the unhappy Village of Pickehorno: where I could have neither meate, drinke, lodging, nor any refreshment to my wearied body. These desperate Candiots thronged about me, gazing (as though astonished) to see me both want company, and their Language, and by their cruell [III. 81.]lookes, they seemed to be a barbarous and uncivill people: Cruell Candiots.For all these High-landers of Candy, are tyrannicall, blood-thirsty, and deceitfull. The consideration of which and the appearance of my death, signed to me secretly by a pittifull woman, made me to shun their villany in stealing forth from them in the darke night, and privately sought for a secure place of repose in a umbragious Cave by the Sea side, where I lay till morning with a fearefull heart, a crased body, a thirstie stomacke, and a hungry belly.
Upon the appearing of the next Aurora, and when the welkin, had put aside the vizard of the night, the Starres being coverd, and the earth discoverd by the Sunne; I imbraced my unknowne way, and about midday came to Canea: Invinceable Canea.Canea is the second Citie of Creete, called aunciently Cydon, being exceeding populous, well walled, and fortified with Bulwarkes: It hath a large Castle, containing ninety seaven Pallaces, in which the Rector and other Venetian Gentlemen dwell. There lye continually in it seaven Companies of Souldiers who keepe Centinell on the walles, guarde the gates and Market places of the Citie: Neither in this Towne nor Candia, may any Countrey Peasant enter with weapons (especially Harquebuzes) for that conceived feare they have of Treason. Truely this City may equall in strength, either Zara in Dalmatia, or Luka, or Ligorne, both in Tuscana, or matchlesse Palma in Friuly: for these five Cities are so strong, that in all my Travells I never saw them matched. They are all well provided with abundance of Artilery, and all necessary things for their defence, especially Luka, which continually reserves in store provision of victuals for twelve yeares siege.
In my first abode in Canea, being a fortnight, there came 6. Gallies from Venice, upon one of which there [III. 82.]was a young French Gentleman, a Protestant, borne neare Monpeillier in Langadocke; who being by chance in company with other foure of his Countrey-men in Venice, one of them killed a young Noble Venetian, about the quarrell of a Courtezan: Whereupon they flying to the French Ambassadours house, the rest escaped, and he onely apprehended by a fall in his flight, was afterward condemned by the Senatours to the Galleys induring life. Now the Galleys lying here sixe dayes, he got leave of the Captaine to come a shoare with a Keeper, when he would, carrying an yron bolt on his legge: In which time we falling in acquaintance, he complained heavily of his hard fortune, and how because he was a Protestant, (besides his slavery) he was severely abused in the Galley; A Religious comfort.sighing forth these words with teares, Lord have mercy upon me, and graunt me patience, for neither friends, nor money can redeeme me: At which expression I was both glad and sorrowfull, the one moving my soule to exult in joy for his Religion: the other, for his misfortunes, working a Christian condolement for intolerable affliction: For I was in Venice, at that same time when this accident fell out, yet would not tell him so much: But pondering seriously his lamentable distresse, I secretly advised him the manner how he might escape, and how farre I would hazard the liberty of my life for his deliverance, desiring him to come a shoare earely the next morning. Meane while I went to an old Greekish woman, with whom I was friendly inward, for she was my Landresse; and reciting to her the whole businesse, she willingly condiscended to lend me an old gowne, and a blacke vaile for his disguisement. The time come, and we met, the matter was difficult to shake off the Keeper; but such was my plot, I did invite him to the Wine, where [III. 83.]after tractall discourses, and deepe draughts of Leatick, reason failing, sleepe overcame his sences. Whereupon conducting my friend to the appointed place, I disburdened him of his Irons, clothed him in a female habite, and sent him out before me, conducted by the Greekish woman: And when securely past both Guards and Gate, I followed, carrying with me his clothes: where, when accoasting him by a field of Olives, and the other returned backe, we speedily crossed the vale of Suda, and interchanging his apparrell, I directed him the way over A place of refuge.the Mountaines to a Greekish convent on the South side of the land, a place of safeguard, called commonly the Monastery of refuge; where he would kindly be entertained, till either the Galleys, or men of Warre of Malta arrived: It being a custome at their going, or comming from the Levante to touch here, to relieve and carry away distressed men: This is a place whereunto Bandits, men slayers, and robbers repaire for reliefe.
