Although during the former period of prosperity in the hat business of Baltimore, felt hats only were manufactured, which business was completely reduced by the unfortunate conditions existing at the time of the Civil War; its revival came through the establishing of a different branch, that of the manufacture of straw hats; and while Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co. have lately entered extensively into the manufacture of silk and felt hats also, it is the purpose of this article to dwell more particularly upon facts relating to the straw hat branch that has contributed so largely in bringing Baltimore once again forward as a leading hat manufacturing city.
Prior to 1860 Messrs. Wm. P. Cole & Son, then manufacturers and jobbers, became especially interested in the straw goods branch of their business. Being at that time manufacturers of the best class of felt hats, the straw goods sold by them were all made in the factories of the North. Machines for sewing the straw braid were not then in use, and much of the straw products of foreign countries came ready sewed in shapes that were very irregular in proportions and sizes. The looseness of the stitches in sewing rendered the use of glue a necessity in the manufacture of the hats, producing an article of headwear that gave but little comfort. Suggestions for improvements were given the manufacturers, who adopted them with advantage to themselves. The first suggestion made by the Baltimore firm was an improvement in the appearance of the hat by trimming it with wider bands. At that time the use of bands about 14 lines wide was prevalent, and the adoption of 23-line bands was looked upon as a very radical departure. The substitution of leather sweats for those of oil muslin was also first undertaken by the Baltimore firm; following which, the most important improvement ever gained in the production of straw goods was conceived and executed in this city, which was the abandonment of the heavy glue-sizing and the manufacture of the comfortable "flexible finish" straw hat, an accomplishment secured by careful attention to the proper sewing of the goods aided by hand finish.
For several years Wm. P. Cole & Son and their successors had straw hats of their own designing made and finished at the North, continuing to suggest improvements which were made at their command, and the privilege of retaining which for their own trade was for the time extended to them by the manufacturers, from which they gained such advantages as would arise from having goods superior to and differing from the general class sold by others.
It was in the year 1875, upon the dissolution of the firm of Cole, Brigham & Co., that Mr. W.T. Brigham and Mr. R.D. Hopkins, uniting as the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, became straw hat manufacturers. The Mackinaw straw hat had at this time gained well in popularity; the natural firmness and flexibility of the Mackinaw were merits particularly acceptable to the trade, and the new firm made a careful study of embodying as far as possible in the manufacture of all their straw hats, those essential points possessed by the Mackinaw. So successful were their efforts that, by the exercise of thorough watchfulness, they continued to improve, until they secured for their products a celebrity that gave the firm the foremost position in the trade.
Following the onward movement of the straw hat business in Baltimore since its first introduction (less than twenty years ago), it is interesting to watch its constant and steady growth, and to observe the advance that has been accomplished. Even before Messrs. Brigham & Hopkins entered upon the business, a great improvement in the straw goods had already been made through the favorable impetus imparted by their predecessors. Straw hats which from a lack of style and comfort had heretofore played a secondary part in the conditions of man's costume, were so much improved in style and finish as to be accepted as a desirable article of dress, thus an increased demand was created for them.
To still further improve the straw hat, and as near as possible secure perfection, was the aim of the Baltimore manufacturers.
Entering the field with the commendable object of producing a class of goods that should be recognized as the best, Messrs. Brigham & Hopkins, abandoning traditional ways, commenced their work upon a thoroughly independent basis; copying after none, but relying upon their own ingenuity; striving to improve upon every last effort, observing and studying the wants and needs of their customers, they continued to put forth a class of goods bearing an undoubted stamp of originality, which, being supplemented by excellent workmanship and the use of good materials, resulted in securing a large patronage, and brought to them a constantly increasing trade. In this way did the firm secure a recognized position at the head of the straw hat industry of the country, and gained for their products a reputation for excellence in style and finish that is widespread over the whole country. American manufacturers had a long and tedious struggle in their efforts to overcome the prejudices of the people existing in favor of foreign productions, but steady endeavors to win the approval of Americans for American made hats have scored a genuine success, and the American gentleman of to-day may take a just pride in wearing a straw hat of Baltimore make—one not to be excelled.
