Animals. North Mexico produces deer, elk, buffalo, cabrie, the gresley [grizzly and] black bear, and wild horses.
Population. Its population is not far short of 30,000 souls, one-twentieth of which may be Spaniards from Europe, or Chapetones [Gachupines[IV'-22]], four-twentieths Creoles, five-twentieths Metifs, and the other half civilized Indians.
The capital is Santa Fe, situated on a small stream which empties into the east side of the Rio del Norte, at the foot of the mountains which divide the waters of that river from the Arkansaw and the Red river of the Mississippi, in 36° N. lat. and 100° W. long. It is an oblong square, extending about one mile from east to west on the banks of the creek. In the centre is the public square, one side of which forms the flank of the soldiers' square, which is closed and in some degree defended by the round towers in the angles which flank the four curtains; another side of the square is formed by the palace of the governor, his guard-houses, etc.; the third side is occupied by the priests and their suite, and the fourth by the Chapetones who reside in the city. The houses are generally only one story high, with flat roofs, and have a very mean appearance on the outside; but some of them are richly furnished, especially with plate.
The second cities in the province are Albuquerque and Passo [El Paso] del Norte. The latter is the most southern city of the province, as Tons [Taos] is the most northern. Between the village of Sibilleta and the Passo there is a wilderness of near 200 miles [including the Jornada del Muerto].
Trade and Commerce. New Mexico carries on a trade direct with Mexico through Biscay [Nueva Viscaya], also with Senora [Sonora] and Sinaloa; it sends out about 30,000 sheep annually, tobacco, dressed deer and cabrie skins, some furs, buffalo robes, salt, and wrought copper vessels of a superior quality. It receives in return, from Biscay and Mexico, dry goods, confectionery, arms, iron, steel, ammunition, and some choice European wines and liquors; from Senora and Sinaloa, gold, silver, and cheese. The following articles sell in this province, as stated, which will show the cheapness of provisions and the extreme dearness of imported goods: Flour sells, per hundred, at $2; salt, per mule-load, $5; sheep, each, $1; beeves, each, $5; wine del Passo, per barrel, $15; horses, each, $11; mules, each, $30; superfine cloths, per yard, $25; fine cloths, per yard, $20; linen, per yard, $4, and all other dry goods in proportion.
The journey with loaded mules from Santa Fe to Mexico, and returning to Santa Fe, takes five months. They manufacture rough leather, cigars, a vast variety and quantity of potters' ware, cotton, some coarse woolen cloths, and blankets of a superior quality. All those manufactures are carried on by the civilized Indians, as the Spaniards think it more honorable to be agriculturists than mechanics. The Indians likewise far exceed their conquerors in their genius for, and execution of, all mechanical operations.
About two miles above the town of Passo del Norte is a bridge over the river, where the road passes to the west side, at which place is a large canal [acequia]. This takes out an ample supply of water for the purpose of cultivation, which is here carried on in as great perfection as at any place that I visited in the provinces. There is a wall bordering the canal the whole way on both sides, to protect it from the animals; and when it arrives at the village, it is distributed in such a manner that each person has his fields watered in rotation. At this place were as finely cultivated fields of wheat and other small grain as I ever saw; and numerous vineyards, from which were produced the finest wine ever drank in the country, which was celebrated through all the provinces, and was the only wine used on the table of the commanding general.
Agriculture. They cultivate corn, wheat, rye, barley, rice, tobacco, vines, and all the common culinary plants cultivated in the same latitude in the United States. New Mexico has the exclusive right of cultivating tobacco. They are, however, a century behind us in the art of cultivation; for, notwithstanding their numerous herds of cattle and horses, I have seen them frequently breaking up whole fields with a hoe. Their oxen draw by the horns, after the French mode. Their carts are extremely awkward and clumsily made. During the whole of the time we were in New Spain I never saw a horse in a vehicle of any description, mules being made use of in carriages, as well as for the purposes of labor.
Antiquities. On the river St. Francis,[IV'-23] a large branch of the river Gila, which heads near the copper mines in New Mexico and discharges into the Red river of California, are the remains of old walls and houses which are ascertained to have been the work of the Mexicans on their route emigrating from the northwest to the plains of Mexico, where they finally established themselves. Those walls are of a black cement, the durability of which increases with its age, so that it has hitherto bid defiance to the war of time. Its composition is now entirely lost. There is also found at this place many broken pieces of earthenware, which still possess the glazing as perfectly as when first put on.
Aborigines.[IV'-24] The Kyaways [Kiowas] wander on the sources of La Platte and are supposed to be 1,000 men strong. They possess immense herds of horses, and are at war with both Pawnees and Tetaus [Ietans, Comanches], as well as the Sioux. They are armed with bows, arrows, and lances, and hunt the buffalo. This nation, with the Tetaus and Utahs, all speak the same language. The Utahs wander at the sources of the Rio del Norte, are supposed to be 2,000 warriors strong, are armed in the same manner, and pursue the same game, as the Kyaways. They are, however, a little more civilized, from having more connection with the Spaniards, with whom they are frequently at war, but were then at peace, and waging war with the Tetaus.[IV'-25]