Chili Described.
The Spring begins about the Middle of our August, and lasts till the Middle of November; then the Summer holds to the Middle of February, the Autumn continues to the Middle of May, and the Winter from thence to the Middle of August. During this Season the Trees are depriv’d of their Leaves, and the Ground is cover’d with white Frosts, which are dissolved about 2 hours after the Sun rises. The Snow falls seldom in the Vallies, but in great Quantity in the Mountains, from whence it is melted in the Summer, and fructifies the Vallies and Plains with Rivulets. In the Spring the Fields are adorn’d with beautiful Flowers of all Colours and sorts, and of an admirable Scent, from whence they distil a fine Liquid called Angels Water, which makes a noble Perfume. The choicest Flowers and Plants that we cultivate grow wild there; they have Groves of Mustard Trees higher than a Man on Horseback, and the Birds build their Nests in them. They have many Physical Plants and Herbs, with which their Indian Physicians perform wonderful Cures, when the Patients are despair’d of by our European Doctors, but they are very shy of communicating those Secrets. Fruits and Seeds brought hither from Europe thrive very well, but those of Mexico and Peru don’t. They have all our sorts of Fruit in such abundance, that every one may take what they please; so that none is sold, except a sort of extraordinary large Strawberries, which they cultivate. They have Oats, Wheat and Maiz in such plenty, that they are seldom troubled with Want of Grain. Their Pastures are so rich, and their Cattle of all sorts so numerous, that they don’t value the Flesh, but salt the Tongues and Loins, and send ’em to Peru with the Hides and Tallow, which is a great Branch of their Trade. They have Store of noble and generous Wines, both white and red; their Vines are larger, and their Clusters of Grapes much bigger than any in Europe. They have also plenty of Olives, Groves of Cocoa Trees of several Leagues long. Almond-trees, and such Store of Silk grass, which they use instead of Hemp, that they furnish all the Coasts of the South Sea with Cordage for their Ships; they have also great Quantities of Annise and Cummin-seed, Salt, Flax, Wool, Leather, Timber, Pitch, Amber, &c. So that according to Ovalle, Merchants may trade from hence to other Parts in the South Sea, and especially to Lima, from 100 to 300 per Cent. Profit, of which I have also been informed by our Prisoners. Though they have abundance of Mulberry-trees, they breed no Silk-worms; so that the Ladies, who are extravagant in their Apparel, impoverish the Country by purchasing the richest Silks, tho’ they might easily have enough of their own. They have plenty of Bees, yet have their Wax from Europe, for want of Industry to improve their own, and they have Pepper and other Spice from the East Indies, tho’ they have a kind of Spice of their own, which might very well supply them. He adds, that the Herbage, Fishing, Hunting, Wood for Fuel and Timber, and Salt Mines, are here in common, so that every one may take what they please. They make little use of their Mines of Lead and Quicksilver; for Peru has enough of the latter to purify their Silver. Ovalle says the Gold Mines are so many, that from the Confines of Peru to the Straits of Magellan there is no part of the Country without ’em; but they are not so much follow’d as in Peru, and they don’t so much apply themselves to the Silver Mines, because those of Gold are wrought with less charge; their Silver is dug from hard Rocks, ground to Powder in their Mills, and then refin’d with Quicksilver, which is laborious as well as expensive; whereas they have no other trouble with the Gold than to wash the Earth from it; yet sometimes they follow the Veins of Gold through Rocks, when they have hopes that they will grow larger, as they frequently do, and one of these Veins is often enough to enrich the Discoverers. Gold is not dug here in such Plenty, since the War betwixt the Spaniards and Araucanos; but the Natives wait for the Winter Rains, which wash it down from the Mountains, into Rivers, Ponds, &c. when the Women go into the Water, feel out the Grains with their Toes, and make up as much as supplys their present Necessities, as our Author says, but to me this appears a very odd Way to get Gold. He tells us that he sent one of those Grains to Seville, where being touch’d, it was found to be 23 Carats fine, without any manner of Purification. Most of the Bells and great Guns us’d in Peru, are made of the Copper of this Country.
