When we were allowed liberty on shore again, we took as much salt beef, bread, and water, as we could carry without detection, and started for the woods, which lay but a short distance from the shore; they were about two miles wide; beyond them lay an immense sand plain or desert, without bush or shrub of any kind. The light drifting sand soon obliterated all traces of life. On we wandered, hoping soon to reach the opposite side, but hope soon failed; we had lost sight of the woods: to retrace our steps was now utterly impossible—our footprints were no longer visible—we now realized the true character of our situation—parched with thirst—worn with fatigue—amidst an ocean of sand, where neither shrub, or cooling stream appeared to cheer the lonely wanderer. We sat ourselves sat down upon the burning sand, beneath a torrid sun, and partook of such as we had. The quantity of water being small, we were obliged to use it sparingly. The saltness of the meat greatly increased our thirst; we at length fell in with our own footprints, nearly filled with sand. We sat down in despair; the sun having now passed the meridian, served as a compass, which we followed, until it sank beneath the horizon; night came, and found us still hungry and shelterless. Having eaten our last morsel, and drank our last drop of water, we lay down upon the sand, fatigued almost beyond endurance; so excessive was our thirst, that we slept but very little. We spread our flannel shirts upon the sand, and when they were saturated with dew, (the dews of the country are very heavy, and supply the deficiency of rains, which seldom appear) we would wring them, and suck the moisture; this being often repeated, alleviated our thirst somewhat. No mind can form any description, or form to itself any definite idea of our situation. Most sincerely we repented the course we had taken, and anxiously sought to retrace our steps. With joy we welcomed the approach of morning, hoping that ere another day should pass, we should be able to find some means of rescue from our horrible situation. We traveled until mid-day, almost crazed with the heat of the sun upon the head; and our tongues were so swollen as to render our mouths hardly able to contain them. We sat down half inclined to give up, and leave our bones to whiten the sands. Driven to the last extremity, we resorted to the use of our own urine, for the alleviation of our thirst; this was repeated frequently. Summoning new courage, we started again: after wandering a long time, we fell in with the tracks of a horse or mule. So excessive was our joy at this discovery, that we almost forgot our fatigue, and bounded forward with delight. Our joy however, was soon at an end. for the tracks were obliterated, and we were as bad off as before, and worse even; for having seen the light, the darkness was still deeper. We found, and lost it alternately for some time. Night again spread her sable mantle around our wretchedness. With the closest scrutiny we followed the tracks; about midnight, (as near as we could judge), one of my companions, lustily as his swollen tongue and debilitated condition would allow, cried "land ahead," much to our joy. On we passed, and found it to be low shrubbery, about three feet high. Again we lost the tracks, but this we did not mind, so rejoiced were we to find any living thing.
Falling in with a small path, we followed it with the greatest avidity. As we went on, the path increased in size. Soon we heard the loud barking of a dog; never before was such a welcome so well received.
This induced us to quicken our pace, believing we were near habitations of some kind, little caring what. But a short time elapsed before we came upon a house, evidently the residence of a Spaniard. A few loud knocks at the door sufficed to arouse the inmates, who cried lustily in Spanish, "Who is there? what do you want?" Fortunately for us, one of our number understood the language sufficiently well to make our wants known. With the true generosity of the Spaniard his house was immediately opened, and we were welcome to such as he had, viz: dried beef and milk: this, to the half famished wanderer, was a repast of the choicest kind. Fatigued and enfeebled as we were, great was the danger of our eating too much: this, reason strongly pointed out to us, but appetite got the ascendency, and before we were aware of it we were in as great danger from excess as before from deprivation and fatigue. Again our host befriended us, rendering us all needed assistance. His repeated kindnesses induced us to place unlimited confidence in him; we told him of our deserting the ship, and of our future plans. He cunningly proposed, when we were sufficiently recovered, to take a ride to St. Augustine, which lay seventeen miles from Payta. We mounted the asses and proceeded on the way. When we arrived there we were given up to the governor as deserters, and confined. The Spaniard received a reward for delivering us up to the proper authorities. This we could not approve, though it was acting in conformity with the laws of his country. The next morning we were fitted out for Payta, guarded by six Spanish soldiers, all on asses. Our route lay along the coast, and was indeed very pleasant. Forgetting almost entirely our extreme suffering on the plain, we hardly realized that we were prisoners strongly guarded, so merrily we passed along. The soldiers were themselves very joyful.
