Febr. 3. Yesterday in the Afternoon we got as many of our Men ashore as could be spar’d from clearing and fitting our Ship, to wood and water. Our Sail-makers are all mending our Sails, and I lent the Dutchess one to assist them. This Morning we got our Smiths Forge put up ashore, set our Coopers to work in another place, and made a little Tent for my self to have the Benefit of the Shore. The Dutchess has also a Tent for their sick Men; so that we have a little Town of our own here, and every body is employ’d. A few Men supply us all with Fish of several sorts, all very good; as Silver-fish, Rock-fish, Pollock, Cavallos, Oldwives, and Craw-fish in such abundance, that in a few hours we could take as many as would serve some hundreds of Men. There were Sea-Fowls in the Bay as large as Geese, but eat fish. The Governour never fail’d of getting us two or three Goats a day for our sick Men, by which with the help of the Greens and the Goodness of the Air they recover’d very fast of the Scurvy, which was their general Distemper. ’Twas very pleasant ashore among the green Piemento Trees, which cast a refreshing Smell. Our House was made by putting up a Sail round four of ’em, and covering it a-top with another Sail; so that Capt. Dover and I both thought it a very agreeable Seat, the Weather being neither too hot nor too cold.
We spent our time till the 10th in refitting our Ships, taking Wood on board, and laying up Water, that which we brought from England and St. Vincent being spoil’d by the badness of the Casks. We likewise boil’d up about 80 Gallons of Sea-Lions Oil, as we might have done several Tuns, had we been provided with Vessels, &c. We refin’d and strain’d it for the use of our Lamps and to save our Candles, tho Sailors sometimes use it to fry their Meat, when straiten’d for want of Butter, &c. and say ’tis agreeable enough. The Men who work’d ashore on our Rigging eat young Seals, which they prefer’d to our Ships Victuals, and said was as good as English Lamb; tho for my own part I should have been glad of such an Exchange.
We made what haste we could to get all Necessaries on board, being willing to lose no time; for we were inform’d at the Canaries that five stout French Ships were coming together to these Seas.
Febr. 11. Yesterday in the Evening having little or nothing to do with the Pinnance, we sent her to the South End of the Island to get Goats. The Governour told us, that during his stay he could not get down to that end from the Mountains where he liv’d, they were so steep and rocky; but that there were abundance of Goats there, and that part of the Island was plainer. Capt. Dampier, Mr. Glendal, and the Governour, with ten Men, set out in company with the Dutchess’s Boat and Crew, and surrounded a great parcel of Goats, which are of a larger sort, and not so wild as those on the higher part of the Island where the Governour liv’d; but not looking well to ’em, they escap’d over the Cliff: so that instead of catching above a hundred, as they might easily have done with a little precaution, they return’d this Morning with only 16 large ones, tho they saw above a thousand. If any Ships come again to this Island, the best way is to keep some Men and Dogs at that part of the Island, and sending a Boat to them once in 24 hours they may victual a good Body of Men; and no doubt but amongst those Goats they may find some hundreds with Mr. Selkirk’s Ear-mark.[125]
Febr. 12. This Morning we bent the remaining Sails, got the last Wood and Water aboard, brought off our Men, and got every thing ready to depart. The Island of Juan Fernandez is nearest of a triangular form, about 12 Leagues round; the South-west side is much the longest, and has a small Island about a mile long lying near it, with a few visible Rocks close under the shore of the great Island. On this side begins a Ridge of high Mountains that run cross from the S W to the N W of the Island; and the Land that lies out in a narrow Point to the Westward, appears to be the only level Ground here. On the N E. side ’tis very high Land, and under it are the two Bays where Ships always put in to recruit. The best Bay is next the middle on this side the Island, which is to be known at a distance by the highest Table Mountain right over this Bay. You may anchor as near as you will to the shore, and the nearer the better. The best Road is on the Larboard side of the Bay, and nearest the Eastermost Shore: provided you get well in, you cannot mistake the Road. The other Bay is plain to be seen under the North end, but not so good for Wood, Water, or Landing, nor so safe for riding. In this Bay, where we rode, there’s plenty of good Water and Wood: the best Water is in a small Cove about a good Musket-shot to the Eastward of the place I have describ’d. You may ride from a Mile to a Bow-shot off the Shore, being all deep Water and bold, without any danger round the Island, but what is visible and very near in. This Bay where we rode is open to near half the Compass; the Eastermost Land in sight bore E by S. dist. about a mile and a half, and the outermost Northwest Point of the Island lies something without our Bay, and bears N W by W. dist. a good League. We were about a mile off the Shore, and had 45 fathom Water, clean sandy Ground; we design’d to have ran farther in, and new moor’d, but Mr. Selkirk inform’d us that this Month proves the fairest in the Year, and that during Winter and Summer, the Account of Juan Fernandez. whole time he was here, he seldom knew the Wind to blow off from the Sea, but only in small Breezes that never brought in a Sea, nor held two hours: but