Chili Described.
He comes next to give an Account of the Chain of Mountains, named Cordillera, from his own Observation, and what he has read in Authors: He says they run from N. to S. from the Province of Quito to the Straits of Magellan, which is above a Thousand Leagues, and accounts them the highest Mountains in the World; they are generally 40 Leagues broad, and intermix’d with Abundance of habitable Valleys: These Mountains form 2 Ridges, the lowermost is cover’d with Woods and Groves, but the higher barren, because of the excessive Cold and Snow on them. The most remarkable Animals in these Mountains are, 1. that Species of Hogs which have their Navels on their Backs, call’d Pecarys, these go in great Herds, with each their Leader, and till he be kill’d, ’tis not safe for Hunters to attack them, but when he falls, they immediately disperse. 2. Wild Goats, whose Hair is as soft as Silk, and much us’d for fine Hats. 4. Their Sheep call’d Guanacos, shap’d like Camels, but of a far less Size, with Wool so fine that it is preferr’d to Silk for Softness and Colour. He adds, that the ancient Yncas, or Princes, cut two Roads through those Mountains, and if we may believe Herrera,[148] one of them was pav’d for 900 Leagues from Cusco to Chili, ’twas 25 Foot broad, and at every 4 Leagues, there was a noble Structure, and at each half League Couriers to relieve one another, in carrying Messages from the State. He says, there are still a sort of Inns on this Road, where Travellers find all Necessaries; but the Paths into the Mountains are so narrow, that a single Mule can scarce pass them. The Ascent begins at the very Shore of the Sea, but that which is properly call’d the Mountains, requires three or four Days Journey to the Top of them, where the Air is so very piercing and cold, that he found difficulty to breath, when he pass’d them, so that he and his fellow Travellers were obliged to breath quicker and stronger than ordinary and to apply their Handkerchiefs to their Mouths, to break the extreme Coldness of the Air. Herrera says, That those who pass them from Peru are troubled with Reachings and Vomitings. Ovalle adds, That there are Meteors upon those Mountains sometimes so high in the Air, that they resemble Stars, and at other times so low, that they frighten the Mules and buz about their Ears and Feet. He says, on the Top of those Mountains they can’t see the Country below for Clouds, tho’ the Sky over their Heads is clear and bright, and the Sun shines with admirable Beauty. When he pass’d the highest Part of that which is properly call’d the Cordillera, he found no Snow, tho’ in the beginning of Winter, whereas, in the lower Parts, ’twas so deep, that the Mules could scarce travel. He supposes the Reason why there was no Snow on the Top is, that it reaches above the middle Region of the Air. There are 16 Vulcanos in this Chain of Mountains, which sometimes break out with dreadful Effects, cleave the Rocks, and issue great Quantities of Fire, with a Noise resembling Thunder. I refer to our Author for the particular Names and Places of those Vulcanos. He doubts not but there are many rich Mines among those Mountains, tho’ the Natives industriously conceal them, and make it Death to discover them, which has defeated several Attempts of that Nature by the Spaniards. The Natives have no occasion for those Mines themselves, because they have Plenty of Provisions, which is all they desire, and they are afraid that such Discoveries will occasion the Spaniards to dispossess them, or to make them work in the Mines as Slaves. He concludes this Head with an Account that very rich Mines were discover’d at the Foot of those Mountains on the side of Cuio.
