Washington City, January, 1808.
CHAPTER V.
WILKINSON'S REPORT ON THE ARKANSAW.[V-1]
New Orleans, April 6th, 1807.
Sir: Agreeably to your order dated in June, 1806, I took my departure from Belle Fontaine, under the command of Lieutenant Pike, early in July [15th]. The Missouri being well up, we found the navigation as favorable as could have been expected. On the 28th of the same month we reached the mouth of the Osage river, which we found a pellucid, tranquil stream, with the exception of a few trifling ripples, and a fall of about six feet in two-thirds of a mile, called the Old Man's Rapid. The river abounds with various kinds of good fish, especially the soft-shelled turtle [Trionyx or Aspidonectes ferox], which we took in great numbers. The banks of the river are generally formed by craggy cliffs, and not unfrequently you perceive stupendous rocks projecting over the water, out of which issue excellent springs. The most remarkable natural curiosity which I observed is a pond of water, about 300 toises[V-2] in circumference, six miles above the Yanga [Yungar, Nehemgar, or Niangua river], on a rising piece of ground, considerably above the level of the river, which keeps one continued height, is perfectly pure and transparent, and has no outlet by which to discharge.
On the 12th of August the Osages appeared dissatisfied with the tedious movement of our barges, and expressed a wish to cross the prairie to their villages, in case an escort were allowed them. I immediately volunteered my services, and we parted with the boats at the mouth of Grand river [the branch of the Osage], the spot where our ransomed prisoners were taken the preceding winter by the Potowatomies. We reached the village of the Little Osages after a fatiguing and laborious march of six days across an arid prairie.
When within a mile of the town, the chief Tuttasuggy, or Wind, desired that a regular procession might be observed; he accordingly placed me between himself and his first warrior, and the ransomed captives followed by files. Half a mile from the village we were met by 180 horsemen, painted and decorated in a very fanciful manner; they were considered as a guard of honor, and on our approach opened to the right and left, leaving a sufficient space for us to pass through. A few yards in advance, on the right, I perceived 60 or more horsemen painted with blue chalk; when the chief observed them, he commanded a halt, and sent forward his younger brother Nezuma, or Rain that Walks, with a flag and silk handkerchief as a prize for the swiftest horseman. At a given signal they started off at full speed, the two foremost taking the flag and handkerchief, and the rest contenting themselves with having shown their agility and skill. As I entered the village I was saluted by a discharge from four swivels which the Indians had taken from an old fort [Fort Carondelet: see [note41, p. 384]] erected by the Spaniards on the river, and passed through a crowd of nearly a thousand persons, part of whom I learned were of the Grand village. I was immediately, but with ceremony, ushered into the lodge of Soldier of the Oak, who, after having paid me some very handsome compliments, courteously invited me to eat of green corn, buffalo-meat, and water-melons about the size of a 24-pound shot, which, though small, were highly flavored.
After Lieutenant Pike's arrival with the boats, we formed our camp on the bank of the river, equidistant from the villages of the Grand and Little Osages, and he selected a situation for making his observations, which he did not complete until the 28th of the month. The 29th and 30th were devoted to packing as conveniently and carefully as possible the mathematical instruments and a small quantity of provisions. On the 1st of September we commenced our march for the Pawnee Republic, and entered on that vast and extensive prairie which lies between the Missouri and the Rio del Norte.
We coursed the [Little] Osage river to its source, and almost immediately crossed some of the small branches of Grand [Neosho] river, which enters the Arkansaw about 700 miles from the Mississippi. After passing Grand river, which we found to be 60 or 80 yards wide, we marched a whole day [week[V-3]] before we reached the waters of the Kansas, and were agreeably surprised to find ourselves on the bank of a bold running stream [Smoky Hill fork]. Between this and the village of the Pawnees we crossed two strongly impregnated salines. We then passed over a sandy country almost destitute of herbage; and after a painful march under an oppressive sun, over an irregular and broken surface, we arrived at the town of the Republican Pawnees on the 25th of September.
We the day before were met by a number of warriors whom curiosity had led thus far to see us, among whom was the third consequential character of the Republican party; for you must know that the village is composed of the followers of a dissatisfied warrior who first made this establishment, and the adherents of a regular chief of the Grand Pawnees who migrated thither some few years since with his family, and usurped the power of the Republican warrior. To such a pitch does this party spirit prevail that you easily perceive the hostility which exists between the adherents of the two chiefs.
Early on the morning of the 25th we were joined by a few more savages of distinction, headed by the brother of Characterish, or White Wolf, chief of the nation, who was to act as master of the ceremonies to our formal entry. Preparatory to our march, we had our men equipped as neatly as circumstances would admit. About mid-day we reached the summit of a lofty chain of ridges, where we were requested to halt and await the arrival of the chief, who was half a mile from us, with 300 horsemen, who were generally naked, except buffalo robes and breech cloths, and painted with white, yellow, blue, and black paint. At the word of the chief the warriors divided, and, pushing on at full speed, flanked us on the right and left, yelling in a most diabolical manner. The chief advanced in front, accompanied by Iskatappe, or Rich Man, the second great personage of the village and his two sons, who were clothed in scarlet cloth. They approached slowly, and when within 100 yards the three latter halted; Characterish advanced in great state, and when within a few paces of us stretched out his hand and cried, "Bon jour." Thus ended the first ceremony. We moved on about a mile further, and having gained the summit of a considerable hill, we discovered the village directly at its base. We here were again halted, and the few Osages who accompanied us were ordered in front and seated in rank entire. The chief squatted on his hams in front of them and filled a calumet, which several different Indians took from him and handed the Osages to smoke. This was called the horse-smoke, as each person who took the pipe from the chief intended to present the Osages a horse. Mr. Pike and Dr. Robinson afterward accompanied the chief to his lodge, and I moved on with the detachment and formed our camp on the opposite bank of the Republican fork of the Kansas river, on a commanding hill which had been selected as the most favorable situation for making observations, though very inconvenient on account of wood and water, which we had to transport nearly a quarter of a mile.