The black Spanish radish is a large rooted variety usually sown in
August, and is eaten in the winter season.
The poor labouring man's fare, which is usually eaten under the hedge of the field of his employment, is often accompanied with a dried onion; and was this root more known than it generally is, it would yield him, at the expense of two-pence, with a little labour in his cottage garden, an equally pleasant and more useful sauce to his coarse but happy meals. I have observed many instances of this oeconomy amongst the labouring classes in my youth, but fear it is not quite so commonly made use of in the present day.
460. RADISH, HORSE. Cochlearia Armoracea.—The root of this vegetable is a usual accompaniment to the loyal and standard English dishes, the smoking baron and the roast surloin; with which it is most generally esteemed.
It should not be passed unnoticed here, that this very grateful and wholesome root is not at all times to be eaten with impunity. One or two instances of its deleterious effects have been witnessed by my much esteemed friend Dr. Taylor, the worthy Secretary at the Society of Arts, and which he has communicated to me. I shall insert his own words, particularly as it may be the means of preventing the botanical student from falling into the same error, after arriving with the usual good appetite, from his recreative task of herborizing excursions. "Some gentlemen having ordered a dinner at a tavern, of which scraped horse-radish was one; some persons in company took a small quantity, and, dipping it in salt, ate of it: these were soon seized with a suppression of urine, accompanied with inflammation of the kidneys, which shortly after proved fatal to one of the company. The Doctor was consulted; but not knowing exactly the cause of the complaint, of course was at a loss to apply a remedy in time. But another circumstance of the like nature having come under his notice, and being apprized of it, by a well applied corrective medicine he recovered the patient. It should, therefore, be made a general observation, under such circumstances, and those are not the most unpleasant we meet with in our researches, 'never to eat horse-radish on an empty stomach.'"
461. RAMPION. Campanula Rapunculus.—This plant is remarkable for its milky juice. In France, it is cultivated for its roots, which are boiled and eaten with salads; but in England it is little noticed, except by the French cooks, who use it as an ingredient in their soups and gravies. It is propagated by planting its roots in the spring.
462. RHAPONTIC RHUBARB. Rheum Rhaponticum.—The radical leaf-stalks of this plant being thick and juicy, and having an acid taste, are frequently used in the spring as a substitute for gooseberries before they are ripe, in making puddings, pies, tarts, &c. If they are peeled with care, they will bake and boil very well, and eat agreeably.
463. ROCAMBOLE. Allium sativum.—The rocambole is merely the bulbs on the top of the flower-stalk of the garlic, it being a viviparous plant. The flavour of this being somewhat different, is used in the kitchen under the above name.
464. SAGE. Salvia officinalis.—Of this we have two varieties, green and red. The latter is considered the best for culinary purposes: it is the well-known sauce for geese and other water-fowl. It is propagated by cuttings in the spring.
465. SALSAFY. Tragopogon porrifolium.—A biennial, sown in March, and is usually in season during winter. The roots are the parts used, which are very sweet, and contain a large quantity of milky juice: it is a good vegetable plain boiled, and the professors of cookery make many fine dishes of it.
466. SAVORY, SUMMER. Satureja hortensis.