CONTENTS

CHAPTER I
PAGE
THE UGANDA RAILWAY[1]
CHAPTER II
AROUND MOUNT KENYA[19]
CHAPTER III
THE HIGHLANDS OF EAST AFRICA[45]
CHAPTER IV
THE GREAT LAKE[66]
CHAPTER V
THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA[86]
CHAPTER VI
KAMPALA[104]
CHAPTER VII
'ON SAFARI'[127]
CHAPTER VIII
MURCHISON FALLS[148]
CHAPTER IX
HIPPO CAMP[168]
CHAPTER X
DOWN THE WHITE NILE[188]
CHAPTER XI
THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT RAILWAY[209]

ILLUSTRATIONS

To face page
MR. CHURCHILL AND THE RHINOCEROS AT SIMBA[Frontispiece]
ON THE COW-CATCHER[7]
THE RHINOCEROS AT SIMBA[12]
GUARD OF HONOUR, KING'S AFRICAN RIFLES[20]
BREAKDOWN ON THE WAY TO THIKA CAMP[22]
SHOOTING PARTY AT THIKA CAMP[24]
THE BANDA AT THIKA CAMP[28]
COLONEL WILSON'S LION[28]
"DURBAR" AT KIAMBU[30]
THE RIFT VALLEY FROM THE KIKUYU ESCARPMENT[66]
GOVERNMENT STOCK FARM AT NAIVASHA[68]
THE LAIBON'S WIVES[71]
RAILHEAD AT KISUMU[71]
KAVIRONDO WARRIORS AT KISUMU[80]
NANDI AND KAVIRONDO WARRIORS AT KISUMU[84]
KISUMU[86]
GOVERNMENT HOUSE, ENTEBBE[90]
THE GOVERNOR WITH BAGANDA GROUP[102]
BAGANDA WARRIORS AT KAMPALA[106]
KING DAUDI'S DRUMMERS AT KAMPALA[108]
WATCHING THE WAR-DANCE AT KAMPALA[109]
ON THE WAY TO KAMPALA[110]
ROAD BETWEEN JINJA AND LAKE CHIOGA[110]
WAR DANCE AT KAMPALA—"THE BRAVEST MANIN THE ARMY"[112]
WAR DANCE AT KAMPALA[112]
THE WHITE FATHERS' MISSION AT KAMPALA[114]
CHILDREN AT THE ENGLISH CATHOLIC MISSION,KAMPALA[114]
INTERIOR OF NAMIREMBE CATHEDRAL[116]
THE RIPON FALLS (SOURCE OF THE NILE)[120]
BETWEEN NIMULE AND GONDOKORO[128]
FOREST SCENE NEAR RIPON FALLS[133]
PALM TREE NEAR THE ASUA[134]
BANDA WITH ESCORT OF KING'S AFRICAN RIFLES[134]
AN ENCAMPMENT[136]
LANDING AT MRULI[146]
MURCHISON FALLS[159]
FAJAO, WITH NATIVES ASSEMBLED TO WELCOME US[160]
FLOTILLA AT FAJAO[162]
THE TOP OF THE MURCHISON FALLS[164]
UGANDA SCENERY[164]
THE LANDING-PLACE AT FAJAO[169]
EARLY MORNING ON THE NILE AT FAJAO[170]
FAJAO[170]
APPROACH TO LAKE ALBERT, WITH THE CONGOHILLS IN THE DISTANCE[174]
WADELAI[174]
THE "KENIA," "JAMES MARTIN," AND "GOOD HOPE"NEARING NIMULE[178]
HIPPO CAMP[178]
MR. CHURCHILL ON THE OBSERVATION LADDER ATHIPPO CAMP[182]
BANK OF THE VICTORIA NILE[182]
MR. CHURCHILL AND BURCHELL'S WHITE RHINOCEROS[186]
COLONEL WILSON'S ELEPHANT[187]
THE "KENIA," "JAMES MARTIN," AND "GOOD HOPE"ON THE WHITE NILE[187]
FORDING THE ASUA[192]
THE BELGIAN OFFICIALS AT LADO[196]
GONDOKORO[196]
REVIEW AT KHARTOUM[198]
SOUDAN GOVERNMENT STEAMER "DAL"[198]
A SHELUK AT KODOK (FASHODA)[202]
THE PALACE, KHARTOUM[204]
GEORGE SCRIVINGS[207]
PHILAE[208]

MAPS

EASTERN AFRICA[2]
BRITISH EAST AFRICA[16]
UGANDA[92]

CHAPTER I
THE UGANDA RAILWAY

The aspect of Mombasa as she rises from the sea and clothes herself with form and colour at the swift approach of the ship is alluring and even delicious. But to appreciate all these charms the traveller should come from the North. He should see the hot stones of Malta, baking and glistening on a steel-blue Mediterranean. He should visit the Island of Cyprus before the autumn rains have revived the soil, when the Messaoria Plain is one broad wilderness of dust, when every tree—be it only a thorn-bush—is an heirloom, and every drop of water is a jewel. He should walk for two hours at midday in the streets of Port Said. He should thread the long red furrow of the Suez Canal, and swelter through the trough of the Red Sea. He should pass a day among the cinders of Aden, and a week among the scorched rocks and stones of Northern Somaliland; and then, after five days of open sea, his eye and mind will be prepared to salute with feelings of grateful delight these shores of vivid and exuberant green. On every side is vegetation, moist, tumultuous, and varied. Great trees, clad in dense foliage, shrouded in creepers, springing from beds of verdure, thrust themselves through the undergrowth; palms laced together by flowering trailers; every kind of tropical plant that lives by rain and sunshine; high waving grass, brilliant patches of purple bougainvillea, and in the midst, dotted about, scarcely keeping their heads above the fertile flood of Nature, the red-roofed houses of the town and port of Mombasa.