The Sea Shore

by William S. Furneaux

This last-named phenomenon is one of extreme interest to the sea-side rambler, and also one of such great importance to the naturalist that we cannot do better than spend a few moments in trying to understand how the swaying of the waters of the ocean is brought about, and to see what determines the period and intensity of its pulsations, as well as some of the variations in the daily motions which are to be observed on our own shores.

In doing this we shall, of course, not enter fully into the technical theories of the tides, for which the reader should refer to authoritative works on the subject, but merely endeavour to briefly explain the observed oscillations of the sea and the general laws which govern them.

The most casual observer must have noticed the close connection between the movements of the ocean and the position of the moon, while those who have given closer attention to the subject will have seen that the relative heights of the tides vary regularly with the relative positions of the sun, moon, and earth.

In the first place, then, we notice that the time of high tide in any given place is always the same at the same period of the cycle of the moon; that is, it is always the same at the time of new moon, full moon, &c. Hence it becomes evident that the moon is the prime mover in the formation of tides. Now, it is a fact that the sun, though about ninety-three millions of miles from the earth, has a much greater attractive influence on the earth and its oceans than the moon has, although the distance of the latter is only about a quarter of a million miles: but this is due to the vastly superior mass of the sun, which is about twenty-six million times the mass of the moon. How is it, then, that we find the tides apparently regulated by the moon rather than by the sun? The reason is that the tide-producing influence is due not to the actual attractive force exerted on the earth as a whole, but to the difference between the attraction for one side of the globe and that for the opposite side. Now, it will be seen that the diameter of the earth—about eight thousand miles—is an appreciable fraction of the moon’s distance, and thus the attractive influence of the moon for the side of the earth nearest to it will be appreciably greater than that for the opposite side; while in the case of the sun, the earth’s diameter is such a small fraction of the distance from the sun that the difference in the attractive force for the two opposite sides of the earth is comparatively small.

Omitting, then, for the present the minor tide-producing influence of the sun, let us see how the incessant rising and falling of the water of the ocean are brought about; and, to simplify our explanation, we will imagine the earth to be a globe entirely covered with water of uniform depth.

The moon attracts the water on the side nearest to it with a greater force than that exerted on the earth itself; hence the water is caused to bulge out slightly on that side. Again, since the attractive force of the moon for the earth as a whole is greater than that for the water on the opposite side, the earth is pulled away, as it were, from the water on that side, causing it to bulge out there also. Hence high tides are produced on two opposite sides of the earth at the same time, while the level of the water is correspondingly reduced at two other parts at right angles with these sides.

This being the case, how are we to account for the observed changes in the level of the sea that occur every day on our shores?

Let us first see the exact nature of these changes:—At a certain time we find the water high on the beach; and, soon after reaching its highest limit, a gradual descent takes place, generally extending over a period of a little more than six hours. This is then followed by another rise, occupying about the same time, and the oscillations are repeated indefinitely with remarkable regularity as to time.