The symptoms of social and political ailment which then discovered themselves to me are now apparent to all the world. And it is this verification of the suggestions of these letters which may now, perhaps, justify their publication.

William Seymour Edwards.

Charleston-Kanawha, West Virginia,

September 1, 1906.

CONTENTS

PAGE
I.[London to Denmark Across the North Sea]1
II.[Esbjerg—Across Jutland, Funen and Zealand, the Little Belt and Big Belt to Copenhagen, and Friends Met Along the Way]7
III.[Copenhagen, a Quaint and Ancient City]15
IV.[Elsinore and Kronborg—An Evening Dinner Party]31
V.[Across the Sund to Sweden and Incidents of Travel to Kristiania]40
VI.[A Day Upon the Rand Fjord—Along the Etna Elv To Frydenlund—Ole Mon Our Driver]51
VII.[A Drive Along the Baegna Elv—the Aurdals Vand and Many More to Skogstad]60
VIII.[Over the Height of Land—A Wonderful Ride Down the Laera Dal to the Sogne Fjord]68
IX.[A Day Upon the Sogne Fjord]75
X.[From Stalheim to Eida—The Waterfall of Skjerve Fos—The Mighty Hardanger Fjord]80
XI.[The Buarbrae and Folgefonden Glaciers—Cataracts and Mountain Tarns—Odda to Horre]89
XII.[Over the Lonely Haukeli Fjeld—Witches and Pixies, and Maidens Milking Goats]96
XIII.[Descending from the Fjelde—The Telemarken Fjords—The Arctic Twilight]106
XIV.[Kristiania to Stockholm—A Wedding Party—Differing Norsk and Swede]118
XV.[Stockholm the Venice of the North—Life and Color of the Swedish Capital—Manners of the People and their King]128
XVI.[How We Entered Russia—The Passport System—Difficult to Get Into Russia and More Difficult to Get Out]136
XVII.[St. Petersburg—The Great Wealth of the Few—The Bitter Poverty of the Many—Conditions Similar to Those Preceding the French Revolution]148
XVIII.[En Route to Moscow—Under Military Guard—Suspected of Designs on Life of the Czar]158
XIX.[Our Arrival at Moscow—Splendor and Squalor—Enlightenment and Superstition—Russia Asiatic Rather Than European]167
XX.[The Splendid Pageant of the Russian Mass—The Separateness of Russian Religious Feeling From Modern Thought—Russia Mediaeval and Pagan]180
XXI.[The First Snows—Moscow to Warsaw—Fat Farm Lands and Frightful Poverty of the Mujiks Who Own them and Till them—I Recover My Passport]189
XXII.[The Slav and the Jew—The Slav’s Envy and Jealousy of the Jew]201
XXIII.[Across Germany and Holland to England—A Hamburg Wein Stube—The “Simple Fisher-Folk” of Maarken—Two Gulden at Den Haag]214
XXIV.[Map of North Europe.]
[Map of Scandinavia and Baltic Russia, in profile.]

