ONE-CRUST PIES

50. Many varieties of pies are made with only one crust, and these usually prove more attractive than those having two crusts. As a rule, the filling is a custard or a corn-starch mixture, but often fruits of various kinds, as well as pumpkin and squash, are used in the making of pies of this kind. Frequently, meringue is used as a covering for one-crust pies; or, if an especially delicious dessert is desired, a thick layer of stiffly beaten and sweetened whipped cream is often added to the pie just before serving. Again, a partly open pie is sometimes made, this being done by putting strips or pieces of paste over the filling before the pie is baked. Individual pies of this kind are attractive for special occasions and may be made to advantage if small pie pans are in supply.

The crust for one-crust pies is often placed over the back of the pan and baked. It is then removed, filled with the desired filling, and returned to the oven to complete the baking. Whether the lower crust should not be baked or should be partly or entirely baked before the filling is put into it depends on the character of the filling and the degree of temperature required to cook it.

51. MERINGUE FOR ONE-CRUST PIES.--Since meringue is often used as a garnish for one-crust pies, the housewife should understand its nature and the proper procedure in its making. When it is correctly made and properly baked, it is very attractive and improves the appearance of the dessert, but failure in these respects is likely to result in a tough, shrunken meringue, which had better be omitted, as it detracts from the appearance of the pie and is not agreeable to the taste.

If an attractive, appetizing meringue is to be the result, the eggs that are used must be in good condition and very cold; also, they must be properly beaten so that there will be no loss of air in manipulating the whites when they are placed on top of the pie mixture. The baking is important, too, both the length of time the meringue remains in the oven and the temperature to which it is subjected having a direct bearing on the finished meringue.

52. To make meringue, first separate the whites from the yolks and chill them thoroughly. Beat them with a fork or an egg whip until they are almost stiff, that is, until they will hold their shape fairly well but will drop from the fork or whip when it is raised. At this point, begin to add the sugar, which, if possible, should be either confectioner's or pulverized, although granulated sugar may be used if the others cannot be obtained. Add the sugar slowly and continue the beating until all of it has been incorporated. The meringue is then ready to place on the filling. It should be remembered that the filling must be partly or entirely cooked before the meringue is applied, so that when the pie is returned to the oven nothing but the meringue will require cooking.

53. The manner in which meringue is placed on pie has much to do with the appearance of the pie. If it is spread on the filling in an even layer, the pie will invariably look stiff and unattractive. By far the better way is to drop it by spoonfuls roughly over the top of the filling, or first to spread a thin layer over the top in order to cover the entire surface and then to drop the remainder of the meringue over this by spoonfuls. Or, it may be forced through a pastry tube into rosettes or frills of any preferred design. The advantage of applying it unevenly rather than in a thin layer is that the rough surface will brown where the spots are high and the depressions will be a lighter brown or white. When the pie has been covered with meringue, set it in a moderate oven and let it bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until it is properly browned, when it will appear as in Fig. 13. By no means allow the meringue to remain in the oven longer than this, for as soon as the baking is completed, it will immediately begin to shrink and toughen.

MERINGUE FOR PIES