[1] The reverses of the Japanese War, the assassination of Governor Bobrikoff and threat of revolution have at last frightened the Russian Autocracy into partially restoring to Finland her pillaged liberties.
It was middle afternoon when we set sail again. No other vessel dared leave the port, but our Captain, being anxious to reach St. Petersburg, decided to venture on the voyage. As soon as we emerged from the protecting barriers of the islands at the harbor’s mouth, we came into open waters. A furious sea was running and the ship rolled heavily. She plunged and reared and pitched, until most of the passengers were driven to their staterooms,—indeed, so mad was now the sea that we were told there would be no more hot coffee and hot steak, since the cooks in the kitchen could not keep their legs, nor could dishes be set upon the tipping tables. Those who were able to eat might get a snack from the steward, who would hand it out—cold fish and cheese at that. The boat rolled until her gunwales were awash, and frequently the roaring waters swept across the decks. Although it was a wild and dangerous night, yet the clouds were parting and the stars were out. No grander panorama of the sea have I looked upon than these mighty foam-capped billows—greater even than our ship,—between which we hid, and on the summits of which we climbed,—the angry, pitch-black waters, the star-lit firmament, and the serene moon shining with fullest splendor.
THE DOEBLN AT HER PIER, HELSINGFORS.
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MARKET SQUARE, HELSINGFORS.
At dawn on Tuesday morning, we passed the great naval fortification of Kronstadt, and three hours later, after threading our way among fishing boats, were entering the canal which leads from the gulf of Finland to the river Neva and the city of St. Petersburg.
South and east of us, behind low shores, the land stretched away green and flat as far as the eye could see, an apparently indefinitely extending plain. Only the glint of a gilded oriental dome, the bulbous cupola of a Russian village church, lightened here and there the green monotony. Then far to the east we saw not one but many domes glittering and flashing in the light of the lifting sun—the gilded towers of the cathedrals and churches of the city of St. Petersburg—then we saw a tangle of tall chimneys, then ships and barks and schooners and enormous barges from Lake Ladoga, and immense docks on either side. We were upon the river Neva. We were come to the city of “Petersborg,” the splendid capital of the Russian Czars.
Just as we were entering the canal, a steam-tug came up alongside us and a company of government officials in long gray coats climbed on board. They were the customs inspectors and officers of the police department. The two chief officials seated themselves at a long table. An officer of the ship directed the passengers to form in a queue, and one by one we appeared before the official examiner, while the Captain called off our names, reading the list from a little book. When my name was announced a clerk handed one of the officials a passport. It was numbered—my name was upon it—it had been received in St. Petersburg from the messenger who left Hangoe Sunday morning;—it had been filed with the police department; it had been viséed; it had been translated into Russian, and the official now read over the description to his assistants;—I was scrutinized,—the passport was found correct—the officials so endorsed it and handed it to me. The passenger immediately behind me, seemingly, did not correspond with his passport, and was directed to stand to one side. There were a number of these, who were to have a difficult time with the authorities. Our baggage was also examined, but not closely. With the Russian official the main thing is the passport, not the baggage.
A WILD SEA—LEAVING HELSINGFORS.
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FISHING BOATS, MOUTH OF RIVER NEVA.
We were now arrived at the pier and were ready to go ashore. Two sailors carried our small steamer trunk upon the wharf, and we were in St. Petersburg. Instantly we were surrounded by a howling mob of bearded, blond-headed, dressing-gown-coated men, clamoring for our fares. They were izvostchiks in their native kaftans. I beckoned to one of them, and pointed to our trunk. He lifted it to his shoulder and led us to his droschky,—a diminutive open vehicle, much like a small sledge on wheels. We entered it and in a moment were galloping through the streets of the city, the driver constantly shouting to his horse and yelling to all foot-farers to get out of the way. I gave him the name of our destination, Hotel de l’Europe. He seemed to comprehend my meaning, and never drew rein until we stopped before the imposing entrance of that hostelry.