It must not be supposed that an indoor aquarium, even when well established, and supplied with the best possible system of aëration, requires no further care and attention. In the first place there is a continual loss of water by evaporation, especially in warm and dry weather, and this must be rectified occasionally. Now, when water containing salts in solution evaporates, the water passing away into the air is perfectly free from the saline matter, and thus the percentage of salt in the residue becomes higher than before. It is evident, therefore, that the loss by evaporation in a marine aquarium must be replaced by the addition of fresh water, which should either be distilled, or from the domestic supply, providing it is soft and moderately free from dissolved material.
But the question may be asked, ‘Do not the marine animals and plants utilise a certain amount of the saline matter contained in the salt water?’ The answer to this is certainly in the affirmative, for all sea-weeds require and abstract small proportions of certain salts, the nature of which varies considerably in the case of different species; and, further, all the shelled crustaceans and molluscs require the salts of lime for the development of their external coverings, and fishes for the growth of their bony skeletons. Hence the above suggestion as to the replenishment of loss by evaporation with pure water is not perfectly satisfactory. It will answer quite satisfactorily, however, providing the sea water is occasionally changed for an entirely new supply. Again, since carbonate of lime is removed from sea water more than any other salt, being such an essential constituent of both the external and internal skeletons of so many marine animals, as well as of the calcareous framework of the coralline weeds, we suggest that the aquarium may always contain a clean piece of some variety of carbonate of lime, such as chalk, limestone, or marble, which will slowly dissolve and replace that which has been absorbed.
Water is rendered denser, and consequently more buoyant, by the presence of dissolved salts; and, since the density increases with the proportion of dissolved material, we are enabled to determine the degree of salinity by finding the density of the solution. We can apply this principle to the aquarium, as a means of determining whether the water contains the correct amount of sea salt, also for testing any artificial salt water that has been prepared for the aquarium.
Probably some of our readers are acquainted with some form of hydrometer—an instrument used for finding the density of any liquid; but we will describe a simple substitute that may be of use to the owner of a marine aquarium, especially if the salt water for the same is artificially prepared. Melt a little bees-wax, and mix it with fine, clean sand. Then, remembering that the wax is lighter than water, and consequently floats, while sand is considerably heavier, and sinks, adjust the above mixture until a solid ball of it is just heavy enough to sink very slowly in sea water. Now make two such balls, and then cover one of them with a light coating of pure wax. We have now two balls, one of which will float in sea water, and the other sink, and these may be used at any time to test the density of the water in, or prepared for, the aquarium. If the water is only a little too salt, both balls will float; while, if not sufficiently rich in saline matter, both will sink.
We must conclude this chapter by making a few remarks on the important matter of the regulation of light and temperature. Direct sunlight should always be avoided, except for short and occasional intervals, not only because it is liable to raise the temperature to a higher degree than is suitable for the inmates of the aquarium, but also because an excess of light and heat tends to produce a rapid decomposition of organic matter, and a consequent putrid condition of the water, and this dangerous state is most likely to occur when both light and temperature are high at the same time.
The water should always be cold; and as it is not always easy to estimate the temperature, even approximately, by the sensation produced on immersing the fingers, it is a good plan to have a small thermometer always at hand, or placed permanently in the aquarium. In the summer time the water should be kept down to fifty-five degrees or lower, and in winter should never be allowed to cool much below forty. There may be some difficulty in maintaining a temperature sufficiently low in summer, but a small piece of ice thrown in occasionally to replace the loss due to evaporation, especially on very hot days, will help to keep it down.
CHAPTER V
THE PRESERVATION OF MARINE OBJECTS
The sea-side naturalist, in the course of his ramblings and searchings on the coast, will certainly come across many objects, dead or alive, that he will desire to set aside for future study or identification in his leisure moments at home. Some of these will be required for temporary purposes only, while, most probably, a large proportion will be retained permanently for the establishment of a private museum, that shall serve not only as a pleasant reminder of the many enjoyable hours spent on the shore, but also as a means of reference for the study of the classification of natural objects and of their distribution and habitats.