And now many joyfull thanks from him redounded, I returned keeping the high way, where incontinent I encountred two English Souldiers, John Smith, and Thomas Hargrave, comming of purpose to informe me of an eminent danger, shewing me that all the Officers of the Galleys, with a number of Souldiers were in searching the City, and hunting all over the fields for me: After which relation, consulting with them, what way I could come to the Italian Monastery Saint Salvator, for there I lay; (the vulgar Towne affording neither lodging nor beds). They answered me, they would venture their lives for my liberty, and I should enter at the Easterne (the least frequented) gate of the City, where three other English men were that day on guard, for so there were five of them here in Garison: Where, when we came, [III. 84.]the other English accompanied with eight French souldiers their familiars, came along with us also: And having past the Market place, and neere my lodging, foure Officers and sixe Galley souldiers, runne to lay hands on me: whereat the English and French unsheathing their Swords, valiantly resisted their fury, and deadly wounded two of the Officers: Meane while fresh supply comming from the Galleys, John Smith runne along with me to the Monastery, leaving the rest at pell mell, to intercept their following: At last the Captaines of the Garrison approaching the tumult, relieved their owne Souldiers, and drove backe the other to the Galleys. A little thereafter the Generall of the Galleys come to the Monastery, and examined me concerning the fugitive, but I cleering my selfe so, and quenching the least suspition he might conceive (notwithstanding of mine accusers) hee could lay nothing to my charge: howsoever it was, he seemed somewhat favourable; partly, because I had the Duke of Venice his Pasport, partly, because of mine intended voyage to Jerusalem; partly, because he was a great favourer of the French Nation: and partly because he could not mend himselfe, in regard of my shelter, and the Governours favour: yet neverthelesse, I detained my selfe under Cloysters are safeguards.safeguard of the Cloyster, untill the Galleys were gone.
Being here disappointed of transportation to Archipelago, I advised to visit Candy: and in my way I past by the large Haven of Suda, which hath no Towne or Village, save onely a Castle, situated on a Rocke in the Sea, at the entry of the Bay: the bounds of that Harbour may receive at one time above two thousand Shippes and Galleys, and is the onely Key of the Iland: for the which place, the King of Spaine hath oft offered an infinite deale of money to the Venetians, whereby his Navy [III. 85.]which sometimes resort in the Levante, might have accesse and reliefe; but they would never graunt him his request; which policy of his was onely to have surprized the Kingdome.
South-west from this famous harbour, lieth a pleasant plaine surnamed The pleasant valley of Suda.the Valley of Suda: It is twenty Italian Miles long, and two of breadth: And I remember, or I discended to crosse the Valley, and passe the haven, me thought the whole planure resembled to me a greene sea; and that was onely by reason of infinite Olive trees grew there, whose boughes and leaves over-toppe all other fructiferous trees in that plaine: The Villages for losse of ground are all built on the skirts of Rockes, upon the South side of the Valley; yea, and so difficile to climbe them, and so dangerous to dwell in them, that me thought their lives were in like perill, as he who was adjoyned to sit under the poynt of a two handed sword, and it hanging by the haire of a horse tayle.
Trust me, I told along these Rockes at one time, and within my sight, some 67. Villages; but when I entred the valley, I could not find a foote of ground unmanured, save a narrow passing way wherein I was: The Olives, Pomgranets, Dates, Figges, Orenges, Lemmons, and Pomi del Adamo growing all through other: And at the rootes of which trees grew Wheate, Malvasie, Muscadine, Leaticke Wines, Grenadiers, Carnobiers, Mellones, and all other sorts of fruites and hearbes, the earth can yeeld to man; that for beauty, pleasure, and profit it may easily be surnamed, the garden of the whole Universe: being the goodliest plot, the Diamond sparke, and the Honny spot of all Candy: There is no land more temperate for ayre, for it hath a double spring-tyde; no soyle more [III. 86.]fertile, and therefore it is called the Combat of Bachus and Ceres; nor region or valley more hospitable, in regard of the sea, having such a noble haven cut through its bosome, being as it were the very resting place of Neptune.
Upon the third dayes journey from Canea, I came to Rethimos; This City is somewhat ruinous, and unwalled, but the Citizens have newly builded a strong Fortresse, but rather done by the State of Venice, which defendeth them from the invasion of Pyrats: It standeth by the sea side, and in the yeare 1597. It was miserably sacked, and burned with Turkes. Continuing my voyage, I passed along the skirt of Mount Ida.Mount Ida, accompanied with Greekes, who could speake the Italian tongue, on which, first they shewed me the cave of King Minos, but some hold it to be the Sepulcher of Jupiter. That Groto was of length eighty paces, and eight large: This Minos was sayd to be the brother of Radamanthus, and Sarpedon; who, after their succession to the Kingdome, established such æquitable lawes, that by Poets they are feigned with Æacus to be the Judges of Hell. I saw also there, the place where Jupiter (as they say) was nourished by Amalthes, which by Greekes is recited, as well as Latine Poets.