Those Mountains of the Cordillera are passable only in Summer, or in the Beginning of the Winter. There are frightful Precipices, and deep Rivers, at the sides of the narrow Passes, which frequently occasions the Loss of Mules and Travellers. The Streams run with such Violence, and so far below the Roads, that to look at them turns ones Head. The Ascents and Descents are so steep, that they are difficult to pass on Foot, but the Irksomeness of the Way is alleviated by the beautiful Cascades which the Water naturally forms as it falls from the Rocks and Mountains; and in some of the Valleys the Water springs up to a great Height, like Fountains made by Art, amongst odoriferous Plants and Flowers, which make an Agreeable Prospect. All these Streams and Springs are so very cool, that a Man can’t drink above 2 or 3 Sips at once, nor hold his Hand in them above a Minute. In some Places there are hot Springs, good against many Distempers, and leave a green Tincture in the Channels thro’ which they run. One of those Rivers, call’d Mendoca, has a natural Bridge of Rock over it, from the Vault of which there hangs several Pieces of Stone, resembling Salt, which congeal like Icecles, as the Water drops from the Rock, and are form’d into several Shapes and Colours. This Bridge is broad enough for 3 or 4 Carts to pass a-breast. There’s another Bridge near this, call’d the Yncas, laid over by Art, betwixt 2 Rocks, as some say, but our Author thinks it is the Work of Nature: It is so very high from the River, that he could not hear the Stream, which runs with great Rapidity, and though it be a large River, it appear’d like a Brook when he look’d down from the Bridge, which he could not do without being struck with Horror.
Chili Described.
Chili Described.
He comes next to describe the particular Rivers which run from these Mountains; but I shall only mention the chief of them; and tho’ most of them don’t run above 30 Leagues, yet some of them, towards their Mouths, are navigable by Ships of the greatest Burthen. The first is that which rises in the Confines of Peru, about S. Lat. 25. ’tis call’d the River of Salt, because ’tis so salt that it can’t be drank, and petrifies what’s thrown into it. 2. Copiapo, which rises in Lat. 26. runs 20 Leagues from E. to W. and forms a Bay and a Harbour, at its Entrance into the Sea. 3. Guasco rises in Lat. 28. and forms likewise a Bay and Harbour. 4. The River of Coquimbo, which rises in Lat. 30, forms a noble Bay and a Port, with beautiful Myrtles, and other Trees on the Bank, that make a noble and a pleasant Grove. 5. Aconcagua, a large deep River that rises about Lat. 33. runs thro’ several fruitful Valleys. 6. Maypo rises about Lat. 33 and a half. It is so rapid, that it admits no Bridge but one made of Cables; it enters the Sea with so much Force, that its Waters form a Circle, and are distinguished a great Way. It is brackish, noted for excellent Trouts, and the Sheep which feed on its Banks, afford Mutton of a curious Relish. There are several other Rivers which fall into it; the first is, that of St. Jago, alias Mapocho; ’tis divided into several Streams, to water the District of St. Jago, which sometimes it over-flows: Not far from the City it sinks under Ground, and rises again in a Grove, about 2 or 3 Leagues distant. 2. The River Poangue, its Water is extraordinary clear and sweet, and flowing thro’ Veins of Metal, very much helps Digestion. It runs for several Leagues under Ground, fructifies the Valley which lies over it, and produces excellent Corn and Melons. The Banks of this River are adorn’d with beautiful Trees. 3. The Rivers Decollina and Lampa, which unite together within 10 or 12 Leagues off their Rise, and form the noted Lake of Cudagues. It is so deep, that great Vessels may sail in it, is about 2 Leagues long, and its Banks cover’d with Trees that are verdant all the Year. It abounds with excellent Trouts and Smelts, which are a great Conveniency to the City of St. Jago. 7. Rapel is nothing inferior to Maypo, enters the Sea about Lat. 34. and a half, and receives several other rapid Streams. The adjacent Country has excellent Pastures for fattening of Cattle. 8. Delora rises in Lat. 34 three quarters, and is exactly like the former. 9. Maul, a great River, which rises in Lat. 35. and bounds the Jurisdiction of St. Jago. The Natives call all the Country betwixt those Rivers, Promocaes, i.e. a Place of Dancing and Delight, which our Author says is very just, for he never saw a more pleasant Country, nor one better furnish’d with Provisions of all sorts. The Spaniards have many noble Farms in these Parts. Near the Mouth of this River, there’s a Dock for building of Ships, and a Ferry belonging to the King for the Conveniency of Passengers. 