(Agaricus [Tricholoma] personatus.)65.
Although this plant at times appears in pastures near London, it is not very common. It is very nearly allied to and extremely like the next species ([fig. 19]), from which it is principally distinguished by its growing in the autumn, and having a lilac band round the upper part of the stem. This lilac stain, however, is not invariably present; and a species that is altogether (stem and top too) lilac, or full violet, should be avoided (A. nudus). The Purple Cobweb-Mushroom ([fig. 12]) is easily distinguished by its rust of iron gills. In Agaricus personatus they are white—sometimes dirty white; the solid ringless stem is rather rough; and the top is smooth, and exceedingly firm and fleshy; the plant grows late in the autumn, on downs, and in rich, short pastures.
Opinions vary a little regarding the value of this species for gastronomic purposes; but I think, if young plants are gathered, in dry weather, and carefully broiled or stewed, few fungi will prove more truly delicious. From my own experience, I have the highest opinion of it; but the plant readily absorbs moisture, and during wet weather is heavy and of little worth.
As these pages are passing through the press, my friend, Mr. Thomas Moore, of the Botanic Garden, Chelsea, informs me that this autumn (1874) he saw large quantities of A. personatus exposed for sale in the markets of Nottingham, under the name of “blue-bottoms,” the vendors stating the fungus to be “as good as mushrooms.”
St. George’s Mushroom. [Fig. 19.]
(Agaricus [Tricholoma] gambosus.)62.
The St. George’s Mushroom is fit for any saint in the calendar. It comes up in the spring, near St. George’s Day, when few other species are to be found. It is in every part almost white, or with a slight inclination to ochre; but sometimes the colour is a little fuller. The stem and top are singularly firm, fleshy, and solid, and the latter, in hot weather is inclined to split. It grows in rings, on rich lawns and pastures, and has a strong, fragrant, enticing odour.
It is a little like A. crustuliniformis ([fig. 24, Poisonous Sheet]), which, however, differs in various ways, principally in discharging brown spores instead of white, as in A. gambosus. The poisonous plant has an odour like the flowers of laurel, and grows in woods in the autumn.
Few species are more substantial and delightful for the table. I (with many others) look upon it with unusual favour, as one of the rarest delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. Like the last, it is absorbent of water, and should be gathered in dry weather. I think it is local, and certainly uncommon near London.