ILLUSTRATIONS

OPPOSITE
PAGE
[The Author]Frontispiece
[The Naero—Sogne Fjord]1
[The North Sea]3
[The Docks, Esbjerg]5
[Our Danish Railway Carriage]7
[My Instructor in Danish]10
[Our Danish Friends]12
[The Krystal Gade and Round Tower, Copenhagen]14
[The Oestergade]16
[The Royal Theatre, Copenhagen]17
[The Exchange, Copenhagen]19
[The Gammel Strand]23
[Along the Quays, Copenhagen]26
[An Ancient Moat, Now the Lovely Oersteds Park]30
[A Vista of the Sund]32
[Elsinore]33
[The Sund from Kronborg’s Ramparts]35
[The Fishing Boats, Elsinore]37
[A Snap-shot for a Dime, Kronborg]39
[Kronborg]41
[Karl Johans Gade, Kristiania]42
[Vegetable Market, Kristiania]44
[Kristiania, A View of the City]46
[Our Norwegian Train]48
[Along the Etna Elv]50
[Hailing our Steamer, The Rand Fjord]51
[The Old Salt]53
[Ole Mon]55
[Feeding the Ponies, Tomlevolden]58
[Church of Vestre Slidre]58
[The Distant Snows]60
[The Baegna Elv]62
[The Granheims Vand]63
[A Herd of Cows, Fosheim]63
[A Hamlet Beneath the Fjeld]65
[The Author by the Slidre Vand]67
[Ricking the Rye]67
[The Protected Road]69
[Three Thousand Feet of Waterfall]71
[Our Little Ship, Laerdalsoeren]74
[The Sogne Fjord—Along the Sogne Fjord]76
[Sudals Gate, on the Sogne Fjord]78
[The Naerodal]80
[Greeting our Boat, Aurland]83
[The Hardanger Fjord]85
[The Soer Fjord—Hardanger]87
[Commingling Lote and Skars Fos]90
[The Espelands Fos]90
[Glacier of Buarbrae]92
[The Gors Vand]92
[The Descending Road to Horre]94
[A Mile Stone]97
[Cattle on the Haukeli Fjeld]97
[The Desolate Haukeli Fjeld]99
[Norse Maiden Milking Goat (2 illustrations)]103
[Our Hostesses, Haukeli-Saeter]106
[A Norse Cabin]106
[A Goat Herd’s Saeter]110
[Haukeli-Saeter]110
[Tending the Herds]112
[Drying Out the Oats]112
[Dalen on the Bandaks Vand]115
[Norse Women Raking Hay]117
[Stockholm]119
[King’s Palace, Stockholm]122
[Ancient Swedish Fortress]124
[A Swedish Church]124
[A Band of Swedish Horses]126
[The Shore of Lake Maelaren, Stockholm]129
[Cathedral of Riddarsholm]131
[Norrbro, Stockholm]133
[Facing the Gale]140
[The Pier, Helsingfors]142
[Fishing Boats Along the Quay, Helsingfors]142
[Market Square, Helsingfors]144
[The Doebln at her Pier, Helsingfors]144
[A Wild Sea—Leaving Helsingfors]145
[Fishing Boats at Mouth of the Neva]145
[Entering the Neva]149
[Along the Neva]149
[Our Droschky, St. Petersburg]151
[Along the Nevsky-Prospekt]151
[Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan]154
[Our Squealing Stallions]154
[Our Izvostchik]156
[Our Landau, St. Petersburg]160
[A Noble’s Troika, St. Petersburg]161
[The Railway Porters, St. Petersburg]161
[Our Military Guard, Bargaining for Apples]165
[The Holy Savior Gate, Kremlin]165
[Along the Gostinoi Dvor, Moscow]167
[Cathedral of the Assumption, Kremlin]167
[The Red Square, Moscow]170
[Begging Pilgrims, St. Basil]170
[Cathedral of St. Basil the Blessed, Moscow]172
[Ancient Pavements, Moscow]176
[Bread Vendors, Moscow]176
[The Kremlin beyond the Moskva]179
[Cathedral of St. Savior]181
[A Tram-Car, Moscow]188
[The Out-of-Works]188
[Cemetery, Novo Dievitchy]190
[Monastery Church, Novo Dievitchy]190
[Holy Beggar, Novo Dievitchy]191
[The Kremlin Beneath the Snows]193
[A Station Stop, En Route to Warsaw]197
[Catching a Kopeek—A Beggar]204
[A Cold Day]208
[Along the River Moskva, Moscow]209
[A Russian Jew]211
[Jewish Types, taken in Russia]213
[Jewish Types, taken in America]213
[A Dainty Nurse-maid, Berlin]215
[Hamburg Street Traffic]218
[Our Bill of Fare]220
[A Gentleman of Maarken]222
[A Kinder of Maarken]222
[Among Vrow and Kinderen, Maarken]224
[A Load of Hay, Holland]227
[Along the Zuyder Zee]227
[The Fish Market, Den Haag]228
[The Gossips, Den Haag]228
[A Watery Lane, Den Haag]229
[Dutch Toilers]229
[Map of North Europe.]
[Map of Scandinavia and Baltic Russia, in profile.]