10. Itata; ’tis 3 times as large and deep as the Maul, and enters the Sea about Lat. 36. In most Places they pass it on Rafts, and in some it is fordable. 11. Andalien, a River which runs slow, and enters the spacious and pleasant Bay of Conception, at Lat. 36 three quarters. There’s another small River, which runs through the middle of the City of Conception, a little above which it falls from a high Rock, and gives the Inhabitants an Opportunity to form all sorts of Water-works from it, among pleasant Groves of Lawrels, Myrtles, and other odoriferous Plants. 12. Biobio, a famous River, which enters the Sea, in Lat. 37. ’tis the largest in Chili, and is from 2 to 3 Mile broad at its Mouth. Our Author says its Waters run thro’ Veins of Gold, and Fields of Sarsaparilla, which make them very wholesom, and good against several Distempers. This River is the Boundary betwixt the Indians who are Friends to the Spaniards, and those who are their Enemies, and make frequent Incursions upon them. This obliges the Spaniards to keep many Garrisons in those Parts, but the Natives trust to their Mountains. This River swells so much in the Winter, that it becomes unpassable, and occasions a Cessation of Arms on both sides. These People, says Ovalle, have given the Spaniards more trouble than all the other Natives of America; so that they are forced to maintain 12 Forts, well provided with Men and Cannon, besides the City of Conception and Chillam, to over-aw the Natives. 13. Imperial, a pleasant River, which falls into the Sea, about Lat. 39. after having receiv’d many other Rivers, and among ’em two which run into the famous Lake of Buren, where the Indians have an impregnable Fortress. 24. Tolten, about 30 Miles from the River Imperial, is deep enough for great Ships, where it enters the Sea. 15. About 8 Leagues farther, the River Quenale enters the Sea, and is capable of small Barks. 16. Valdivia, so called from Pedro de Valdivia, one of the Conquerors and Governors of Chili, who built a Port and City, near the Mouth of it, where great Ships may come up about 3 Leagues from the Sea. This River opens to the North, and over-against the City lies the pleasant Island of Constantine, with two others; the River is navigable on both sides of the Island, but deepest on the South side. 17. Chilo, which rises from a Lake at the Foot of the Cordillera, where there are Baths good against the Leprosy and other Distempers. Our Author says so little of the Rivers on the East side of the Cordillera, that we pass them over.
Ovalle gives an Account of many remarkable Fountains, both hot and cold, good against most Distempers; but I shall not insist on them. He says, they have many Sea Lakes or Bays, which bring great Profit to the Owners, because their Fisheries are more certain than those of the Sea; and furnish most part of the Lenten Fair to the Inhabitants, and in the hot Season abundance of Salt.
He adds, that in the Valley of Lampa, near St. Jago, there’s an Herb, about a Foot high, resembling Sweet Basil. In Summer it is cover’d with Grains of Salt, like Pearl, which is more savoury, and has a finer Flavour than any other Salt. Our Author comes next to treat of the Fertility of the Coast, which, he says, among other Fish produces Shell-Fish in greater Quantities, larger than any where else, and 1. Oisters, valuable both for their Meat and Pearls. 2. Choros, a fine Sort of Shell-fish, which also breed Pearl. 3. Manegues, which have 2 round Shells, the inside of which resembles Mother of Pearl. In short, he says, the Sea throws up Shell-fish, in such Quantities, upon some Parts of the Coast, that Ships may be loaded with them, and their Shells are of such Variety of Colours and Shapes, that our European Virtusos might from hence have a curious Collection, whereas the Indians only burn them for Chalk. There are other Sorts of Fish on these Coasts, some of which they call Sea-Stars, others Suns and Moons, because they resemble those Planets, as they are usually painted, which are common elsewhere, but not so large as here. These Fish reduc’d into Powder, and drank in Wine, are an infallible Remedy against Drunkenness, and frequently us’d for that end, because it creates an Abhorrence of Wine in those who drink it, says our Author. He adds, that great Quantities of Amber are found on this Coast, particularly, the grey sort, which is the best. They have all other sorts of Fish, common to us in Europe, besides others, peculiar to themselves.