he warn’d us to be on our guard against the Wind off shore, which blew very strong sometimes. The Bay is all deep Water, and you may carry in Ships close to the Rocks, if occasion require. The Wind blows always over the Land, and at worst along shore, which makes no Sea. It’s for the most part calm at night, only now and then a Flaw blows from the high Land over us. Near the Rocks there are very good Fish of several sorts, particularly large Craw-fish under the Rocks easy to be caught; also Cavallies, Gropers, and other good Fish in so great plenty any where near the Shore, that I never saw the like, but at the best fishing Season in Newfoundland. Piemento is the best Timber, and most plentiful on this side the Island, but very apt to split till a little dry’d: we cut the longest and cleanest to split for Fire-wood. The Cabbage-Trees abound about three miles in the Woods, and the Cabbage very good; most of ’em are on the tops of the nearest and lowest Mountains. In the first Plain we found store of Turnip-Greens, and Water-Cresses in the Brooks, which mightily refresh’d our Men, and cleans’d ’em from the Scurvey: the Turnips, Mr. Selkirk told us, are good in our Summer Months, which is Winter here; but this being Autumn, they are all run to Seed, so that we can’t have the benefit of any thing but the Greens. The Soil is a loose black Earth, the Rocks very rotten, so that without great care it’s dangerous to climb the Hills for Cabbages: besides, there are abundance of Holes dug in several places by a sort of Fowls like Puffins, which fall in at once, and endanger the wrenching or breaking of a Man’s Leg. Mr. Selkirk tells me, in July he has seen Snow and Ice here; but the Spring, which is in September, October, and November, is very pleasant, when there’s abundance of good Herbs, as Parsly, Purslain, Sithes in great plenty, besides an Herb found by the water-side, which prov’d very useful to our Surgeons for Fomentations; ’tis not much unlike Feverfew, of a very grateful Smell like Balm, but of a stronger and more cordial Scent: ’tis in great plenty near the Shore. We gather’d many large Bundles of it, dry’d ’em in the shade, and sent ’em on board, besides great quantities that we carry’d in every Morning to strow the Tents, which tended much to the speedy Recovery of our sick Men, of whom none died but two belonging to the Dutchess, viz. Edward Wilts and Christopher Williams.
Mr. Selkirk tells me, that in November the Seals come ashore to whelp and ingender, when the Shore is so full of them for a stone’s throw, that ’tis impossible to pass thro them; and they are so surly, that they’l not move out of the way, but like an angry Dog run at a Man, tho he have a good Stick to beat them: so that at this and their whelping Seasons ’tis dangerous to come near them, but at other times they’l make way for a Man; and if they did not, ’twould be impossible to get up from the Water-side: they lin’d the Shore very thick for above half a mile of ground all round the Bay. When we came in, they kept a continual noise day and night, some bleeting like Lambs, some howling like Dogs or Wolves, others making hideous noises of various sorts; so that we heard ’em aboard, tho a mile from the Shore. Their Fur is the finest that ever I saw of the kind, and exceeds that of our Otters.
In the Road of Juan Fernandez.
Another strange Creature here is the Sea-Lion: The Governour tells me he has seen of them above 20 foot long and more in compass, which could not weigh less than two Tun weight. I saw several of these vast Creatures, but none of the above-mention’d Size; several of ’em were upward of 16 foot long, and more in bulk, so that they could not weigh less than a Tun weight. The Shape of their Body differs little from the Sea-Dogs or Seals, but have another sort of Skin, a Head much bigger in proportion, and very large Mouths, monstrous big Eyes, and a Face like that of a Lion, with very large Whiskers, the Hair of which is stiff enough to make Tooth-pickers. These Creatures come ashore to engender the latter end of June, and stay till the end of September; during all which time they lie on the Land, and are never observ’d to go to the Water, but lie in the same place above a Musket-shot from the Water-side, and have no manner of Sustenance all that time that he could observe. I took notice of some that lay a week, without once offering to move out of the place whilst I was there, till they were disturb’d by us; but we saw few in comparison of what he informs us he did, and that the Shore was all crouded full of them a Musket-shot into the Land. I admire how these Monsters come to yield such a quantity of Oil. Their Hair is short and coarse, and their Skin thicker than the thickest Ox-Hide I ever saw. We found no Land-Bird on the Island, but a sort of Black-Bird with a red Breast, not unlike our English Black-Birds; and the Humming Bird of various Colours, and no bigger than a large Humble Bee. Here is a small Tide which flows uncertain, and the Spring-Tide flows about seven foot.
I shall not trouble the Reader with the Descriptions of this Island given by others, wherein there are many Falshoods; but the Truth of this I can assert from my own knowledg. Nor shall I insert the Description of the Cabbage and Piemento Trees, being so well known and so frequently done, that there’s no manner of need for it. I have insisted the longer upon this Island, because it might be at first of great use to those who would carry on any Trade to the South-Sea.
Febr. 13. At a Committee held on board the Dutchess the 13th of February, 170-8/9, it was agreed as follows: