It was a fascinating task to trace the story of her existence in its many phases, largely of vicissitude, from the days of Diego Velasquez to those of Mario Menocal. But that after all was a record of what has been, of what has largely passed away. More welcome is it to contemplate what Cuba actually is, in present realization and achievement, and to scan with sane and discriminating vision the prospect of what she may be and what, we may well believe with confidence, she will be. It is to reveal the actual Cuba of to-day, and to suggest the surely promised Cuba of to-morrow, that these pages are written. So far as they may seem technical and statistical, their very dryness contains a potency of suggestion surpassing the dreams of romance. So far as they may seem touched with imagination, speculation, enthusiasm, they are still based upon the practical and indubitable foundation of ascertained facts. Their aim is to present to the world an accurate, comprehensive and sympathetic living picture of the Twentieth Century Republic of Cuba, and as such they are submitted to the reader with a cheerful confidence, if not always in the adequacy of its treatment, at least in the unfailing interest and merit of the theme.
January, 1920.
WILLIS FLETCHER JOHNSON.
CONTENTS
| PAGE | ||
| [Chapter I]. The People of Cuba | [1] | |
| The People of Cuba—Hospitality Their Characteristic—Love ofChildren—Founders of the Cuban Nation from the SouthernProvinces of Spain—An Admixture of French Blood—Immigrationfrom Northern Spain—English, Irish, Italian and GermanImmigrants—Colonists from the United States. | ||
| [Chapter II]. The Topography of Cuba | [10] | |
| The Topography of Cuba—Five Distinct Zones—The MountainRanges—Plateaus and Plains—The Highest Peak in Cuba—TheOrgan Mountains—Beautiful Valleys and Fertile Plains—Actionof the Water Courses—Character of the Soil. | ||
| [Chapter III]. The Climate of Cuba | [19] | |
| The Climate of Cuba—Freedom from Extremes of Temperature—Influenceof the Trade Winds—No Ice and Little Frost—TheRainy Season and the Dry Season—Gloomy Days PracticallyUnknown. | ||
| [Chapter IV]. Province of Havana | [21] | |
| The Province of Havana—The Pivotal Province of the Island—Visitsby Columbus and Velasquez—Topography of the Province—Soiland Products—Agricultural Wealth—The Fruit Industry—Manufacturing—TheHarbor of Havana—Transportation Facilities—TheWater Supply—The Climate—The Seat of Governmentand Social Centre of the Island. | ||
| [Chapter V]. Province of Pinar del Rio | [34] | |
| The Province of Pinar del Rio—A Picturesque Region—InterestingTopography—The Organ Mountains—The Vinales Valley—ARare Palm Tree—Hard Wood Timber—Agriculture—Harborsand Fishing Interests—Tobacco Lands of the VueltaAbajo—Coffee Plantations—Mineral Resources. | ||
| [Chapter VI]. Province of Matanzas | [49] | |
| The Province of Matanzas—Comparatively Unimportant in History—AGreat Drainage and Traffic Canal—Rivers and Mountains—TheCoast and Islands—The Henequen Industry—TheCity of Matanzas—The Caves of Bellamar—Sugar Production—MineralResources. | ||
| [Chapter VII]. Province of Santa Clara | [60] | |
| The Province of Santa Clara—A Land of Great Variety ofScenes—Ancient Gold-Seeking—The Mountain Ranges—RichLands of the Parks and Valleys—Rivers and Lakes—Harbors—Citiesof the Province—The “Swamp of the Shoe”—Forests,Sugar Plantations, Tobacco, and Coffee—Opportunities for StockRaising. | ||
| [Chapter VIII]. Province of Camaguey | [71] | |
| The Province of Camaguey—Where Columbus First Landed—Inthe Days of Velasquez—Events of the Ten Years’ War—Topographyof the Province—Mountain Ranges—Rivers andCoastal Lagoons—Harbors—Lack of Railroads—The Sugar Industry—Minerals—AmericanColonies—Some Noted Men. | ||
| [Chapter IX]. Province of Oriente | [83] | |
| The Province of Oriente—Area and Topography—Mountainsand Rivers—Fine Harbors—Great Sugar Mills—Scene of theFirst Spanish Settlement in Cuba—The Bay of Guantanamo—Santiagode Cuba—Copper Mines—Manzanillo—The Cauto Valley—SugarPlantations and Stock Ranches—Timber and Minerals—AmericanColonies. | ||
| [Chapter X]. The Isle of Pines | [99] | |
| The Isle of Pines—An Integral Part of Cuba—American Settlementsand Claims—Character of the Island—Infertile andStorm Swept—Vast Deposits of Muck—Marble Quarries—Effortsto Promote Agricultural Interests. | ||
| [Chapter XI]. Mines and Mining | [104] | |
| Mines and Mining—The Early Quest of Gold—First Workingof Copper Mines—The Wealth of El Cobre—Copper in All Partsof Cuba—Operations in Pinar del Rio—Vast Iron Deposits inOriente—Nickel and Manganese—Exports of Ore—American Investigationof Chrome Deposits—Many Beds of Great Richness—Manganeseand Chrome for All the World. | ||
| [Chapter XII]. Asphalt and Petroleum | [126] | |
| Asphalt and Petroleum—Ocampo’s Early Discovery at PuertoCarenas—Humboldt’s Reports of Petroleum Wells—Prospectingfor Oil in Many Places—Some Promising Wells—Asphalt Depositsof Great Value—Prospects for Important Petroleum Developments. | ||
| [Chapter XIII]. Forestry | [135] | |
| Forestry—Vast Resources of Fine Woods Recklessly Squanderedin Early Times—Houses Built of Mahogany—Hundreds of Varietiesof Valuable Timber Trees—A Catalogue of Sixty of theMost Useful—Need of Transportation for the Lumber Trade—ForestsOwned by the State. | ||
| [Chapter XIV]. Agriculture | [144] | |
| Agriculture—The Chief Interest of Cuba—Fertility of Soil,Geniality of Climate, and Variety of Products—The Rainfall—ManyFarmers Specialists—The Government’s Experimental Station—Opportunitiesfor Stock-Raising—Work of the Departmentof Agriculture—Its Various Bureaus—Value of ExperimentalWork Begun by General Wood and Extended by PresidentMenocal—Improving Live Stock—Fruit Growing—Grains andGrasses—Combating Insect Pests—Bureau of Plant Sanitation. | ||
| [Chapter XV]. Sugar | [160] | |
| “King Cane”—Cuba’s Crop and the World’s Production—NaturalConditions Favorable to Sugar Culture—Extent of LandsStill Available—The “Savana” and “Cienaga” Lands—AssuredProjects for Draining Great Swamps—Potential Increase ofSugar Production in Cuba—Methods of Planting, Culture andHarvesting—The Labor Problem—Improved Machinery—SomethingAbout the Principal Sugar Producing Concerns in Cubaand the Men Who Have Created Them and Are Directing Them—TheLargest Sugar Company in the World—Cuba’s AssuredRank as the World’s Chief Sugar Plantation. | ||
| [Chapter XVI]. Tobacco | [183] | |
| The Tobacco Industry—First European Acquaintance with thePlant—The Famous Fields of the Vuelta Abajo—Immense Productivity—Methodsof Culture and Harvesting—Various Regionsof Tobacco Culture—Insect Pests—Wholesale Use of CheeseclothCanopies—Monetary Importance of the Industry. | ||
| [Chapter XVII]. Henequen | [190] | |
| The Henequen Industry—The Source of Binding Twine for theWheat Fields—Cuban Plantations Now Surpassing Those ofYucatan—Methods of Growth and Manufacture—Magnitude ofthe Industry and Possibilities of Further Extension. | ||
| [Chapter XVIII]. Coffee | [197] | |
| The Coffee Industry—Early Plantations Which Were Neglectedand Abandoned—An Attractive Industry—Methods of Culture—Harvestingand Marketing the Crop—Government EncouragementBeing Given for Extension of the Industry.[Chapter XIX]. The Mango | [203] | |
| The Mango—The King of Oriental Fruits—Two Distinct Typesin Cuba—All Varieties Prolific—The Trees and the Fruits—Someof the Favorite Varieties—Marketing and Use. | ||
| [Chapter XX]. Citrus Fruits | [211] | |