On our arrival at Payta, we were thrown into prison for safe keeping. Our captain was then notified of our apprehension, and came to see us, and asked us if we were willing to go to our duty like faithful men. That we assured him we would most certainly do. Manifesting much indifference he turned away, saying he would see what the charges were, and think about releasing us. The prison into which we were thrown was of the most filthy kind; my mind recoils with horror at the thought of it. We passed the night without closing our eyes to sleep. Rats of enormous size were jumping around us all night, and anxiously we waited for morning. The next morning breakfast was served, consisting of jerk beef, brown bread, and cold water. So loathsome was the place that we would almost have rather starved than eaten there. Giving our allowance to our fellow-prisoners, we waited in anxious expectation for the re-appearance of the captain, expecting, or at least hoping he would bring a release. At length he came, having paid twenty-five dollars for us. We went on board again perfectly contented, having paid, as we thought, dearly as deserters.
I propose here giving a hasty geographical and historical sketch of Peru, but owing to the insufficient time allotted common sailors for getting any definite idea of the countries which they may visit, I shall be obliged to couple the statements of others with my own observation. The territory comprising it is 230,000 square miles in area. The Andes range of mountains extend through this country, the highest point of which is 22,000 feet above the valley of Chuquibamba. The celebrated volcano known as Omati has an elevation exceeding 18,000 feet. In the eastern Andes remains of mining excavations are found at an elevation of 16,600 ft. They were wrought by the Peruvians under the Incas, long before the arrival of the Spaniards. The entry to the gallery of San Miguel and of Pomare, is close to the region of eternal snow. Intersecting the country in different directions are other ranges of mountains, which do not properly belong to the Andes; these are of various extent and height. Exclusive of Peru proper, which is merely a narrow strip, and also of the various chains of mountains which contain between them broad and extensive valleys, watered by gigantic streams, this country contains immense plains, or pampas, as they are called by the Spanish, extending from Montana Real as far east as the Portuguese frontier 600 miles, in direct distance, and in some places in equal breadth. The Maranon rolls its mighty waters through the centre of this continental steppe; and these plains are so abundantly watered, that they are everywhere fertile, and clothed with impenetrable forests. The most noted of these plains contains more than 60,000 square miles; and is capable of supporting 5,000,000 inhabitants. It is called the "Steppe of the Holy Sacrament."
The mighty river Amazon, or Maranon, rises in this country, among the Andes, in a number of head streams. Those streams which empty into the Pacific, flowing from the western side of the Andes, are of but little importance, being quite small in size. The climate of the country is variable; that of the Coast or Low Peru, is dry and temperate; that of the Sierras mild, that of the Andes piercingly cold; and that of the Pampas warm, and exceedingly humid. The climate of the Sierras is perhaps the most healthy in the world, if we can judge from the long life of its inhabitants. Persons are often found living at the age of 120, and sometimes reach the extreme age of 150 years. A Spaniard died in the year 1765, in the province of Caxamarea, aged 144 years, 7 months, and 5 days, leaving 800 lineal descendants. But such extreme age is by no means common to the whole country. The climate of the Pampas is far from being healthy. The warmth and extreme humidity render them almost uninhabitable, and the few Indian tribes on the rivers rarely see a man of the age of fifty. In the uplands of this country, the soil is somewhat fertile, but owing to the almost insuperable barriers to communication with the coast, agriculture is generally speaking in a wretched state.
Abundance of cotton in a wild state is found in the Montana Real, and on the banks of the Maranon. Flax is common, but the Indians leave the stems to perish, and make a kind of beer of the seeds. In some districts a species of coffee, and cochineal abound, but the quality is not the best. The pimento of Peru is excessively strong, and there is cinnamon stronger than that of Ceylon, though not so valuable for use. A great variety of aromatic balsams, oils, and gums, distilled from the trees are produced here. In the description of Peru, Estalla enumerates the cedar, the olive, the wild orange, the incorruptible algorob, the palm, the willow, and many other trees. On the coast, and western slopes of the Andes, are produced the cabbage-palm, the cocoa-nut, the chocolate-nut, the cotton-shrub, the pineapple, tumeric, plantain, and sugar-cane. No less than twenty-four species of pepper are raised in Peru. Tobacco and jalap grow in abundance at the foot of the Andes. The chief shrubs on the uplands of the Andes are the different species of cinchonas, or the salutary Peruvian bark. The mountains abound in metalic wealth. They are interspersed with veins of gold and of silver ore, in which pieces of pure silver, solid copper, and lead ore occur, frequently intermixed with white silver ore, and virgin silver, in threads. In many parts are rich veins of gold ore in quartz, and gold is also obtained by washing the mud found in the beds of the rivers. Many of the silver mines are neglected, owing to their being inundated by water, which has continued to gain on them so as to completely choke them.