(Agaricus [Lepiota] procerus.)13.
Agaricus procerus everywhere enjoys a good reputation, and as it is far from uncommon, the lovers of fungi can generally make sure of this species for a treat. When or at what time it was ever sold at Covent Garden Market, I do not know; for although more than one book says it is there displayed for sale, I never saw, or could hear of it. It grows in pastures, and is known by its long bulbous spotted stem, by the ring that will slip up and down, by the very scaly top, and the gills far removed from the insertion of the stalk. When the stem is removed, a large hollow socket remains,—just the place to insert a large piece of butter in the broiling process, when, with pepper and salt, it forms a dish that if once tried must please the most fastidious. I think the plants gathered in the pastures are best. I have sometimes found most enormous specimens growing in fir plantations, but I do not think them equal for the table to the plants which abound in rich meadows. The flesh is a little inclined to change colour; and there is an allied species, A. rachodes, much more robust, but often smaller, that changes colour to a deep yellowish-brown when broken, and has a smooth stem, that cannot be so highly recommended, if it even be wholesome. I have generally found it growing on dark and shady hedge-banks, and know several persons who have eaten it and speak well of it.
Plum Mushroom. [Fig. 15.]
(Agaricus [Clitopilus] prunulus.)225.
The pure pink gills running considerably down the ringless stem, and the fresh and fragrant smell of meal, at once distinguish this species from all others. It grows in and near woods in the autumn, evidently giving a preference to the open places and borders; the solid stem and the very fleshy top are white, or some shade of very pale grey. Dr. Badham and some other authors refer to our plant under the name of A. orcellus, and some botanists consider the true “orcellus” and the true “prunulus” distinct but closely allied species. There is also a vexatious confusion between this species and [fig. 19], St. George’s Mushroom (A. gambosus). This latter is a spring plant, and is frequently and erroneously called A. prunulus. They have no characters in common, and, in fact, more distinct Agarics do not exist.
Returning to the true Plum Mushroom ([fig. 15]), I have only to say that, however prepared, it is most excellent; the flesh is firm and juicy, and full of flavour; and whether broiled, stewed, or however prepared, it is a most delicious morsel. I have never seen it in very large quantities; it is scattered over the woods north of London, but not in profusion.
Curled Helvella. [Fig. 16.]
(Helvella crispa.)1673.