| Citrus Fruits—American Introduction of the Commercial Industry—Varietiesof Oranges—Comparison with Florida and CaliforniaFruit—Grape Fruit in the Isle of Pines—Limes and WildOranges. | ||
| [Chapter XXI]. Bananas, Pineapples and Other Fruits | [219] | |
| Antiquity and Universality of the Banana—Its Many Uses—CommercialCultivation in Cuba—Methods of Culture—Varieties—PineappleCulture in Cuba—One of the Staple Crops—Difficultyof Marketing—The Canning Industry—The Fruit ofthe Anon—The Zapote or Sapodilla—The Tamarind—TheMamey—The Guava—The Mamoncillo—Figs of All Varieties—TheAguacate. | ||
| [Chapter XXII]. Grapes, Cacao, and Vanilla | [232] | |
| Grape Culture Discouraged by Spain—Recent Development ofthe Industry—Much Wine Drinking but Little Drunkenness—Foodand Drink in the Cacao—The Chocolate Industry—Cultureand Manufacture of Cacao—The Vanilla Bean—Methods ofGathering and Preparing the Crop. | ||
| [Chapter XXIII]. Vegetable Growing | [240] | |
| Vegetable Growing in Cuba—Regions Most Suitable for theIndustry—Seed Brought from the United States—Winter Cropsof Potatoes—Green Peppers a Profitable Crop—Cultivation ofTomatoes and Egg Plants—Okra—Lima Beans and StringBeans—Squashes and Pumpkins—Desirability of the CanningIndustry—Utility of Irrigation—Prospects of Profit in TruckFarming. | ||
| [Chapter XXIV]. Standard Grains and Forage | [248] | |
| Indian Corn Indigenous—Improvements in Culture Desirable—Milletor Kaffir Corn—Neglect of Wheat Growing—Culture ofUpland Rice—Possibilities of Swamp Rice Culture—Profusionof Meadow and Pasture Grasses—Experiments with Alfalfa—Cultivationof Cow Peas and Beans—Peanut Plantations. | ||
| [Chapter XXV]. Animals | [257] | |
| Paucity of Native Fauna—Deer, Caprimys and Ant Eaters—TheSand Hill Crane—Guinea Fowls, Turkeys and Quails—Buzzards,Sparrow Hawks, Mocking Birds and Wild Pigeons—Varietiesof Parrots—The Oriole—The Tody—The LizardCuckoo—The Trogon—Water Birds. | ||
| [Chapter XXVI]. Stock Raising | [263] | |
| Introduction of Horses and Cattle by the Spaniards—Improvementin the Quality of Stock—A Favorable Land for CattleRanges—Importation of Blooded Stock from the United Statesand Europe—Introduction of the Zebu—Great Profits in HogRaising—Forage, Nuts and Root Crops for Stock Food—Sheepand Goat Raising for Wool, Meat and Hides—Value of the AngoraGoat. | ||
| [Chapter XXVII]. Poultry: Bees: Sponges | [278] | |
| Recent Scientific Development of the Poultry Industry—PresidentMenocal’s Importations of Choice Stock—Opportunities forAgriculture—Wild and Domesticated Bees—Varieties of HoneyYielding Flowers—Large Exportations of Wax and Honey—ValuableSponge Fisheries on the Cuban Coast. | ||
| [Chapter XXVIII]. Places of Historical Interest | [284] | |
| Historic Interest of Havana Harbor—The Romance and Tragedyof El Morro—“The Twelve Apostles”—The Vast Fortressof La Cabaña—The “Road Without Hope”—A Scene ofSlaughter—Cells of the Fortress Prison—The Castillo de Punta—TheAncient City Walls—The Romance of La Fuerza—AncientChurches and Convents of Havana—The Cathedral andthe Tomb of Columbus—The San Francisco Convent—SanAgustin—La Merced—Santa Catalina—Santo Angel—Santa Clara—TheConvent of Belen—The Old Echarte Mansion—LaChorrera—Fort Cojimar—Some Ancient Watch Towers andFortresses—The Botanical Gardens. | ||
| [Chapter XXIX]. Havana | [303] | |
| The Charms of Havana—Early History of the City—Made theCapital of Cuba—The Quarries from Which It Was Built—SomethingAbout Its Principal Streets and Buildings—VariousSections of the City—On the Road to the Almandares—PrincipeHill—The University of Havana—The Famous Prado—TheNational Theatre—The Central Park and Parque de Colon—ColonCemetery—Music in Havana—Favorite Drives andResorts—The Bathing Beach—Fishing—Jai Alai—Baseball—HorseRacing—Golf—Buildings of the Various Government Departments—Memoriesof the Old Presidential Palace—SomeFine New Buildings—The New Presidential Palace—The NewCapitol—The National Hospital. | ||
