Russula heterophylla is highly esteemed by many, and is certainly one of the sweetest and mildest species we have. It is excellent stewed in an oven, with salt, pepper, and butter, between two dishes.
Candle Clavaria. [Fig. 4.]
(Clavaria vermiculata.)843.
This species is frequently very common in pastures and meadows, on lawns and by roadsides, in the wet weather of autumn. It grows in bundles; is brittle; the clubs are pointed and very white. If a few bundles be gathered, cleaned, and stewed or broiled, they will form a novel and tasty adjunct to any dish, and when once tried will be eagerly sought for in future. Coloured Clavarias had better remain where found growing, as their gastronomic qualities are doubtful.
Meadow Mushroom. [Fig. 5.]
(Agaricus [Psalliota] campestris.)316.
A large volume might be written about this species, the only one popularly recognized in this country as edible. It is common in rich meadows everywhere, perhaps all over the world, and varies in a remarkable manner, by imperceptible gradations approaching and blending with the horse mushroom, [fig. 9]: its varieties are distinguished by five or six different names, but the characters run into each other so much, and are frequently so slight and transient, that they are often difficult to appreciate. One form is found growing in woods (A. silvicola). I have often gathered it in the Highgate woods, but from its suspicious aspect would not advise its general use; though I have frequently eaten it with no ill effect. There is another most beautiful variety I have frequently gathered in the meadows on the south side of Lord Mansfield’s woods at Hampstead (A. pratensis), with a very hairy top, the hairs grouped in patches like ermine. When broken, the flesh changes to a pale but vivid rose-colour. If possible, this form exceeds in excellence and piquancy of flavour the common form of our pastures. Several very distinct varieties are cultivated in beds and stoves, which occasionally appear in our markets; but none exceed our delicious indigenous meadow mushroom, as found in the autumn in rich pastures.
Bonâ fide mushrooms are known by their beautiful pink gills (in which state they are best fit for use), ultimately becoming deep brown, and not reaching the stem, which stem carries a well-marked white woolly ring; by the very fleshy down-covered top, the delicious and enticing fragrance and the firm white flesh, sometimes inclined to pink when cut or broken: the plant is so well known and so highly esteemed in this country that it is hardly necessary to say a word in its favour, or repeat methods of preparing it for the table. Butter, spice, parsley, sweet herbs, salt, pepper, and sometimes the squeeze of a lemon, appear to be in the greatest request; but whether boiled, pickled, stewed, fried, or prepared in any other way, it is equally delicious in all. It seldom appears in Covent Garden Market; the dealers there are content to find a sale, at a high price, for stale horse mushrooms. Much has been written at various times regarding the apocryphal “inspector of the Roman markets,” who consigns mushrooms to the Tiber, but the facts have been much exaggerated. Agaricus campestris is not generally appreciated in Italy, is seldom eaten, and never appears in the markets, for the simple reason that there would be no sale for it. There is an edict in existence ordering certain fungi to be thrown into the Tiber, but it is now, and has long been, altogether effete; and whilst there is an abundance of A. cæsareus (by some said to be the most delicious of all fungi) for the markets of Italy, it is not to be expected that the consumption of this latter plant will be given up for another and less-known species. It is probable that Agaricus cæsareus may one day be found in the southern parts of this country; if so, it will be known by its smooth wartless crimson top, its yellow gills, and stout white stem springing from a large wrapper at the base ([like fig. 7, Poisonous Sheet]).