[I'-9] Lieutenant J. W. Abert supposes that these were those long known as the parroquia or parish church, and the capilla de los soldados or military chapel: Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Cong., 1st Sess., pub. 1848, p. 454, where an account of them and services held in them, as these were in 1846, may be read. A plate shows the parish church, with "Fort Marez" (Marcy) in the distance.
[I'-10] The governor's certificate and Pike's remonstrance, here in mention, were given in the App. to Pt. 3, of which they formed Docs. [Nos. 9] and [8], and will be found in due course, beyond.
[I'-11] Pike has the thing all right, but under a curious name I never saw elsewhere, and might not have recognized, had I not happened to hear cojinillo myself in New Mexico. This word is probably provincial or dialectal, as it is not found in ordinary Sp. dictionaries; in form it is a diminutive of cojin, name of a certain saddle-pad or cushion, precisely equivalent to E. "pillion." It turns up now and then in books about Mexico, as for example: "The corazas [covers] of travelling saddles are also provided with several pockets called coginillos—a most excellent contrivance for carrying a lunch or a bottle, or anything to which convenient access may be desired," Gregg, Comm. Pra., I. 1844, p. 214.
[I'-12] Marked "Vitior 200" on Pike's map. I do not recognize this name, but it is easy to pick out Pike's road to San Domingo, which he reaches to-morrow, and locate his Vitior at or within a mile of a place on the Rio Santa Fé now called La Bajada, which is 7¾ m. from San Domingo. In starting from Santa Fé for the Rio Grande at this point, you do not follow down the creek (Rio de Santa Fé or Rio Chacito), but bear away from it on higher ground between it and Arroyo Hondo, pass a little place called Agua Fria, and then have a choice of two roads. One of these bears off more to the left, and strikes the creek at the hamlet of Cieneguilla, whence you follow the creek in the cañon to La Bajada; but the straighter road keeps on S. W., crosses the creek higher up, cuts across the mesa south of Tetilla Peak, and suddenly pitches down into the creek at the mouth of the cañon, where La Bajada is situated. This is what I suppose Pike means by saying he ascended a hill and then descended a precipice. If he went that way, he rode 15 m. from Santa Fé to "Vitior" or La Bajada. (See [Vitior] in Index.)
[I'-13] Present Santo Domingo, or San Domingo, is at the mouth of Galisteo cr., with the pueblo immediately below it, on the E. bank of the Rio Grande, 4 or 5 m. below Peña Blanca. Pike charts it by name, and lays down this creek. The plate opp. p. 462 of Lieutenant Abert's report shows the pueblo as it was in 1846. Part of the road from Santa Fé to San Domingo was bad, on account of the rocks in the cañon of the little stream, and the sandy dunes near the pueblo. On getting out of the cañon onto the plain, Pike had on his left the Sandia range, while ahead, but somewhat to the right, rose the Jemez mts. The Galisteo was probably quite dry. There were no trees to be seen till the cottonwood fringe of the Rio Grande came into view. The pueblo did not vary much for a century. It had about 800 pop. when I passed through in 1864; a very recent census yielded 690. As Pike says, these Indians are "of the nation of Keres," i. e., of the Keresan family. Had he taken the ford across the Rio Grande, which was used here at times when the water was not more than three or four feet deep, though 300 yards wide, and gone westward about 26 m. to the Rio Jemez, he would have come upon the Tañoan town of Jemez, a dead-alive little place, which has held its population of 400 or 500 for many generations, and long sustained its old adobe church. Twelve miles above Jemez, at a place on the river called Ojos Calientes from its hot springs, were and may still be seen the ruins of another church, a view of which, as they appeared in 1849, is given on pl. 15 of Simpson's report already cited. Jemez is the place Pike means by the "Gomez 300" which he charts; only it is located too near the Rio Grande on his map. (See [Santo Domingo] in Index.)
[I'-14] Marked "Sn. Philip de queres 1000" on the map, on the W. side of the Rio Grande. This is the pueblo of San Felipe, situated 7 m. S. of San Domingo, opp. the mouth of Tuerto cr., which falls in from the E., a little below the gulch or ravine called Arroyo del Espinazo. The town of Covero, or Cubero, is 5 m. above, on the same (W.) side of the Rio Grande. The large stream which Pike lays down on that side, just below his St. Philip's, is the Rio Jemez, which falls in between Algodones and Bernalillo. The word "queres" of the map is the same as Keres of the above text; i. e., San Felipe is a town of the Keresan nation. The place is on the W. side of the Rio Grande, which here straitens to 100 yards or so, about 6 m. above Algodones. Pike's town was no doubt the present San Felipe—the one at the foot of the mesa, and not that commonly called old San Felipe, about a mile off, upon the edge of the mesa; for this was in ruins half a century if not a century ago, and the pueblos are all slow to change, either for better or worse. It has taken nearly 100 years to reduce San Felipe from the population which Pike estimated at 1000 to the 550 of a very recent census. It has been more Mexicanized than some of the other Indian towns. Lieutenant Abert, speaking of the bridge which Pike mentions, says that when he was there, Oct. 10th, 1846, it had been entirely swept away, and the people had to ford the Rio Grande. The plate opp. p. 461 of his report shows some of them in the act. Another view of San Felipe is given in the same volume, opp. p. 39, in the report of Lieutenant W. H. Emory, who says that "the hardships, trials, and perseverance of the gallant Pike" came forcibly to his mind when he first caught sight of the Rio Grande, Sept. 2d, 1846, at San Domingo, whose population he judged to be about 600.
