What became of the Irishman I never knew, as he took a different course from the rest of us after leaving the fort.
Nothing of note occurred until we were off the coast of Peru and dropped our anchor at Callao, the seaport of Lima, the capital of Peru, which is situated seven miles from the shore. After the ship was well secured, a ride was proposed to Lima, in which several of us joined. We proceeded to a stable in which were a great number of horses, trained to the saddle alone. Each procured one by paying a dollar in advance, with which a ticket also was obtained for entrance into the city. Those horses were so well trained that they required no guidance whatever; by simply throwing the line upon the neck loosely, they set off into a fine gallop, which they held till they reached the city.
On starting we received an urgent injunction to "look well to the saddle," they care but little about the horse. Arriving at the gates of the city, a sentry appeared who demanded our tickets, which, after examining, he handed back and allowed us to pass on. The horses setting off at full gallop soon brought us to another stable, which is connected with the one at which we obtained our horses. Here we dismounted, giving ourselves no farther trouble about them. We wandered around the city as long as we chose. When returning to the stable we found our horses refreshed, with no additional expense, and ready to take us back to Callao.
The waters of the Rimac, on which Lima is situated, are clear and transparent. The city is four miles long, by two broad, and is surrounded by brick walls, which are heavily mounted with cannon.
This city, next to Mexico, is the finest built by the Spaniards in the New World; its streets are straight and handsome; the houses are built only of one story, on account of earthquakes by which they are frequented. Lima was founded by Pizarro in 1534, and by him called Los Reges, or the "City of the Kings." Like all other Spanish cities, Lima has a great square in the centre, where all the principal streets terminate. On this square the principal public buildings stand; such as the cathedral, the university, the treasury, the arsenal, and the town hall.
The churches and convents are still beautiful, though robbed of vast wealth during the last revolution. It is estimated that about one-fourth of the population are whites.
Leaving Callao we had a fine breeze, set studding-sails alow and aloft. When abreast Valparaiso, the wind veered around into the south and blew a stiff breeze, which obliged us to lay off and on for a few days. The wind dying away, we put into the harbor of Valparaiso, which is the most singular one I ever entered. The water is of vast depth, being upwards of fifty fathoms within a short distance of the town. We spent some little time on shore, which we enjoyed very finely indeed; found the natives kind and hospitable. The men follow the European fashion of dress, while the females adhere strictly to that of Peru. Many of the common and lower classes wear the ponsha, which is simply a large cloth with a hole in it for the neck. In the use of the lasso they equal if not excel any other people, throwing it with the greatest precision. Children at an early age practice the lasso upon poultry and cats, which they throw with unerring aim.
By the gradual change in the temperature of the atmosphere we were forcibly reminded of nearness to the Cape, which we were again to double. Finding the quantity of spirits on hand insufficient as we then thought for the occasion, we told the captain we would not double the Cape with so small a supply. Against this he remonstrated. We urged him to compliance.
After spending a week at Valparaiso, we left the harbor and stood at sea with a fair wind from the west; thus we ran about thirty-six hours, when the wind hauled into the north.