Copyright, 1921, by
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS


Published October, 1921
Reprinted twice in December, 1921

PRINTED AT
THE SCRIBNER PRESS
NEW YORK, U. S. A.

CONTENTS

CHAPTERPAGE
[I.]Westward Ho!1
[II.]From New York to Antoine’s7
[III.]A Long Ways from Home15
[IV.]Chivalry vs. Gumbo25
[V.]Nibbling at the Map of Texas35
[VI.]“Down by the Rio Grande”47
[VII.]Sandstorms, Bandits and Dead Soldiers60
[VIII.]Tucson74
[IX.]Twenty Per Cent Grades, Forty Per Cent
Vanilla
82
[X.]The Apache Trail and Tonto Valley98
[XI.]Friday the Thirteenth121
[XII.]Why Isleta’s Church Has a Wooden
Floor
148
[XIII.]Sante Fé and the Valley of the Rio
Grande
160
[XIV.]Saying Good-by to Bill190
[XV.]Laguna and Acoma204
[XVI.]The Grand Canyon and the Havasupai
Canyon
220
[XVII.]From Williams to Fort Apache234
[XVIII.]The Land of the Hopis244
[XIX.]The Four Corners258
[XX.]Rainbow Bridge270
[XXI.]The Canyon de Chelley296
[XXII.]North of Gallup308
[XXIII.]On National Parks and Guides326
[XXIV.]The Nail-file and the Chippewa346
[XXV.]Homeward Hoboes358

ILLUSTRATIONS

The silver bracelet, Walpi[Frontispiece]
FACING PAGE
Our first camp, Texas[52]
San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson, and the Rapago Indian village[76]
Doorway of San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson[78]
Great rocks seem to float on the stream, mysteriously
lighted, like Böcklin’s isle of the dead
[116]
Natural bridge, Pine, Arizona[118]
The church at Isleta[152]
Her bread was baked, delicious and crusty, in the round outdoor
ovens her grandmothers used as far back as B. C.
or so
[154]
Against a shady wall, all but too lazy to light the inevitable
cigarette, slouches, wherever one turns, a Mexican
[164]
A Mexican morado, New Mexico[166]
The museum of Santa Fé[166]
Santa Domingo woman[176]
Taos woman[176]
Koshari: rain dance: San Yldefonso[176]
Rain dance, San Yldefonso[178]
Cave dwellings in the pumice walls of Canyon de Los Frijoles,
Santa Fé
[182]
Artist’s studio in Taos, New Mexico[188]
Coronado was the first white man to visit this ancient pueblo
at Taos, New Mexico
[188]
The car sagged drunkenly on one side[200]
Fording a river near Santa Fé[200]
On the way to Gallup[200]
Pueblo women grinding corn in metate bins[206]
Pueblo woman wrapping deer-skin leggins[206]
Acoma, New Mexico[212]
Burros laden with fire-wood, Santa Fé, New Mexico[212]
At the foot of the trail, Acoma[214]
The enchanted mesa, Acoma, New Mexico[214]
A street in Acoma, New Mexico[218]
The Acoma Mission, New Mexico[218]
In the Grand Canyon of the Colorado[222]
A Navajo maid on a painted pony[222]
The land of the sky-blue water, Havasupai Canyon, Arizona[224]
Horseman in Havasupai Canyon, Arizona[226]
Panorama of Havasupai Canyon, Arizona[228]
Mooney’s Fall, Havasupai Canyon, Arizona[232]
A trout stream in the White Mountains, Arizona[240]
The village of Walpi[250]
Oldest house in Walpi[250]
Young eaglet captured for use in the Hopi snake-dance
ceremonies
[254]
Second mesa, Hopi Reservation[256]
A Hotavilla Sybil[256]
Navajo Mountain from the mouth of Segi Canyon[278]
Rainbow Bridge Trail near Navajo Mountain[282]
Crossing Bald Rock, on Rainbow Bridge Trail[284]
Rainbow Bridge, Utah[286]
Monument country, Rainbow Trail[294]
Rainbow Bridge Trail[294]
Entrance to the Canyon de Chelley[298]
Quicksand; Canyon de Chelley[300]
Near the entrance of Canyon de Chelley, Arizona[302]
Cliff-dwellings, Canyon de Chelley, Arizona[304]
Casa Blanca, Canyon de Chelley, Arizona[306]
Navajo sheep-dipping at Shiprock[312]
Cliff-dwellings, Mesa Verde Park, Colorado[316]
Shoshones at sun dance, Fort Hall, Idaho[322]
A Shoshone tepee, Fort Hall, Idaho[324]
Camping near Yellowstone Park[328]
Grand Canyon, Yellowstone Park[330]
Glacier Park, Montana[332]
Blackfeet Indians at Glacier Park, Montana[336]
Two Medicine Lake, Glacier Park, Montana[344]
Wrangling horses, Glacier Park, Montana[344]
A Mormon irrigated village[354]
The “Million Dollar” Mormon Temple at Cardston, Alberta,
Canada
[354]

WESTWARD HOBOES

CHAPTER I