[I'-15] Marked "S Dies 500" on the map, on the E. side of the Rio Grande, to which Pike recrossed from San Felipe. The Spanish form would be San Diaz, but the pueblo is best known as Sandia or Zandia, a name also applied to the great mountain which rises on the E. As a Spanish word, sandia means "watermelon," and appeared in print as the name of this village in 1626. The aboriginal name of the pueblo is Nafiap, and its mission name was Nuestra Señora de los Dolores de Sandia. This is a Tañoan town, with a present population of about 150. The situation is 12 m. above Albuquerque. Pike speaks of two small hamlets he passed to reach St. Dies. In 1864, when I passed over the road, there was a mean place called Algodones, of 30 or 40 houses and some 200 or 300 people, and 6 m. below this was a rather better one named Bernalillo. This is doubtless what Pike charts as "S Bernilla 500." Bernalillo is present name of a station of the A., T., and S. F. R. R. Simpson relates that when he passed Sandia in 1849 he noticed in the space of a mile northward from the pueblo some 60 or 70 piles of stones which were said to mark the places where as many Navajos had fallen in battle with the Pueblonians some years before.
[I'-16] Old Albuquerque, to be distinguished from the present contiguous or adjacent city of the same name, one of the best-known places on the Rio Grande between Santa Fé and El Paso. In coming to this town Pike passed sites of several places now named, though none of any note—as Corrales (on the opposite or W. side of the river, whence there is a road 18⅔ m. to pueblo of Cebolleta); Alameda (where the river could be crossed to strike the Corrales-Cebolleta road); Ranchos d'Albuquerque; Los Griegos; and finally Candelaria. The word Albuquerque, or more properly Alboquerque, is the same as the name of the very celebrated Portuguese son of Mars and soldier of fortune, Affonso d'Alboquerque, who flourished in the latter part of the fifteenth century and early in the sixteenth (b. 1453, d. Dec. 16th, 1515). It is commonly pronounced on the spot Albykirky, and sometimes Albykirk. The old town was in existence about 1700, and now has some 1,750 pop.; the new one is a thing of yesterday, so to speak, but already a notable railroad center, capital of Bernalillo Co., with nearly 4,000 pop., and scheduled as 58 m. from Santa Fé. Near Albuquerque there was a ford to a place called Atrisco, whence the road led westward to Fort Wingate; while eastward from Albuquerque a road went to the Tijeras cañon, which marks off the Sandia range proper from the elevation S. of this cañon called Monte Largo. Tijeras cr., when it runs, falls into the Rio Grande about 8 m. below Albuquerque. Sandival, a place that appears on various maps, was Sandival's hacienda, a couple of miles S. of Albuquerque, on an upper and dryer road than the one usually taken southward.
[I'-17] No crossing of the Rio Grande is indicated on Pike's map anywhere along here, his trail being dotted continuously on the E. side of the river. But it is quite certain that he crossed a little below old Albuquerque to Atrisco. There was here a ford, regularly used when the water was not too high. The railroad now crosses some miles lower down, between Isleta station and Isleta. Atrisco was a very well-known name, in consequence of the ford, before the days of the railroads, but is hardly to be found on ordinary maps of to-day. When I first crossed the Rio Grande, June 23d, 1864, our outfit was ferried over some 20 m. below Albuquerque, between places called Los Pinos on the E. and Las Lunas on the W. "Los Pinos" is short for Bosque or Alamo de los Pinos, as they called the large fine grove of cottonwoods there, but I do not think there were any pines. A couple of miles below was the hacienda of Mariano Chavez, brother of the unfortunate A. J. Chavez who was murdered near the Little Arkansaw: see [note10, p. 424]; M. Chavez was dead himself before 1847. The place where Pike so joyfully met the blooming Robinson is left open to question in the present text. If by the "next village" he means the next one he came to after leaving Albuquerque, this was certainly at or near the site of Atrisco. This is really the implication; otherwise we should have to go a good ways down the W. bank of the Rio Grande, to site of present Pajarito, or perhaps Isleta, at which latter place is now the junction of the Atl. and Pac. with the A., T., and S. F. R. R. The doubt is cleared away by the text of the 8th, where it appears that Pike visited Tousac (see [next note]) 3 m. from the village where Robinson was, and on the same (W.) side of the river, where the troops had been sent over night; and was then carted back over to the E. side of the river. He simply visited across the Rio Grande, as he had done at San Felipe, and then returned to continue his regular journey down the E. side. But neither of these two cases is put very clearly at first blush in the narrative.
[I'-18] "Tousac 500" is marked nearly opposite Albuquerque, at or near present site of Atrisco. What this can be, unless it is Atrisco itself, or some old place close by. I do not know. The name reminds us of Tesuque (see [note7, p. 605]), but the place here meant is obviously not that one. (See [Tousac] in Index.)