CONTENTS

Chapter Page
I.[Flying Impressions between Charleston-Kanawha and New Orleans,]15
II.[The Life and Color of New Orleans,]25
III.[Southwestward to the Border,]36
IV.[On to Mexico City,]44
V.[First Impressions of Mexico City,]56
VI.[Vivid Characteristics of Mexican Life,]65
VII.[A Mexican Bullfight,]75
VIII.[From Pullman Car to Mule-back,]86
IX.[A Journey Over Lofty Tablelands,]99
X.[A Provincial Despot and His Residence,]107
XI.[Inguran Mines—Five Thousand Six Hundred Feet Below Ario,]117
XII.[Antique Methods of Mining,]128
XIII.[Some Tropical Financial Morality,]142
XIV.[Wayside Incidents in the Land of Heat,]157
XV.[Morelia—The Capital of the State of Michoacan—Her Streets—Her Parks—Her Churches—Her Music,]168
XVI.[Morelia and Toluca—The Markets—The Colleges—The Schools—The Ancient and the Modern Spirit,]181
XVII.[Cuernavaca—The Country Seat of Montezuma, of Cortez and Spanish Viceroys, of Maximilian—A Pleasant Watering Place of Modern Mexico,]188
XVIII.[The Journey by Night from Mexico City—Over the Mountains to the Sea Coast—The Ancient City of Vera Cruz,]198
XIX.[Voyaging Across the Gulf of Mexico and Straits of Yucatan from Vera Cruz to Progresso and Havana,]210
XX.[The City of “Habana”—Incidents of a Day’s Sojourn in the Cuban Capital,]220
XXI.[Cuba—The Fortress of La Cabaña,]236
XXII.[Cuba—Her Fertile Sugar Lands—Matanzas by the Sea,]247
XXIII.[Cuba—The Tobacco Lands of Guanajay—The Town and the Bay of Mariel,]259
XXIV.[Steamer Mascot—Conclusion,]270

TABLE OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Facing Page
[The Six Comrades of Camp Flap-Jack, 1881,]3
[A Vista of Mexico,]15
[Log Cabin of Kentucky Mountaineer,]19
[Picking Cotton, Mississippi,]21
[Jackson Statue,]28
[The Cabildo,]30
[Hauling Cotton, New Orleans,]32
[Along the Levee, New Orleans,]34
[Ancient French Pavements,]39
[The Alamo,]41
[Old Spanish Convent,]42
[The Desolate Plains,]46
[Awaiting our Train,]49
[Mules Carrying Corn,]51
[A Cargadore Bearing Vegetables,]53
[Patio, Hotel Iturbide,]55
[A Snap-shot for a Centavo,]56
[Cargadores Toting Casks,]57
[My Protectors of the Market,]58
[Errand Boys of the Market,]58
[A Rancherro Dude,]60
[The Cathedral—Mexico City,]62
[La Casa de Azulejos—Now Jockey Club,]64
[Pleased with My Camera,]67
[Volcano de Popocatepetl,]69
[A Pulque Peddler,]71
[A Friend of My Kodak,]72
[Dulce Vender,]73
[Volcano de Iztaccihuatl,]74
[Setting a Banderilla,]76
[Teasing El Toro,]78
[The Gardens of Chapultepec,]81
[Manzanillo’s Fatal Thrust,]83
[Juarez’ Tomb and Wreaths of Silver,]85
[The Tree Where Cortez Wept, El Noche Triste,]87
[Lake Patzcuaro,]90
[Our Departure—Fonda Diligencia,]92
[The Dismantled Convent, Patzcuaro,]94
[Izus and El Padre,]96
[The Highway to the Pacific,]101
[Nearing Ario,]103
[A Milk Ranch near Ario,]106
[The Author—Plaza Grande, Ario,]108
[The Distant Cordillera,]113
[Begging a Centavo,]115
[The Jefe Politico and Soldiers,]117
[Transferring the Prisoner,]119
[Cooling the Horses—Rancho Nuevo,]121
[A Wild Fig-tree—La Playa,]122
[Volcano de Jorullo,]124
[Rancho San Pedro,]126
[In Flight from My Kodak,]128
[The Ancient Stamp Mill,]131
[Copper Ore Dumps—La China Mines,]133
[Moving a Mansion,]135
[Bringing Out the Ore—La China Mines,]137
[Washing Copper Ore,]138
[An Ancient Dump of Copper Ore,]140
[The Llanos—Hawk Poised upon an Organ Cactus,]142
[Arranging a Battle,]146
[The Victor,]146
[Vaqueros Crossing the Rio de las Balsas,]150
[The Landing, Rio de las Balsas,]154
[The Mighty Cordillera,]158
[A Flock of Sheep near Ario,]165
[A Street Scene—Patzcuaro,]167
[A Vista in Morelia,]170
[The Cathedral of Morelia,]172
[A Wild Otome in Flight from My Kodak,]181
[A Diligencia—Toluca,]183
[A Snap-shot through a Doorway—Toluca,]186
[Suspicious of My Camera,]188
[My Cocha—Cuernavaca,]193
[Shrine of the Virgin of Guadaloupe—Cuernavaca,]195
[The Borda Gardens—Cuernavaca,]197
[Aztec Indians—Mexico City,]199
[Volcano de Orizaba,]202
[The Municipal Palace—Vera Cruz,]204
[The Tame Vultures of Vera Cruz,]206
[A Noble Palm,]208
[A Street of Vera Cruz,]211
[The Little Boys Leaving Our Ship,]213
[Off for Progresso,]215
[The Harbor of Havana,]218
[A Spanish Hotel—Havana,]220
[Calle Obispo—Havana,]222
[The Cathedral—Havana,]227
[The First Greensward—Havana,]229
[Selling Vegetables—Havana,]231
[A Corner of the Market—Havana,]234
[The Fortress of La Cabaña,]236
[The Entrance to La Cabaña,]238
[Where Patriots were Shot—La Cabaña,]243
[A Spanish Park—Matanzas,]247
[The Wreck of the Maine,]250
[A Glimpse of Matanzas,]254
[Dressed for the Day,]259
[Along the Military Road—A Ceiba Tree,]263
[The Bay of Mariel,]266
[Wreck of the Alfonso XII,]270
[Key West Light—The Southern Extremity of the United States,]277
[Map of My Journey,]283

ON THE MEXICAN HIGHLANDS