| [Chapter XXX]. A Paradise of Palm Drives | [326] | |
| A Paradise of Palm Drives—Splendor of the Flamboyans—TheRoad to Guines—A Fine Drive to Matanzas—Roads fromHavana to Guanajay, Artemisa and the Ruby Hills—Old MilitaryRoads Improved and Extended—Fine Drives in Pinar delRio—The Valley of Vinales—Some Wonderful Landscapes andSeascapes—Roads Radiating from Matanzas—The Roads ofSanta Clara and Camaguey—Road Making Among the Mountainsof Oriente. | ||
| [Chapter XXXI]. Bays and Harbors | [340] | |
| The Bays and Harbors of the Cuban Coasts—Bahia Honda—Cabanas—Mariel—Havana—Matanzas—TheLand-Locked Bayof Cardenas—Santa Clara Bay—Sagua—Caibarien—The Bay ofNuevitas—Manati—Puerto Padre—Gibara—Banes—Nipe—Levisa—Baracoa—Guantanamo—Santiago—Manzanillo—Cienfuegos—Batabano—SantaCruz—Various Other Ports, Great andSmall. | ||
| [Chapter XXXII]. Railroad Systems in Cuba | [353] | |
| Origin of the Railroad Systems of Cuba—The United Railwaysof Havana—The Matanzas Railway—Electric Lines AroundHavana—The Great Work of Sir William Van Horne—TheCuba Company’s Railroad System—The Cuba Central Road—TheNorth Shore Line—Other Lines and Branches Existing orProjected. | ||
| [Chapter XXXIII]. Money and Banking | [361] | |
| Money and Banking in Cuba—The First Currency of theIsland—The First Monetary Crisis at Havana—Development ofModern Coinage and Currency—Single Standard and DoubleStandard—Colonial Paper Money—Stabilization of Currency UnderAmerican Rule—Statistics of Shipments of Money—Coinageof Cuban Money Under the New System—Financing the ForeignCommerce of the Island. | ||
| [Chapter XXXIV]. Public Instruction | [367] | |
| The Educational System of Cuba—Influences of Clericalism—Workof General Wood and Mr. Frye—Cooperation of HarvardUniversity—Dr. Lincoln de Zayas—The Teaching of English—ProgressUnder President Menocal—Scope of the System—SomeSpecial Schools—Normal Schools—The Institute of Havana—TheNational University—Cooperation with the United States—TheFree Public Library. | ||
| [Chapter XXXV]. Ocean Transportation | [376] | |
| Importance of Ocean Transportation to the Insular Republic—Developmentof the United Fruit Company—The Ward Line andIts Fleet—A Network of Communications with All Parts of theWorld—Service of the Munson Line—The Peninsular and OccidentalCompany—The Railroad Ferry Service from Key Westto Cuba—The Pinillos Izquierdo Line from Spain—The Morganor Southern Pacific Line—The Great Fleet of the CompagnieGeneral Transatlantique—A New Line from Japan—CustomsRegulations—The Consular Service of Cuba. | ||
| [Chapter XXXVI]. American Colonies in Cuba | [390] | |
| American Colonies in Cuba—Founded After the War of Independence—PerniciousActivities of Unscrupulous AmericanSpeculators—Heroic Efforts of Illfounded Colonies—The Storyof La Gloria and Its Neighbors—Colonization of the Isle ofPines—The Colony of Herradura—Various Colonies in Oriente—Inducementsto Further Colonization. | ||
| [INDEX] | ||
ILLUSTRATIONS
| FULL PAGE PLATES | |
| Francisco de Frias | [Frontispiece] |
| FACING PAGE | |
| The Vinales Valley | [36] |
| San Juan River, Matanzas | [54] |
| On the Cauto River | [92] |
| National Theatre, Central Park, Havana | [144] |
| The Gomez Building | [190] |
| Pablo Desvernine | [284] |
| In New Havana | [296] |
| Colon Park | [306] |
| An Avenue of Palms | [326] |
| Grand Central Railway Station, Havana | [354] |
| Leopoldo Cancio | [362] |
| The Chamber of Commerce, Havana | [376] |
| TEXT EMBELLISHMENTS | |
| City Hall and Plaza, Cardenas | [Page 56] |
| A Mountain Road, Oriente | [“ 84] |
| Cuban Rural Home | [“ 145] |
| Fruit Vender, Havana | [“ 209] |