Copyright, 1921, by
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
Published October, 1921
Reprinted twice in December, 1921
PRINTED AT
THE SCRIBNER PRESS
NEW YORK, U. S. A.
CONTENTS
| CHAPTER | PAGE | |
| [I.] | Westward Ho! | 1 |
| [II.] | From New York to Antoine’s | 7 |
| [III.] | A Long Ways from Home | 15 |
| [IV.] | Chivalry vs. Gumbo | 25 |
| [V.] | Nibbling at the Map of Texas | 35 |
| [VI.] | “Down by the Rio Grande” | 47 |
| [VII.] | Sandstorms, Bandits and Dead Soldiers | 60 |
| [VIII.] | Tucson | 74 |
| [IX.] | Twenty Per Cent Grades, Forty Per Cent Vanilla | 82 |
| [X.] | The Apache Trail and Tonto Valley | 98 |
| [XI.] | Friday the Thirteenth | 121 |
| [XII.] | Why Isleta’s Church Has a Wooden Floor | 148 |
| [XIII.] | Sante Fé and the Valley of the Rio Grande | 160 |
| [XIV.] | Saying Good-by to Bill | 190 |
| [XV.] | Laguna and Acoma | 204 |
| [XVI.] | The Grand Canyon and the Havasupai Canyon | 220 |
| [XVII.] | From Williams to Fort Apache | 234 |
| [XVIII.] | The Land of the Hopis | 244 |
| [XIX.] | The Four Corners | 258 |
| [XX.] | Rainbow Bridge | 270 |
| [XXI.] | The Canyon de Chelley | 296 |
| [XXII.] | North of Gallup | 308 |
| [XXIII.] | On National Parks and Guides | 326 |
| [XXIV.] | The Nail-file and the Chippewa | 346 |
| [XXV.] | Homeward Hoboes | 358 |
ILLUSTRATIONS
| The silver bracelet, Walpi | [Frontispiece] |
| FACING PAGE | |
| Our first camp, Texas | [52] |
| San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson, and the Rapago Indian village | [76] |
| Doorway of San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson | [78] |
| Great rocks seem to float on the stream, mysteriously lighted, like Böcklin’s isle of the dead | [116] |
| Natural bridge, Pine, Arizona | [118] |
| The church at Isleta | [152] |
| Her bread was baked, delicious and crusty, in the round outdoor ovens her grandmothers used as far back as B. C. or so | [154] |
| Against a shady wall, all but too lazy to light the inevitable cigarette, slouches, wherever one turns, a Mexican | [164] |
| A Mexican morado, New Mexico | [166] |
| The museum of Santa Fé | [166] |
| Santa Domingo woman | [176] |
| Taos woman | [176] |
| Koshari: rain dance: San Yldefonso | [176] |
| Rain dance, San Yldefonso | [178] |
| Cave dwellings in the pumice walls of Canyon de Los Frijoles, Santa Fé | [182] |
| Artist’s studio in Taos, New Mexico | [188] |
| Coronado was the first white man to visit this ancient pueblo at Taos, New Mexico | [188] |
| The car sagged drunkenly on one side | [200] |
| Fording a river near Santa Fé | [200] |
| On the way to Gallup | [200] |
| Pueblo women grinding corn in metate bins | [206] |
| Pueblo woman wrapping deer-skin leggins | [206] |
| Acoma, New Mexico | [212] |
| Burros laden with fire-wood, Santa Fé, New Mexico | [212] |
| At the foot of the trail, Acoma | [214] |
| The enchanted mesa, Acoma, New Mexico | [214] |
| A street in Acoma, New Mexico | [218] |
| The Acoma Mission, New Mexico | [218] |
| In the Grand Canyon of the Colorado | [222] |
| A Navajo maid on a painted pony | [222] |
| The land of the sky-blue water, Havasupai Canyon, Arizona | [224] |
| Horseman in Havasupai Canyon, Arizona | [226] |
| Panorama of Havasupai Canyon, Arizona | [228] |
| Mooney’s Fall, Havasupai Canyon, Arizona | [232] |
| A trout stream in the White Mountains, Arizona | [240] |
| The village of Walpi | [250] |
| Oldest house in Walpi | [250] |
| Young eaglet captured for use in the Hopi snake-dance ceremonies | [254] |
| Second mesa, Hopi Reservation | [256] |
| A Hotavilla Sybil | [256] |
| Navajo Mountain from the mouth of Segi Canyon | [278] |
| Rainbow Bridge Trail near Navajo Mountain | [282] |
| Crossing Bald Rock, on Rainbow Bridge Trail | [284] |
| Rainbow Bridge, Utah | [286] |
| Monument country, Rainbow Trail | [294] |
| Rainbow Bridge Trail | [294] |
| Entrance to the Canyon de Chelley | [298] |
| Quicksand; Canyon de Chelley | [300] |
| Near the entrance of Canyon de Chelley, Arizona | [302] |
| Cliff-dwellings, Canyon de Chelley, Arizona | [304] |
| Casa Blanca, Canyon de Chelley, Arizona | [306] |
| Navajo sheep-dipping at Shiprock | [312] |
| Cliff-dwellings, Mesa Verde Park, Colorado | [316] |
| Shoshones at sun dance, Fort Hall, Idaho | [322] |
| A Shoshone tepee, Fort Hall, Idaho | [324] |
| Camping near Yellowstone Park | [328] |
| Grand Canyon, Yellowstone Park | [330] |
| Glacier Park, Montana | [332] |
| Blackfeet Indians at Glacier Park, Montana | [336] |
| Two Medicine Lake, Glacier Park, Montana | [344] |
| Wrangling horses, Glacier Park, Montana | [344] |
| A Mormon irrigated village | [354] |
| The “Million Dollar” Mormon Temple at Cardston, Alberta, Canada | [354] |
WESTWARD HOBOES